My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[B5NUT]

So a little bit further today, but only a little.

Test fitted the bracket before it was painted.
1-bracket.jpg

However it looks like I missed a mounting point for the oil pipe.
2-bracket.jpg

So back out with the drill & welder to attach an M6 bolt to the side

3-bracket.jpg

Drilled new holes in the plastic duct & bracket that will hold them together and finally a few thick coats of epoxy. May have put it on a bit too thick as it's got a hell of a lot of orange peal (not that you are ever going to see it).
4-bracket.jpg

Also applied 2K etch clear coat to the oil cooler, I know it will take some of the performance away, but it cannot be any worse than what was fitted to the car, cannot see how that was providing any form of cooling with it full of dirt and most of the fins been corroded away. Difficult to tell from the picture but the cooler now looks very shiny Anyway the clear coat should give some protection for the alloy. Will also remove the plastic duct once a year and clean the cooler out.
5-cooler.jpg

As these adapters were undone when I was trying to remove the oil cooler pipes, I fitted new seals and got rid of the rust on them and gave them a brush with rust converter and then with epoxy.
6-adapters.jpg

If the epoxy is dry tomorrow I should be able to get the cooler & pipe work back in the car, it's always good when you start bolting parts back onto the car.

[B5NUT]

So another small update.

Went to start the timing belt change today, got the belt off and first replaced the idler pulley

So then took the old belt pulley off and it looks like the seal had been leaking, how much I'm not sure but there was fresh oil around there.
1-seal.jpg

So a new seal was fitted, not as easy as it sounds as the old seal gave up a hell of a fight, but eventually it was removed..

So with that little job done it was time for the water pump. ******. I've been sent the wrong pump!
2-pump.jpg

Now it's understandable that I have been sent this pump as Valeo claim it's for the ABY model. With the "lid" sticking up 15mm I don't believe the timing cover would fit, so have ordered a replacement which should be with me tomorrow.
3-valeo.jpg

So if anyone wanted to buy a 3B Valeo water pump for £35 posted let me know.

Still it gave me the chance to clean, strip, de-rust and paint another sodding bracket, there's more brackets on this car than binky, and they are all covered in crud & rust
3-bracket.jpg

[tango123]

febi part no for the water pump is 01092

[B5NUT]

Thanks. I have one on order, which should arrive tomorrow (I hope).

[sidrick]

Loving the updates

[B5NUT]

So a little further today, correct water pump arrived so I was able to get on with the cambelt. Started the day with the car looking like this and to be fair is still does, except it has the water pump, belt, lower belt cover & bracket on as well as the oil cooler.

1-front.jpg

Belt on with the painted bracket & cover, still cannot refit the pulley as I need to repair the thread for the PAS bracket, for which the parts should have turned up today, but won't be with me until tomorrow.
2-belt.jpg

Finally fitted the cleaned up oil pipes, oil cooler and bracket to the car.
3-oilcooler.jpg

With the oil pipes being off the car for so long I decided to drop the oil & change the filter. Just need to refill the coolant system now.

Also I hope the alternator case is ready tomorrow, so the alternator can be rebuilt and get back in the car for the weekend.

Still need to find an a aircon pump, and either get replacement aircon pipes or fix the ones I have.

[B5NUT]

So today I completed the rebuild of the alternator, as I got the case back from the welders and the rebuild kit arrived. The old bearings sounded like a pair of maracas, it was surprising how bad they were.

In the kit was a replacement slipring, which I was not going to fit as there was very little wear on the one fitted, however when pressing in the new bearing I damaged the slipring so it had to be replaced. It was a sod of a job to remove as it's glued in place so was chiselled out with a hammer & screwdriver.
1-slip.jpg

Even the top section was glued in
2-slip.jpg

New slip ring fitted and this time I did not damage it while pressing the bearing in.
3-slip.jpg

The kit came with replacement bushes but the old one are fine and have plenty of life left in the bushes.
4-alt.jpg

Complete and ready to fit into the car. and hopefully last another 100K but seeing as the bearing were shot about a 100K I'll look at doing them between 50-70K.
5-alt.jpg

Next up is to deal with the PAS bracket, that also came back from the welder after the bottom section where the bolt goes through snapped of. It's was snapped off due to this sodding bolt (Reminds me of the pinch bolt on the A4, A6 models).
6-bolt.jpg

with the support & bracket off the car it took 5 ton of pressure for the bolt to move, and I wondered why I could not move it on the car! So to solve the problem, I got a stainless bolt and painted it in 2K etch.

