My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[struikie]

Timeless looking wheels imho.
I also have the PS4 on my 80. And PS4s on the BMW (410bhp 335d).
Really nice tyres. The PS4s has incredible grip, even in the wet.

JW

[B5NUT]

Quick question. I've check the timing and turned the engine over by hand several times and it's all been OK. Now that I'm looking to start the engine I wanted to spin the engine on the starter but again not have it fire up. Can I just pull the fuel pump relay and then turn it over.

Looking at the layout that is the fuel relay
1-pump.jpg

[tango123]

or pull the fuel pump fuse

[B5NUT]

So number 13 should do the trick as well.
2-fuel.jpg

[tango123]

thats what i do after she’s been standing all winter, can take the plugs out too if you want it to turn over easier....

[B5NUT]

Few jobs done today, headlights back in the car, VAC pipe fitted, ECU & battery back in the car. Turned the engine over with the fuel pump fuse removed and all working fine. Fuse back in and the engine fired up straight away with no fault codes on the ECU

One error has come up and that as soon as you turn the key I get a brake warning light and 3 beeps, after a quick read up this could be the BOM but not 100% sure. I've not driven the car and the battery has been disconnect for about 4-5 week, but there are no fault codes on the ABS unit that VCDS can see,

[SteveH]

If it's the bomb the light will go as soon as it's pressurised.

[newsh]

Maybe brake pad wear warning connector, these are notorious. Especially as you’ve had the front legs off.

[newsh]

If it's the bomb the light will go as soon as it's pressurised.

Have you bled the system by going full lock each way a few times?

[B5NUT]

Maybe brake pad wear warning connector, these are notorious. Especially as you’ve had the front legs off.

I don't have any pad connectors on my S2 unless someone removed the harness. It would be handy, as I've had it on all my Audi's over the years..

[B5NUT]

Have you bled the system by going full lock each way a few times?

Not yet, I've only ran the engine for less than a minute. I just wanted to make sure it started, and I had no ECU codes like the one I was getting for N75 valve.

[B5NUT]

If it's the bomb the light will go as soon as it's pressurised.

How long would it take to get to pressure, also what pressurises the system? I need to read up on the bomb as I have very little knowledge on this system.

[Tractor Dave]

If the car hasn't been run for a while the bomb slowly looses pressure. It should build up pressure after running for about 30 seconds. As Newsh says, bleed the system by turning steering lock to lock. Best with both front wheels off the ground and engine running. After this, check pas fluid level. Don't initially fill past the lower line of it might overflow. It should end up between the two lines.
Next time you start the engine you shouldn't get a warning. If you do, the bomb isn't holding pressure. You can get it refurbished. I did a thread recently. No pad wear warning on mine.

[johne]

The brake system hydraulic pressure isn't checked for the first 30 seconds after start up by the warning system to give the system time to pressurise. It's checked by the pressure switch on the side of the brake servo. It's pressurised by the second pump on the back half of the power steering pump.

The combination of a tired bomb and worn hydraulic pump means that it routinely takes more than 30 seconds for the pressure to build up after a long period of non use. Once you start to use the car regularly you'll find it's unlikely to alarm. Time to worry is if it hasn't gone away by 1 minute after start up or comes on anytime after that during normal braking.

The bomb itself is just a hydraulic pressure reservoir.

[johne]

No pad wear warning on mine.

Wheels need to be straight ahead to check the level, anything off centre will give you a false reading.