3b s2 coupe resurrection

[martinws]

Looking really good man. I'm still just building my parts list up. I'll try and make a trip through to visit before Christmas for a wee look. Are you using the OEM head washer or making up bigger ones?

[Error404]

Good work Andy. I am sure the 3B and 7A blocks are made of superior material, they just don't seem to wear as bad as ABY & AANs from comparable mileage cars, from what I have seen

Are you going to get the bottom end balanced while its in bits?

[andy10v]

These old VAG engines are excellent when it comes to bore ware, my old 240K mile+ 10V engine is much the same a your motor, no obvious lip and the honing marks are still clearly visible. I have a 6A four pot that I'm using in my Golf that's also much the same, I know that had quite a hard life and covered over 200K. I expect the bore's on both are ever so slightly oval but it can't be by much as the honing marks are uniform to the naked eye.

What Turbo are you planning on using on your engine once it's built up Andy?

Good old school VAG!

I have a Volvo k24 7400 with a Porsche k26/6 hotside to go on at the moment, but the rods open up more options......

[andy10v]

Looking really good man. I'm still just building my parts list up. I'll try and make a trip through to visit before Christmas for a wee look. Are you using the OEM head washer or making up bigger ones?

Cheers man. You are welcome anytime.

Planning on using the OEM ones over the ARPs, I have read of too many damaged heads with the smaller ARP washers. If I can find where to get the SQ or similar ones for a reasonable price I will chuck them in. I think wheeljack sells the larger ones. I cant be bothered turning out that many though.

[andy10v]

Good work Andy. I am sure the 3B and 7A blocks are made of superior material, they just don't seem to wear as bad as ABY & AANs from comparable mileage cars, from what I have seen

Are you going to get the bottom end balanced while its in bits?

Yup, there is a few pictures of 200k+ 3bs in 200s in America with hone marks, only pulled apart for upgrades. Also depends how its been treated I guess.

No budget for a full rebuild, this is quick and dirty. Engine was perfect, except for some oil loss through the valve stems, leaking cam cover seal (my fault for having a frozen catch tank) and tired turbo seals. Rods are just cheap insurance, and I get to sort leaks, headgasket had to be done to up the boost.

Rough plan

Rods
Rod bearings
(Fit existing pistons/rings to new rods)
Bottom ends gaskets (sump, oil pickup, front and rear main seals)
Metal headgasket
Valve stem seals
Hand lap valves to confirm 100% seal
Various gaskets on head, em, intake etc
injector seats
turbo, aan intake, 440cc injectors etc

Possibly clean any casting marks off the ports, undecided whether to touch them on not.

Lots of other things like rack, slave cylinder, topmounts, chassis bracing etc

Don't know whether to do suspension this time, or get it back on the road for a bit.

Interior is going to be left stripped for next year, then off the road next Christmas to do a nice interior.

[andy10v]

Sump off and a rod out







Rod bearing



Rod cap bearing





Bores with an actual camera, that is not rust on the bore, just the reflection off the top of the piston.

[Error404]

Those bearings looks in fine fettle. Tip of the day: Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner is awesome at removing carbon build-up!

[andy10v]

That's what I thought, will get my old man to cast a beady eye over everything at some point as well.

Thanks for the tip, I am sure the missus will be overjoyed. I have been using petrol so far.

[Error404]

Yeah, Mr Muscle is really good for that, then I guess it was formulated to remove carbonised food & **** from the oven!
With block leave it to soak for an hour, then scrub. It will remove even the toughest sludgy residue from inside the crank case, it come up like a new casting after a couple of goes with it
You can use it on the pistons but don't leave it on too long as it might etch them. 5 minutes is enough on them to soften the carbon so you can scrub it off with a tooth brush - makes it easy to get the ring grooves spanky clean

[K Simmonds]

Sounds like you have a good plan of action there, with hindsight if I were you I'd leave the suspension refresh till after you get the engine back in and running. I made the mistake of starting too many different jobs with mine and the project got a bit overwhelming hence it taking me forever. Having two other all be it more simple project cars does nothing at all to aid progress either, but as the saying goes 'mustn't grumble'.

The inside of your motor look to be in excellent condition, really is testament to how fine a tolerances these engines were built too over 20 years ago. You've probably mentioned it somewhere in the thread already but how many miles has the car done?

