Audi 80 Avant

[A80Avant]

also reason why your friend is not having any quench problems is because he is using 50:50 water meth, while i use more water

[Rocco]

500 crank hp with a GT3076 0.63ar and billet compressor wheel?

[A80Avant]

yup! BUT with ported head, larger valves as well.

i think its at it's limits now!

[Rocco]

yup! BUT with ported head, larger valves as well.

i think its at it's limits now!

larguer intake and exhaust,so both? 0.5mm oversized?

with water/methanol you will brake the 500Hp barrier¡¡

and the stock 9:1 CR should be very good for the daily car use... all in one¡¡

[A80Avant]

compression may be higher but my combustion chamber has been reworked and it may be making a difference in regards to knock, as i dont have any at the same timing!

inlets and exhaust ports have been widened and the later not really polished that much.
My inlets look like someone has taken a grinder to them and went at it, and to an extent that is true, but there was logic behind it which i am not an expert to say any different, so i went with it regardless of initial hesitations! Inlet and exhausts are larger by 0.5mm and valve guides on exhaust are shorter as well.

I am now happy with the results!! No increased lag as increased compression negated the exhaust port widening, and the overall result is that when i compare the 2 setups, on its good days the 0.82AR non ported head vs 0.63AR ported head, the head work on the latter allowed me to gain the lost hp i would have due to the smaller hotside.

[rst]

...
How do you connect the solenoid to the pump? Or do you always have a 12V at the pump as well ?

Nowadays most pumps are fitted with bypass system. So these pumps allways work all the time, when the ignition is on. Older pumps used to controll the pressure with constantly switching on-off the pump.
Acctually most of the WM kits now availible use new style pump:
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...ew_pump_lg.jpg
Old style pump:
http://www.northerntool.com/images/p...es/2687_lg.jpg

You can see the difference on the top of the pump.

In Estonia we have winter windscreen fluid that has minimal cleaning efect , but is 50/50 mix of methanol and water. You can get a 4L canister for ~2€. So if you are useing the full benefit of WM injection then it is cheaper to run your car WOT with WM rather than without it. Because if using 50/50 mix you can run AFR to 12.5-12.8 and lean the fuel map for 30 or more %. My friend was running 32 timing with 2bar boost without never hearing knock.
So if you are using WM tank fluid level switch and switchable configs then i would say WM is the cheapest way to gain 20% of power without any risks.

[A80Avant]

i agree, only IF you are prepared to take all necessary risks and failsafes of the system.

I have replaced my pump and i dont remember if it is the new type or not. I will check, however i am not prepared to get to the lengths of increased timing and lowering the fuel to gain power this way, as i would have to pay quite a few extra $$$ to get all the safety features in place for the water injection, in case a pump or an injector fails. So far with my experience on the systems, if they fail, they do not 'let you know' instantly, unless you fill the car with more sensors and wiring for this matter.
I am not prepared to go to these lengths, and i plan to use the 2nd config with E85 if i will go for extra power.

All i want the WI to do for me is keep the EGTs and IATs lower than without it, so that on the hotter days i can still get good power AND at the same time not have to chip away the timing because of higher temperatures.
+ the fact that running higher conc. of methanol is not always good for engine parts, which can corrode faster, im not keen to go that far. I have used water/meth up to 70/30 and had nice results, so that is the plan for now. I could still have a simple solenoid from these kits and work it as an ON/OFF switch with a much simpler configuration than having to go into the VEMS wiring to control it. The entry level kits work that way. Linear controllers are for users like myself who do not use high methanol concentrations and need to get away with quenching.

Good points on the 50/50 methanol uses though! Maybe if knock control becomes operational on vems i might try to be a bit more aggressive with the timing!

[A80Avant]

Wastegate now re-fitted and Andy's temporary loaner is out. It works very well and has no significant play at all.

New controller for the water meth is also installed and now I have a full working spray starting from 0.4bar! I adjusted it from 0.5ish actually cause it seems to be able to spray quite a lot now!

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[A80Avant]

i readjusted the WM to start from 0.6ish bar and finish well above 2 bar so that not too much water is going through, but just enough. Need to test it though.

However, i ordered the 'safe injection' module from snow perfomance which will allow me to connect it to my config switch on vems, and upon a threshold of low flow, it will instantly change config to a safer non WM mode. Im getting Marc on this to see how im going to wire it and then i will have a good margin of safety to use more meth and adjust timing and fueling. hmmm...

[A80Avant]

Camshaft seal was dry!!!!! yeah!!!!

turned out that one of the allen rocker cover bolts was slightly longer and potentialy didnt tighten the cover tight enough allowing a bit of seeping through.

Bilsteins replaced with bilsteins. Although fronts were leaking badly, they still had good rebound. Rears had their bottom spring holder seized due to salt, so all 4 are going back home for reconditioning in the future.

Brian fitted a secondary set of springs i had done almost more than a year ago, which was OEM springs heat treated to 15mm lower all around. Result is that the car looks much better, handling, cannot say i see a difference, and also the problem is the car is bottoming out on a parking pole where i park it.

Temporary solution: x2 50mm PVC speed bumps which i ordered to fit so that i dont have any clearance issues. Since i am paying for them, ill be keeping them. They would be handy for any other weird case of poor clearance.

My original springs will be powder coated and i may refit them if i find the height problematic.

Top mounts issue, according to Mance(and thanks for his quick response) apparently promounts made for a different audi model most likely wont fit on an rs2. He will be in touch to get a proper set for my setup and hopefully redo the top mounts next year.

We also had a minor problem with the bambridge steering sway bars bushings, where the alloy tube was slightly longer than the bushings and that made a clanking noise while steering + gave a vague feel on the steering as well. After Brian's modification (shortening of the metal tube that the bolt goes through) they were back in business and steering is hugely improved.

Next meeting has already been arranged with Brian for the final micro adjustments,so pretty happy with it now! only left to enjoy it!

I will try and get some photos of the height now. if i decide to go back to the original springs, the current ones will be up for sale for any S2 Avant, or RS2 owner that wishes to have a lower car, but not as low as the HR springs.

[Rocco]

Glad to see your van getting better month a month

But remember ,the day you finish it you will buy a 80 competition to swap everything as last evolution

[A80Avant]

haha

that is true a dream. Needs to come true some day!

[A80Avant]

crappy phone pic, but you can see the height, as well as the offending parking pole...

[A80Avant]

And now washed and wheels sort of repolished slightly...


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[Rocco]

Have you spent the Sunday mourning washing it eh Vas?

Top looking car !