Pearl white coupe revival

[steve briance]

Yeah, it's not an audi but look how clean the surface is, right up to and into the corners etc. Hoover up /blast out the media and then straight on with epoxy primer.

[ottawa coupe]

Well, first quote for blasting came in. $1600 or ~£950.

for the bottom only.

I'd consider that for the whole car but not just for the bottom.

Hoping for a lot better than that!!!

I'll try a multitool. It's not terrible a task with the wheel on the open bits, just slow. It's the the corners and tight bits that are killing me. I may go to the extremes in those areas with my torch and burn it out. I will have to redo cavity wax anyways from welding so i don't think it'll really add to the time? I could just torch all of it out but even with my respirator (that i'm wearing as it is) i think that method would shorten my lifespan lol.

I could just be bitching because i am in the rear subframe/trunk area which is very complex. I was fine when i was doing the floor....

Thanks for the suggestions guys, i really appreciate it.

I do have shop air and a spot blaster.... i think i do have everything in need, it'll just take time.

[ottawa coupe]

So, media blasting is out. Peoole want stupid money or are not confident they can get thru the undercoating without damaging the underlying metal.

I got a more aggressive wheel and it went quicker. Unfortunately, the bearings in my grinder got weebly wobbly so i thought better of using it anymore lol. It has been replaced and will get back to it tomorrow.

Been putting some thought into the engine conundrum and i put this to you guys for input:

Up to now, been focusing my search on port injected, belt driven, 40v engines and donor cars. So late d2s and c5s. They are hard to find in these parts, letalone for good prices.

On the flipside, d3s and c6s are a dime a dozen.

Am i being short sighted? Get a chain motor that doesn't rattle and live life? I have converted a port injected car to fsi and it wasn't tooooo terrible, is that a bridge too far in a b3?

Thanks.

[ottawa coupe]

Been knocked on my butt with a,nasty cold for over a week but was able to get back on it. Not a huge amount more grinding done but i have cut a few brackets out and they're in a vibratory tumbler with copper slag media. They should be pretty much clean bare metal in a day or so. Going to make a consious effort for the moment to not cut or grind anymore. I need to try and weld up some holes asap. I fear if i don't, in a few days i'll have a Coupe shaped piece of swiss cheese and will not know how to get back from there lol.

Some of the welding is gonna be a bit annoying, hoping to limit the number of panels i need to make.... so i am going to try and just close up some of the holes.... the rear seam where the trunk floor meets the rear panel is especially bad...

pray for me!!

Once i get these small holes done and the cut brackets back on, i will tackle the drivers sill replacement.

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[Tom_]

Damn, you did an amazing job so far. Keep going, you are making this car shine again.

[ottawa coupe]

Officially at the omg what have i done stage....

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For those facing what i have wrt rotten sills, here's a good pic of the differences of the internal structure between coupe and cabby

20231119_102747.jpg

And the 2 gaps that i need to fill.

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These two holes are filled by specific cabby parts that are not available on tradition when i looked. I will have to make a part from scratch for the door opening, i will cut up and bend the old sill for the lower part. There is only one rusty spot on the car to fix in the rear arch which is nice.

[steve briance]

Wow, the cabrio sills really are pretty substantial in comparison!

[ottawa coupe]

Lolyup, almost triple the weight! 24lb vs 9 according to an old bathroom scale...

[ottawa coupe]

Baby steps.... got the rear closure panel done and the filler on the sill in the door opening. All the holes in the floor welded in too. Gotta grind all the welds flat and start working on the big filler panel on the bottom side. Found another difference in using the cabby sill. The lower a pillar is a different part number and from the rough diagrams in ilcats, they are different. The result is where the a piller and sill meet, there's a mm or two gap. So no spot weld possible there. I'll build the area up a bit with weld and then a big hot seam weld for the 30 or so mm instead.

I am hoping to have it all welded in by the end of the weekend at the latest.

[ottawa coupe]

Sill is clamped in place, a few little details to clean up and welds to fix..... and the about 5547 holes to drill... should be welded in this weekend....

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been looking towards what else i can accomplish timewise and what i can afford to do this winter. Looks like the most i can get done would be to get the subframes cleaned up, rebushed and installed and the same for the control arms. One other thing may be the 5x112 conversion.

I understand the rear b5 hubs and brakes bolt right up which is nice but i am frustrated with not exactly the clearest answers for the front.

I have done some research and i am wondering is a pre facelift b5 2.8 front hub and brakes is a viable solution. They both use the same bearing and i did read somewhere about someone using some sort of 5x112 hub upgraded b5 brakes at some point.... so i'm wondering if the front one goes in as well??

I would like to avoid the "proper" s2 conversion because the parts are impossible to get and silly expensive here....

Essentially wondering if anyone has successfully found an off the shelf north american spec 5x112 solution. I've so far been focusing on b5 because the parts are widely available and dirt cheap....

[Jaswan]

Hi mate.

Your progress is looking good. You are certainly brave!

For 5x112 - my car is (was) also a CQ.

As you say the B5 Quattro rears are exactly the same as the stock hubs apart from having 5x bolt holes. This is what I am using on mine.

For the fronts I have V6 hub carriers and (I will try and confirm this) I think slightly modified C4 front hubs which match exactly to standard S2 hubs.

But then your next issue will be what drive shafts (Axels) to use depending on what gearbox you use.

Regards

Jase.

[ottawa coupe]

for the hub carriers, i am getting (very) confused. the only number i can find on my carrier is 895257b. i assume that is shortened from 895407257b given the nomenclature i'm seeing on ilcats. that said, that exact number doesn't show a result anywhere. closest i can get is L. i know for sure though it's an 82mm bearing.

is there a geometry difference i need to look into?

i found the thread i mentioned before regarding the front b5 brakes. i was wrong about the combo. sorta.

ABY B3 90 Quattro - S2Forum - The Audi S2 Community

looks like he's got the same hub carriers as me and just redrilled the 312mm rotors. not sure how i feel about that. but it would seem to me that if i wanted to go that route i need the proper s2 hubs. that said, because the calipers bolt in on the back side of the mounting ears on the carrier, i could theoretically get a more readily available 5x112 hub and simply space the caliper inwards?? now, one thing i DO have is a pair of urs6 hubs. so i COULD modify those, as much as i don't want to..... but really, when was the last time someone properly screwed up a hub dealing with bearings???

for the moment i will keep searching the internet for info. i suppose the next move will be to fire up my crappy 3d printer and print up a bearing and then get some hubs and rotors and stuff. if i choose carefully on rockauto, i can experiment cheaply enough.

[Jaswan]

I think the V6/S2 front hub carriers are the same part number if that helps?

[Jaswan]

I have found some photos of the difference in offset.

[ottawa coupe]

Cool, thanks for the pic. To confirm, those are b5 front hubs (if known?)

Someone on this side of the water is selling a partial swap which is why i am going down this rabbit hole right now. I've got some questions in to him right now so we'll see how it works out.

All of this said, i looked on spareto for the s2 front rotors and they are certainly available and cheap. Shipping essentially doubles the price though but at $250 landed on my doorstep, i wouldn't say that's a complete ripoff....