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Your answer is k26/27 hybrid from Hoffer, is what I can tell you for sure.The difrence on spool from my previous sms hybrid and k26/27 hybrid it is around 400rpm instead of 2500 is 2900 and a lot of torque.I am very pleased with my curent setup it is just perfect and adding water metanol injection it is gonna be the best setup for a road use you can have,list it is what I am gonna go for, no regrets!
I am in no way a turbo expert, but your slow spool doesn't sound right for a GT3071. In truth its not that much different to a MD357 yet you get a boost ramp coming in circa 2000 revs later than mine on a similar set up.
I have been advised that the GT3076 comes in sooner than you are indicating for your GT3071.
It might be worth checking your set up before you part with any money.
I have not driven a car with a GT3071 so cant be sure how it performs but it doesn't sound right.
If you talk to Craig at CR Turbo's he will be able to provide you with a wealth of experiance and knowledge.
He used to be at Turbo Dynamics and recently (within the last 12 months) went to CR. (I must say i think TD has gone down hill since, there just seems no experiance to hand) when i last spoke to him I mentioned that TD could no longer supply the MD357 he said he could spec one the same no problem.
He also said the MD357 was built solely to be a torque monster with street drivability the aim. As you said in earlier posts it may suit your needs but i would start looking at your own set up first as something doesn't sound right to me.
I am in no way a turbo expert, but your slow spool doesn't sound right for a GT3071. In truth its not that much different to a MD357 yet you get a boost ramp coming in circa 2000 revs later than mine on a similar set up.
I have been advised that the GT3076 comes in sooner than you are indicating for your GT3071.
It might be worth checking your set up before you part with any money.
I have not driven a car with a GT3071 so cant be sure how it performs but it doesn't sound right.
If you talk to Craig at CR Turbo's he will be able to provide you with a wealth of experiance and knowledge.
He used to be at Turbo Dynamics and recently (within the last 12 months) went to CR. (I must say i think TD has gone down hill since, there just seems no experiance to hand) when i last spoke to him I mentioned that TD could no longer supply the MD357 he said he could spec one the same no problem.
He also said the MD357 was built solely to be a torque monster with street drivability the aim. As you said in earlier posts it may suit your needs but i would start looking at your own set up first as something doesn't sound right to me.
Hope it helps
Darren.
Thanks, yes, I am a bit dissapointed with how it's turned out to be honest. All the figures I wanted have been achieved, but it just doesnt feel right.
I actually spoke to craig at CR and he said put the KKK hotside on and I would get arm braking torque. However, if my current housing is 0.63 and the KKK is 0.6 or similar, I fail to see what difference this would make apart from the slightly smaller a/r ratio?
Also, I'm reluctant to go back from the T3 flange manifold as it's more versatile and supposedly flows better.
However, looking at the specs of the MD357 it is quite different to the GT3071R on the compressor side;
MD357
GT3071R
Compressor cold side
0.5 AR Housing
0.5 AR Housing
48 Trim
56 Trim
52.8mm Inducer
53.1 mm Inducer
76.2mm Exducer
71 mm Exducer
Hot side
0.6 A/R KKK Housing
0.63 Garett T3 housing
84 Trim
84 Trim
55 Inducer Diameter
55 Inducer Diameter
60mm Exducer Diameter.
60mm Exducer Diameter.
So essentially the Hot side is the same apart from the housing.
The Compresor is quite different, it actually matches the spec of the GT2876R compressor, hence I was looking at that turbo. The Gt28 has a smaller exhaust gas turbine so might spool better, but looks to still be able to flow for 450bhp?
Not many people have used the GT2876R and I was wondering why not.
Anyway, you are right darren, I ought to check my setup before I spend £££
What can I check though? Maybe my intercoolers and inlet tract are not up to scratch?
With the wagner inlet and 3" piping between all intercoolers it's pretty similar to yours.
Maybe I should do a leak test again, pretty sure this is fine as I tested it all not long ago and fitted all new JCS clips.
Last edited by URquattroGus; 26 December 2011, 13:04.
From dyno graph 3500 rpm full boost is exactly what a 0.63 3071 does.
If it's too "laggy" for you, go 2.7 biturbo, also I don't know what cams you are running, but if you are not running stock cams, try fitting them.
Mine had a leak from one of the bolts that clamps the hot side housing to the main body, it hadn't come out producing a clear hole but had backed out enough to hear what i thought was a cracked manifold.
Interestingly enough mine became more "on off" when in this state, became more progressive once i had located it and tightened it back up.
What i am getting at is the smallest of leak can cause some significant side effects. I couldn't find my problem with the normal air test i had to smoke test it.
Other than that perhaps you need a little more off boost advance.
Great thread, especially the info being discussed on the turbos.
While I don't want to ruin the thread, I still think this question for DJ will be useful for others, as well as myself, to have included here, and it is regarding the different mechanism Jamo referred to on your Ur that makes your turbo boost very early and hard, can explain how it differs from the standard mapped system on an ABY ?
