If you take it apart and look at the bore it's probably not a good enough finish and it's prematurely worn out the seal. If you can get a seal kit you can hone the bore and make it work reliably. I have a small Cecile hone for this job and follow up with Solvol on a rag wrapped round a chopstick in the drill. I've done a few over the years, original UrQ etc, latest one was front brake master on my mate's '78 Z1, a new pattern M/C that only lasted a few rides before leaking.
-
-
What a pain! In all walks now whether plumbing, electrics or cars it so depressing when the biggest cost is time that we are being forced to fit **** parts in the absence of anything else, with the worry we will need to do it again way sooner than should be necessary.Comment
-
So the new one I ordered from Pete arrived this morning. Although he is expensive, his parts always fit and are delivered very quickly.
This is the original one and fits perfectly (unlike the newer model).
The Audi rings have been ground out.
Compared to the new Sachs model. You will see that the bleed nipple port no longer sweeps back to clear the gear change bracket. To fit one of these, you need to grind a little off above the nipple. Probably made in China as it no longer stated 'Made in Germany'.
Anyway, new slave fitted and all working nicely.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Silver Rs2 Project gone
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project goneComment
-
That original slave is not for 6 speed, the bleed valve area hits the gear linkage frame. I did one on a 91 Audi 80 sport on Tuesday and it had the 6 speed version fitted but it doesn't matter.Comment
-
How much are they now? I was thinking of replacing mine while the box is outComment
-
£65 plus vat from Pete. Over 200 Euros from Tradition
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Silver Rs2 Project gone
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project goneComment
-
Reading back to post #306, those handbrake cable guide tubes look great - anyone know if they are listed for sale anywhere ? Thank you...
PS keep up the good work Dave, it's a good read !Comment
-
Hi Dave,
As usual, I'm learning lots from your work and appreciate your detailed journaling, thank you sir. Regarding front A-arm to C/V joint clearance, you may have noticed how close that is. If you wanted more, the V6 B4's ball-joints used w/the forged arms style would do it. They differ from your B3 style (last photo below) chiefly in that the captive ball of the stud is raised, providing more clearance for both the CV boot and its' outer clamp's crimp; above the arm when the suspension is fully extended.
Dave s Frnt outer CV 1 silver RS2 thread Screen Shot 2025-09-01 at 10.37.22 PM.png Dave s Frnt CV 2 silver RS2 thread Screen Shot 2025-09-01 at 10.40.17 PM.png Dave s Frnt CV 3 silver RS2 thread Screen Shot 2025-09-01 at 10.41.54 PM.png Dave s Frnt ball joint silver RS2 thread Screen Shot 2025-09-01 at 10.22.40 PM.png
Here's a thread with the different joints' P/N's and photos:
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...finitive-guideLast edited by Lago Blue; 2 September 2025, 04:36.Comment
-
Hi Lago. Good to see you on the forum. Interesting re the ball joints. The gap is small but there is no contact and I'm using the correct oe ball joints. I wonder why Audi or Porsche did it like that?Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Silver Rs2 Project gone
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project goneComment
-
Anyway, I've been busy getting the car ready for a little road trip
Watch this space
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Silver Rs2 Project gone
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project goneComment
-
On the subject of front ball joints, my car's in the same position as your's Dave - the ball joint gap seems a bit small, but there is some clearance. As I'm planning to do some resto work over the winter I took a few pictures last week and I'm getting some bits on order as we speak. I scratched my head with the ball joints as to which is correct, and I hate to say it but I think your ball joints (and mine!) are the wrong type...
Lots of useful posts on here previously (inc Lago's comments above). But from my research it seems that ETKA is probably wrong as it suggests there was a chassis break mid way through the 1995 'S' model year, but I don't think this was the case. I know there was a change point with the S2's where they switched from forged arms to pressed steel, but (I could be wrong...) I think all the RS2's had the forged arms as I happen to have an old Audi microfiche and reader & this only lists the forged arms.
Forged arms should have the 895407365A/366A 'raised' joints which have a different profile. 8A0407365/366 joints are for the pressed arms.
I have ordered some from AT, but I see Autewo also have some (and some useful pictures on ebay...)
Clearly not a major issue as both our cars are running with them, but food for thought anyhow...Comment
-
Very interesting. Thanks
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Silver Rs2 Project gone
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project goneComment
-
Did you fint the cause of the rich running? - Ignore this QComment
Comment