Audi S6 C4

[Duffelcoat]

its not impossible to fit a 257 if you want to fit rcl,I can dig out the info if you want to give it a whirl

Wouldnt mind seeing this too

[Duffelcoat]

Bit more done,

Wheels on, the proper 17" beasties with 255/40/17 tyres had to buy two new ones but now have all four continential tyres, rears with 4-5mm fronts are new...

Centre caps are old ones, but I have new ones that will go on at a later stage.

I am collecting parts for a later date

Engine bay nice and tidy, looks all good, but there is something missing from the back of the EGR, any ideas? It looks like a small pipe should be pushed over a a nozzle at the back but nothing there?

Fuel rail cover is broken, but new one going on tomorrow.

Car has had engine oil, gearbox and diff oil replaced.

Car is going back for rear brakehoses, new header tank (Leaking) and a few replacement sensors (Preventative) plus some other things I forget.

Probably heading towards a respray at some point...any suggestions, currently thinking same colour, but have some whacky notion of going completely different...!

Probably next year though...

Cleaned tail pipes, looked a bit rusty but cleaned up well - is this a standard exhaust trim do we know?

[moggies]

Not sure what you mean about egr, the turbo gate has a pipe connector with nothing on, thats how they are.
As far as the colour, I'm one for keeping things as near as standard, so my vote would be, dont change the colour.
Looks great anyway.

[Duffelcoat]

Not sure what you mean about egr, the turbo gate has a pipe connector with nothing on, thats how they are.
As far as the colour, I'm one for keeping things as near as standard, so my vote would be, dont change the colour.
Looks great anyway.

Arrh yes, waste gate as labelled in the attachment:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22625.phtml

Attachment appears to show some sort of tube from the back around to the left?

[macspring]

Get the trim cover for the top of the air filter. They look great, but don't come off when fitted. So makes changing the air filter slightly more awkward.

Swop in new paper air filter before fitting the cover.

Have you got the small trim at the front of the passenger wheel arch? Mine came off as well, need to get the correct / decent "glue" to stick it back on ???

Don't even think of changing the colour, too big of a job and not worth money. imho. Respray the exterior of the car by all means. Keep the extra money for other things for the car.

Looking good.

[UrS4boy]

Looking good.

As for the nipple on the back of the wastegate cap, there is and never was any hose connected to it on the 3B, AAN, ABY or ADU. Don't know why they put it there. Carry over from some 10V Audi turbo five I think but not used on the 20VT.

[Thecrispynoodle]

Looking good.

As for the nipple on the back of the wastegate cap, there is and never was any hose connected to it on the 3B, AAN, ABY or ADU. Don't know why they put it there. Carry over from some 10V Audi turbo five I think but not used on the 20VT.

Surely the upper chamber has to vent to atmosphere somehow or the diaphragm would be pushing against air as well as spring pressure?

[UrS4boy]

Surely the upper chamber has to vent to atmosphere somehow or the diaphragm would be pushing against air as well as spring pressure?

True but air *IS* compressible and a sealed chamber would become an air "spring" to which the mechanical spring could have been recalibrated, i.e. made somewhat softer. That makes no sense to us, because we actually add stiffer springs.

I smell an experiment in the air (adding cap on that nipple).

[Thecrispynoodle]

True but air *IS* compressible and a sealed chamber would become an air "spring" to which the mechanical spring could have been recalibrated, i.e. made somewhat softer. That makes no sense to us, because we actually add stiffer springs.

I smell an experiment in the air (adding cap on that nipple).

Not sure I want to be the person that first tries this :-) In theory yes it would be just additional spring force, maybe no more than is achieved by winding the spring scew down, but am nervous about effectively disabling the wastegates minimum boost level even if over boost is detected by the ECU. Remember that the other side of that diaphragm is being pushed by pulsing not continuous air pressure from the N75 so it might be easier than you think to convince that air to take an alternative route via the turbo inlet and then oh dear no wastegate control.
What's worst case scenario? Fuel cut out? Hole in my block??!!??

[Duffelcoat]

Not much to report, had a fair bit of work done at a garage, rear brake hoses and cam sensor and some other sensor I forget replaced as a precaution. Just driving car at the mo and saving for some more work...