I think you are referring to boost control. The standard system (as we know) uses a 3 port N75 hence mapped boost map with signals from the TPS so it wouldn't apply full boost at half throttle as an example.
My system uses a 4 port N75 valve with mapped boost that is separate from the Motornic allowing me to adjust boost maps to a degree.. Naturally it doesn't communicate with the Motronic as well as the standard system but it is completely adjustable to suite your needs, which is the bit i like, i love fiddling but dont have the knowledge or equipment to map the original Motronic.
Quick summary of the Eboost 2 controller....
You can produce six boost maps and switch between them at any point i.e. different boost per gear selected.
You leave the standard spring in place, in fact i have wound my cap out as far as i can and without boost control it only produces .35 Bar.
You then set gate pressure i.e at what point the wastegate starts to open (creep) you can have this very high to produce a very aggressive map with an over boost facility. Or you can have no setting at all allowing for a very early open hence lethargic boost ramp (i use this configuration).
You then set the set point which is the highest boost limit you wish to achieve and then finally on the main maps you set sensitivity which ensure the boost stays steady.
Above are the main setting points to get it working but there are many many other settings as an example:
Over boost protection.
Water injection map (which i use)
A map that i have not used (cant remember the name....) but effectively because the system applies boost to the top and bottom of the wastegate, when your turbo runs out of puff at the top end it forces the wastegate shut to ensure you are getting every last puff.... Naturally this feature wont work if your turbo has nothing more to give.
There are numerous other features, but effectively that is the system i use which i hope answers your question...
Apologies for waffling and what sounds like a sales pitch.... its not and i know many of you wont use anything other than the standard system which i fully understand, as said i just like having a fiddle...
A map that i have not used (cant remember the name....) but effectively because the system applies boost to the top and bottom of the wastegate, when your turbo runs out of puff at the top end it forces the wastegate shut to ensure you are getting every last puff.... Naturally this feature wont work if your turbo has nothing more to give.
This is a textbook example of why everyone should not "have a fiddle"...
Obviously it is your car and your property to do with as you wish, but I would strongly advise against doing everything described in these few sentences, if you care even a bit about the engine, turbo etc...
I don't want to offend you at all, just trying to say what not to do.
Btw, I mapped Tomas' car on the N75 with Motronic today. I have stable 2.2 bar in all gears without hunting and overshoot. Separate boost controllers are for people who don't know how to map the stock system, as is seen time after time.
Imo either keep the stock system functional in it's entirety or if you are unable or not willing to make it work as intended, run a standalone.
No offence taken, you and i have had this debate before and we both agreed as to why i use it.
I also agree that there are many systems within the Eboost 2 controller that can get you into trouble, the text box you highlighted being one of them without the correct monitoring equipment in place. Which is why i dont use it or can remember its name..
Every map in my car has been set up correctly and checked for safety with the most attention being paid to the 2.2bar boost pressure.
Consequently i can switch between six different boost maps with peace of mind. My car now runs a lower boost map in 1st and 5th. 1st because 2.2 bar in a 3.9 ratio light weight Ur is to much and fifth because a small amount of surge is introduced if the boost is to high..
As i say no offence and each to his own which is what the final part of my post was alluding to
A few areas where improvements could maybe be made;
1) I have a 3" system all the way except for a 2.5 " tapered bit directly after the turbine. Surely this is adding backpressure. I think there may have been a mistake when the turbo was ordered, correct me if I'm wrong but I have the T31/T3 2.5" turbine outlet and not the 3" 4 bolt outlet.
I think because I ordered the 034 downpipe at the same time, or some mistake/I did not make things clear, they shipped me 2.5 Outlet one.
Do you think a different housing with GT 3" v band outlet and a new/modified downpipe would be good?
See old photo below;
2) The drivers side front intercooler and pipework (one of two sidemount) has good airflow to it but the exhaust manifold is almsot directly above, and the engine block is also almost next to it. There may be quite a bit of heat radiation. Maybe I could make up a gaurd of some kind and lag/insulate the pipes. Both are thick bar and plate intercoolers. To clarify the intercooler infront of and below the turbo and manifold if that makes sense.
3) The boost pipe layout can't re reduced or improved drastically from what I can make out. There are some 90 degree bends from the intercooler end plates but I think this is the only option and less sharp bends may not fit/ may make a mess.
I am going to buy an infra red thermomemter to try and work out the efficiency of my intercoolers, unless someone can suggest a better way.
The GTX2867R is still tempting, the map makes it look like the dogs b*llocks. Having said that, I would have to have a 2.5" outlet for that turbo in any case.
Last edited by URquattroGus; 28 December 2011, 18:53.
I dont think that downpipe is wrong. Its actually pretty identical to the original garrett hotsides with that funnel configuration. Dont do anything to it. No backpressure is created there IMO.
what kind of EGTs do you see (if you have a sensor) during cruising say at 3000rpm and 6th gear?
Not sure where you live but your more than welcome to drive mine to see what you think. I know how frustrating it can be...
As for the inter-cooler efficiency you can log the inlet temperature via VagCom to see what it peeks at and the difference from cruising to full boost.
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