AAN into Ur quattro, 400-450 Bhp Target

[newsh]

As Darren says, just check the boost before changing the WG and re check and adjust afterwards if necessary.

[prj]

Actually the way the wastegate preload should be checked, is the electrical connector should be disconnected from the N75 valve.

THEN do a full throttle pull, and note the boost level.

You can't do this with N75 attached, especially when re-setting the preload, as Motronic will adapt all the time, and you will get undershoot and overshoot eventually.

[newsh]

True, much more reliable way to do it.

[URquattroGus]

Well, I've now clutched at another straw somewhat...

Today I fitted another wastegate, I bought it from EFI express as reconditioned.

My existing one had some play in the shaft, and I was not 100% sure it was sealing correctly. I wondered if it was not staying fully shut etc and imcreasing spool up time and or lag.

The good thing is that I used the spring and cap from the origional wastegate, so no messing around with the spring tension and boost levels to get it as it was.

I thought I was going to notice a differences because the refurbed one had a nice tight, slop free valve guide and the old one had some play.

It's made no difference at all! at least it's one thing eliminated.

I bought the "refurbed" one without a new diapragm, so I fitted the nearly new one from the old wastegate.

The only thing I noticed between the two wastegates was that the one EFI express sent me had no seating washer on the threaded top part of the valve (sits on top of the shaft and below the diapragm)

I put the washer in (about 5mm thick) as it was in the old one and seemed correct to me. Potentially this could effect how much boost between the old and new cap due to the 5mm less or more?? I put it on as it seemed correct and spreads the load. In any case it's consistant with the old one.

I never enjoy doing up flexpipe bolts/nuts, not much space to play with!

[URquattroGus]

I am seriously considering fitting something like this: http://www.advancedvehicletuning.co....roducts_id=207

Sorry, struggleing to post link on my mobile.

What do you guys think? Less pressure drop and a simpler inlet tract...

[Jamo]

PWR chargecoolers are the shizzle and that price is cheaper than Thor racing

[prj]

Is that a watercooled IC?
Or just spray?

Watercooled IC's are not really worth it if you already have a FMIC.
All that money is much better spent on meth injection.

Also, it doesn't sound like pressure drop is an issue from what you've written.

Spend that money on a meth kit + remap, and you'll be laughing.
Or alternatively, give JP some business. I just think that you can get much more value for your money.

[Jamo]

The barrell is the IC, the rad in the pic is for water cooling

http://www.chargecooler.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=67

[quattroamm]

My mates urquattro is running over 500 bhp and it runs a xs power chargecooler, when it was mapped the guy said the inlet temps were very cool and this was in summer.

[20Vcqdriver]

My mates urquattro is running over 500 bhp and it runs a xs power chargecooler, when it was mapped the guy said the inlet temps were very cool and this was in summer.

Yep, work brilliantly, use one on mine. Neat install and keeps inlet length short too.

[prj]

Sorry, but I'd love some hard numbers.
Like for example IAT delta in a third gear pull with the same car before & after.

It is generally accepted that a water-cooled IC is good in drag racing, where you can load it up with lots of ice for a short race.
I'd go so far as to say, that it's not going to be terribly useful on day-to-day use, because all that water is going to be warm at some point, so it won't do much. For everything other than a scenario where you'd load it up with ice, it's going to be less efficient than an air-to-air fmic.
So while it is useful in some circumstances, it is being marketed the wrong way.

And if you are going to go through all that trouble, you can just run water injection, which will mean that you don't even have to change your existing intercooler, and it will give you huge benefits.

You can get a top of the line Aquamist HFS-3 kit for 600 GBP, which will give you an easy 20% boost to power if mapped properly. And even if you just run a little of it without specifically mapping for it, it'll keep your temps below ambient most of the time.

[20Vcqdriver]

No hard numbers only seat of the pants and stop watch figures. The Cooling rad for my chargecooler has its own cooling fan with temp switch so even in stop start traffic where a normal intercooler gets hot, mine keeps the same temp.
Also run water/meth inj too... just needs mapping properly to suit, though still showed an improvement without mapping

[prj]

No hard numbers only seat of the pants and stop watch figures. The Cooling rad for my chargecooler has its own cooling fan with temp switch so even in stop start traffic where a normal intercooler gets hot, mine keeps the same temp.
Also run water/meth inj too... just needs mapping properly to suit, though still showed an improvement without it

I'll reveal a secret. For the money of the chargecooler + meth injection you could have 400 hp
Instead you have 280. A 280 that will still be pretty efficient, even after you floor it on the bahn for a prolonged period, but still 280.

You technically don't even need an intercooler, if running meth. The intercooler is there, so that if you run out of meth, it's still workable.

Also, a FMIC does not really get heatsoaked in "normal traffic". And as soon as you start accelerating it starts getting cooled. So no, not really any advantage there.
And never mind about meth - where the temps instantly go below ambient as soon as the nozzles start to spray.

[20Vcqdriver]

Mine is more for experimentation in preperation for the uprated block presently in the shed....... To which will be added a few other items for similar power to the one being talked about here...:mischeif:

[prj]

Either way - the point is, water-air IC's are not very popular, and for a good reason.
Their efficiency in prolonged use is actually lower than an air-air cooler.

So for most intents and purposes, if you want most bang for the buck, stick to either an air-air FMIC or use meth.
The stock IC on AAN flows well enough for about 480hp, before it starts causing serious problems, I can't imagine it being much worse on the ABY.