Who knows what boost I should be seeing on the bar gauge (of the computer) on a standard URS6?

The bar gauge gets to 1.9/2.0 is this normal? Presumably this is 0.9/1.0 bar over atmosphere is that right?

I am still looking to get the power to 350bhp at some point and I want to keep the general characteristics the same, does anyone have an idea of what parts I need to replace etc to do this?

I want to pull the engine at some point and do this work in one hit, change the clutch cambelt etc and fix the rocker cover leak etc etc etc..

I am planning exhaust change and suspension change so all advice/recommendations appreciated.

Going to go for a full respray but probably not until next year and get the full underside stripped and rust protected with replacement bushes etc etc maybe later this year.

[Thecrispynoodle]

You should see 2.1 for short periods when at operating temp, otherwise 1.8 And yes that's with atmosphere being 1.0 which is what it should show with engine stopped.

[UrS4boy]

I am still looking to get the power to 350bhp at some point and I want to keep the general characteristics the same, does anyone have an idea of what parts I need to replace etc to do this?

The standard receipe to take an AAN safely from 230 DIN hp to 350 hp includes:

1. RS2 Exhaust manifold (or better)
2. RS2 turbo (or Garrett 2871, eg. from 034)
3. RS2 injectors
4. 3 Bar MAP sensor in the ECU
5. (Optional) RS2 MAF sensor
6. Remap to make the above work properly (contact prj (dmitri) or paul nugent or ??)

Info about the injectors, MAP sensor and MAF sensor in this diagram (click on the appropriate labels):

http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%20Engine%20Bay%20Device%20Map.html

[Zoig]

1. RS2 Exhaust manifold (or better)
2. RS2 turbo (or Garrett 2871, eg. from 034)
3. RS2 injectors
4. 3 Bar MAP sensor in the ECU
5. (Optional) RS2 MAF sensor
6. Remap to make the above work properly (contact prj (dmitri) or paul nugent or ??)

I got 350Hp/540nM from my UrS6:
1. Stock Exhaust manifold
2. Volvo K24 7400
3. 440cc injectors (no idea where they are from)
4.3Bar MAP for 1.7 Bar boost
5. Would need RS4 MAF (not yet installed)
6. PRJ remap

Spool starts around 1800rpm and full boost is from 2500 rpm, more or less like the stock turbo (my worn stock turbo was more laggy that that), 1.3 Bar at the limiter. If the aim is for 350Hp then this Volvo K24 is the best one around.

[UrS4boy]

I got 350Hp/540nM from my UrS6:
1. Stock Exhaust manifold
2. Volvo K24 7400
3. 440cc injectors (no idea where they are from)
4.3Bar MAP for 1.7 Bar boost
5. Would need RS4 MAF (not yet installed)
6. PRJ remap

Spool starts around 1800rpm and full boost is from 2500 rpm, more or less like the stock turbo (my worn stock turbo was more laggy that that), 1.3 Bar at the limiter. If the aim is for 350Hp then this Volvo K24 is the best one around.

I certainly wouldn't try more than 280 hp (MTM Stage 1+) without upgrading the exhaust manifold. The No. 1 and No. 5 runners on the stock manifold are not optimal at higher RPMs and exhaust temps (from more hp) and you risk burning the No. 1 and 5 exhaust valves. The OE RS2 exhaust certainly flows better than the stock AAN and ABY exhaust manifolds, as discussed in this Exhaust system post:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/196904.phtml

As I understood it, the Volvo K24-7400, while available and inexpensive, tended to run out of breath at higher RPMs.

At 440cc, those are huge injectors. Definitely not over taxed duty cycle-wise and definitely need a custom re-map to make them work.

Just my opinions. Your "mileage" may vary (YMMV)

[Duffelcoat]

Thanks for the ideas

Are these parts readily available, where is the best place to get stuff?

I plan to buy bit by bit and then once I have everything get it all done together...

On another note are these cars supposed to have undertrays? Mine hasn't presumably lost along the away, (I didn't notice ) is it worth getting it replaced?