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Not gonna lie, tomorrow is the first nice day of spring here, mid teens and sunny. I am having quite a moral dilemma about calling in sick tomorrow morning lol
maybe someone here knows me 7.1.1 well.... trying to get the tach working. one of the documents i started with a while back was nollywood's pinout of an ART engine on here. mine is an AYS. however they are both 7.1.1 and i found it to be 99% the same as the wiring diagrams i got from erwin. one thing that is different though is that in his ART pinout, pin 37 is supposedly a tach output. on mine, pin 37 is empty. i took this to mean that the tach signal goes thru canbus as the s8 cluster is a canbus connected module.
are all me7.1.1 ecu pinouts the same? am i able to connect pin 37 from my ecu to the tach and all is good? am i being naive?
Thanks, it'll sound better when i get the exhaust sorted. I've put this aside while i clean up the yard for the spring that has finally arrived. Probably another week till i get back on this. Exhaust and a few wiring fixes should complete the big issues. I need to make a fan shroud, get a second fan and deal with the ac plumbing.
I found some aftermarket black leather/cloth houndstooth seat covers for a not terrible price thinking about pulling that trigger. Part of me wants to get the quattro script fabric from tradition but i have a feeling a professional retrim is far outside any budget i would be comfortable with.
Got a few mins this evening to hang the cac exhaust and see where i stand. It's nice having the hoist i must say!
The cac goes from 2-1/2" to 2-1/4 where it is cut. My downpipes are 2-1/4. The plan is to make my merge out of my existing 2-1/4 tubing and bends and weld that to where the midpipe expands to 2-1/2. I am gonna get an oe style band clamp in 2-1/2 and cut the mid pipe in order to attempt to make things servicable. That said i am pretty sure undoing the propshaft will be absolute hell. I may have to put more thought into it.
Also, the exhaust tips contact the bumper surround. I think i have the right hangars but even then it gets awfully close to the rear cv so not sure i wanna drop it. Wondering if the surround is sitting right? Seems like a pretty sizable gap between surround and bumper...
Got the exhaust connected. Will not show my work as it just welded terribly lol. Out of practice????
Anyways....the sound..... i am beginning to understand why those boomer redneck dun luv their V8s. Soooooooo deep. Deeper than those 14" subs you stuffed in the hatch of your base model golf back in the 90s lol.
Small fuel leak to sort and a wiring issue to deal with while i'm underneath and i'll be able to go for another drive. Without hearing protection this time lol
Got a few things tied up this morning and went for a toot without hearing protection this time. Didn't get past 3rd gear but hot damn this thing will get out of its own way and sounds incredible!!! I think i should work on seatbelts now lol.
Going to figure out the solution for the tach and temp guage (i need to reinstall the old mfts) as well as correct the wiring for the oil pressure light on the dash. With luck, in a few weeks all but ac is sorted. A friend has suggested simple-ish solutions for that as well as offering some tig welding help.
Goal is to have everything sorted in the next couple months and deal with paint in the fall. I am slowly resigning myself to a pro job.....with a pro bill....
I now have 3/4 of a functioning instrument cluster. I answered my own question about pin 37 of the ecu. It DOES ouptut a suitable tach signal for the instrument cluster. A nice 850rpm idle indicated and corroborated in vcds. I got the oil pressure light to turn off by putting the v6 sensor in instead. The last things i need to do is get the temp guage working correctly by putting in the mfts. That is going to be less than quick as i need to put an m14 bung in the crossover pipe. I also need to wire up the vss correctly. I read the description of it too quickly on ultra performance's website and neglected to add a 12v source to the connector .
Of course, it is a HUGE pita to get that in and out with the engine installed....
I think i am gonna attempt a rough alignment next in order to get it to drive a bit less crappy. I have a seatbelt in it too now.
Lotsa little things to tackle before i break on it and get serious about the final colour.
Been slowly working on the port for the water temp sensor. Slow because the crossover pipe is 20 years old and where i welded the port was a little crusty. The initial weld around the added port actually looked pretty good if i say so myself. Unfortunately, it turned into a giant glob because the welds would make the scabby stuff juuuuuust porous enough where it wouldn't pass a pressure test. Welding on an m14 port resulted in at least a 50mm diameter weld.
There will be no pictures of it lol.
i'll have the car back together this weekend and hopefully aiming a bit straighter. I think the next step will be to try and get most of the interior in and see what the next chunk of money tradition will get from me is as a result lol.
So i guess i shpuld be happy??? Went thru part catalogues and search probably 75 part numbers on tradition for interior pieces for the coupe. Other than various clips, i think i got 3 parts..... so my wallet is happy, i think that is the best bang for buck bill i have ever paid at tradition lol. Been a hell of a week at work so i am currently trying to find the leak in my beer bottle instead of working on the coupe....
still aiming to getting it running again this weekend and tidying things up more.
Been thinking about seat covers. you may recall i am putting boxster seats in it. The seats are tan (and utterly fried lol) thinkin bout these
got it back together and running. she sounds a little lumpy. i like it! now, this was before i found a vacuum leak so maybe more stable with more base now....
Right, not much happened this week but i have a nice long weekend now.
I got the fuel leak sorted once and for all, new hardware for the seatbelt and got the mfts wired in and i just confirmed the temp guage works properly now.
Great success, it's almost a car lol.
Going to work on getting the wheels pointing vaguely the same direction this weekend and then start focusing on the interior and paint (finally!).
Got the wheels pointing sorta the right way and went for another quick one. Yup, she's got some poke lol.
Tossed the interior at it to get an idea where i am. Probably got hantavirus pulluig the bits from the rafters in my shed.... avenge my death please. I don't think i am missing anything but it's all very dirty and in rough shape.
Ordered the houndstooth seat upholstery, gonna see if they also sell the fabric, i think it could look neat in the doorcard inserts? They need to be retrimmed anyways...
The last electrical gremlin is a weird one for the headlights. I want to use hid projector retrofits in the NA housings.... less than a 10th the cost of euros and about a 20th the cost of rs2 lights now... the issue is that when the low beams are on, there's roughly 6v at the high beam. What that means is when i hit the high beams, the solenoid to go to high beam activates, but when i turn off the high beams, 6v is too much for the solenoid to disengage. So the high beams stay on unless i turn the lights off. I tried this with 2 switches and the same. Interestingly, i tested my s6 and it's not an issue, high beams are 0v when off. Disabling drl didn't affect the results. I found a chinesium switch on ebay for cheap, maybe it'll act differently?
Anyways, gotta few things to work out interior wise and then i think it's finally time to get serious about paint.
That 6V is very strange. Sounds like there is some half of a connection with enough resistance to pull the 12V down to the residual 6V.
There is always a chance that both stalks aren't OK. You could measure if there is any resistance in the switches of the stalk.
JW
| project | 1993 Audi 80 VR6 turbo quattro |
| daily | 2018 BMW G31 530d | 345bhp 770Nm |
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