7-bot.jpg

Also painted the support & bracket just where the bolt goes through so to limit any further alloy corrosion.

8-bracket.jpg

Again this bolt will be checked every few years as it caused me so many problems.

Now today I got very lucky. I've used my local VW dealer for many years and the parts department have been very good and give me a good discount due to the many cars I've rebuilt over the years. It was annoying that Audi no longer allow VW dealers to sell Audi only parts, so I have to drive almost 40 mile round trip to get to TPS, and thankfully they also gave me a trade account due to the large quantity of parts I was buying from them. Last year the VW dealer gave me a load of brake pipe they never used, and told them I would be interested in buying any old nut, bolts, washers & seals etc that they have lying around and what rid of, as that sort of stuff always comes in useful .

So went in this morning to collect the 1 litre pre-mixed coolant bottles that VW now only sell (why the hell they stop selling the 1.5 litre concentrate I will never know) and they said they had completed a stock take and had a load of old bolts & other stuff and would I be interested in taking them. Said yes and they handed over this lot over.

9-bolts.jpg

Also this lot.
10-stuff.jpg

Total cost for all these parts was £0.00 Happy days, so I'm hoping some of that lot will help rebuild the rear suspension.

[Tractor Dave]

Wow! Nice box of bolts. They will be very handy

[Nuvo]

Nice going on the freebie spares parts haul! Can you tell us the supplier and price of the alternator rebuild kit you bought please?

[B5NUT]

Yes this was the kit I purchased https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254121460290 There is also a very good post here https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member...01#post2078101 for the information on the rebuild, it's why I never bothered doing much of a post on the rebuild.

[B5NUT]

Tomorrow's job will be to start stripping the center lock carrier
1-topbit.jpg
Yet more crud & rust to deal with.

2-rust.jpg

3-rust.jpg

Also going to remove the left & right lock carrier tomorrow as they also look scabby, and it's one of the first things you look at when opening the bonnet.

[B5NUT]

I've not posted any further update on the painting of the wing, as I was hoping this would have been completed last week. However the base coat went very very bad, and I had no idea why but I was getting far to much paint on the panel and got too close to the panel in a couple of points and ended up with strips in the base coat. This would not have been a problem if it was a solid colour but shows up on the metallic colours, also had some sanding marks that were visible so it was at this point I gave up and left the wing for a few days as I was a bit annoyed and did not understand what had gone wrong!

Yesterday I went back to the wing and sanded down the base, and to be fair it had dried OK, but was still patchy in a couple of places. Today I had another bash at the base coat, was about to fill the gun again when I noticed the wrong tip was fitted. I had left the 1.8 tip (Used to spray primer) on the gun and I wondered why I getting a horrible result (What an idiot)! So fitted the 1.4 tip, cleaned and tacked the panel then sprayed on the paint. With the 1.4 tip fitted the result was soo much better, so left that to dry for 10 minutes then put on 4 coats of clear with a 1.3 tip, and was happy with the result. There are a few bit of dust stuck to the top of the clear but a rub down with 2000-3000 and a good polish should remove them.
1-paint.jpg

Only a very slight orange peal that I will need to remove
2-paint.jpg

Least now I know I can move onto the slam panels and I will get an OK result, as long as I remember to change the tip!

These are the paints I used to paint the panel.

Rear of the panel was done on epoxy from rust.co.uk.
Bear metal was was primed with Lechler FIX-O-OUR EC
Primer was Lechler Green-Ti primer
Base was Lechler BSB Base Coat
Clear was Lechler Macrofan 2000 HS Clearcoat.

[simons2]

Wow , excellent finish

[B5NUT]

So I have a question for anyone that has done the cambelt change. Would you expect to be able to achieve the 450nm without a bar on the end of the torque wrench or would it be very hard work without? Length of the torque wench is about 85cm.
1-torque.jpg

[newsh]

So I have a question for anyone that has done the cambelt change. Would you expect to be able to achieve the 450nm without a bar on the end of the torque wrench or would it be very hard work without? Length of the torque wench is about 85cm.
1-torque.jpg

450Nm would equate to about 55kg at the end of your torque wrench so, (unless you’re a big bloke) that’s a fair proportion of your body weight. Easier with a short length of scaff tube.