I'd have thought the performance from your K26 hybrid will quite similar to my Nothelle/RS2 K26 hybrid, have you though about software yet? I guess like me your going to have to get yours live mapped unless Dimitri has something generic for that hybrid on 3B, I seem to remember he did do something with the Volvo K26 so you may just be in luck. I'm not suggesting I cold use the same software on mine as there are variables like the BRM flowed head on my car and slightly different turbos but I'll be interested to what you go for.

Good tip on the Mr Muscle Alex, will give it whirl soon on the 6A bottom end I'm building up for my Golf.

[AndyP]

Good work Andy. I am sure the 3B and 7A blocks are made of superior material, they just don't seem to wear as bad as ABY & AANs from comparable mileage cars, from what I have seen

Are you going to get the bottom end balanced while its in bits?

My 3B block also had honing marks visible and no lip @ 190,000miles, yet I know that when Mike and Vas were doing engine builds, they went through a few ABY blocks before finding one without a lip on the bores.

[andy10v]

Thanks Alex, I will go easy on the pistons.

Sounds like you have a good plan of action there, with hindsight if I were you I'd leave the suspension refresh till after you get the engine back in and running. I made the mistake of starting too many different jobs with mine and the project got a bit overwhelming hence it taking me forever. Having two other all be it more simple project cars does nothing at all to aid progress either, but as the saying goes 'mustn't grumble'.

The inside of your motor look to be in excellent condition, really is testament to how fine a tolerances these engines were built too over 20 years ago. You've probably mentioned it somewhere in the thread already but how many miles has the car done?

I'd have thought the performance from your K26 hybrid will quite similar to my Nothelle/RS2 K26 hybrid, have you though about software yet? I guess like me your going to have to get yours live mapped unless Dimitri has something generic for that hybrid on 3B, I seem to remember he did do something with the Volvo K26 so you may just be in luck. I'm not suggesting I cold use the same software on mine as there are variables like the BRM flowed head on my car and slightly different turbos but I'll be interested to what you go for.

Good tip on the Mr Muscle Alex, will give it whirl soon on the 6A bottom end I'm building up for my Golf.

I hear you, it has snowballed enough as it is, the car only came off the road to fit the turbo over a weekend , then did bodywork instead, then turbo, and here we are

I am not starting anything else until the engine is done, then engine bay stuff (rack, clutch etc), then I will take it from there.

IIRC the engine has done 170k+ish (I have swapped clocks too often)

Is the nothelle slightly faster spooling than the RS2 then?

Dmitri tuned a 100s4 with the k24 7400 on 440s and reckoned it was about 340, so 20bhp less than an rs2 with faster than stock spool. Should be very nice to drive.

Porkkiss has 320ish chips for a stock 3b with k24 7400/440s for about 300euro

Dmitri has 340ish chips for a stock AAN with k24 7400/440s for £? (I would need to swap to cop though)

Or I have 1.9 bar 3b rs2 chips I could just chuck in and hope for the best

Most sensible thing would probably be the porkkis 3b chipset, iron out any niggles, and them Dmitri if available, or drive down to Automark (about £400)

What software did your car come with?

[andy10v]

My 3B block also had honing marks visible and no lip @ 190,000miles, yet I know that when Mike and Vas were doing engine builds, they went through a few ABY blocks before finding one without a lip on the bores.

And yet more evidence of the infinite superiority of the 3B

[Error404]

I made the mistake of starting too many different jobs with mine

Sounds familiar

[K Simmonds]

To be honest Andy I don't really know what software is in my ECU, I opened it to have a look and the chips have Boost and Fuel written on them badly in Biro and there's a 2.5 bar MAP sensor in there. It hit's one bar and tapers to about 0.7 now with my revised turbo and did so before with original Nothelle unit. MRC fitted a replacement ECU and there's mention of swapping chips and messing with the ECU on the paper work I have from the previous owner. So God know to be honest. I got my Zeitronix wired up and fully working today so I may have a better idea of whats going on soon, I'll at least know if it's safe.

When I got the turbo rebuilt I had it upgraded with a full RS2 cold side and 360 degree bearing, AET said my hot side turbine was capable of powering the RS2 compressor just fine as it's only a tiny bit smaller. The proof will be in how it behaves once mapped, but AET reckoned it should spool up slightly quicker than the RS2 unit and produce a little less out right power and torque which I'd be very happy with. Guess we'll fine out quite soon I'm thinking of Automark but first I need to work out if it's going to be safe to drive there with RS2 injectors and a 7A FPR installed, going to have to fit them an keep a close eye on the AFR's.

Do you know the source of the 1.9 bar 3B RS2 chips you have mate? They could be great, there again they destroy a stock bottom end.