From Audi 100 to urS4 in a week

[Dift]

Looks like I'm probably going fast and furious with my boost guage

Might have a try with the centre vent. Shouldn't be too difficult.

[hunker7]

should be easy I just think it messes the looks up

[UrS4boy]

It's definitely beyond my skill. What I meant was, I could replace all 3 gauges with aftermarket ones. ... but you get the idea.

You are missing the key point: *EVEN IF* you could find some aftermarket, white/grey-faced, true back-lit gauges, you would still have to figure out the OE circuit board and then patch in wiring to those gauges. Not impossible but not a doddle either.

[hunker7]

You are missing the key point: *EVEN IF* you could find some aftermarket, white/grey-faced, true back-lit gauges, you would still have to figure out the OE circuit board and then patch in wiring to those gauges. Not impossible but not a doddle either.

Ah understand. I thought those 3 gauges would be separate to rest of the speedo.

[UrS4boy]

Ah understand. I thought those 3 gauges would be separate to rest of the speedo.

Did you even look at post 764?

And please try not to call the *instrument cluster* the "speedo". Speedos are brand of swimming trunks and speedometers are just one component of the instrument cluster.

[hunker7]

I did but isn't part 11 the board for them 3 gauges and part 10 for rest of the instrument cluster?

[UrS4boy]

I did but isn't part 11 the board for them 3 gauges and part 10 for rest of the instrument cluster?

10 = 4A0919059M = printed circuit for models with revolution counter, check package and/or on-board computer. S4, S4 4.2L
11 = 4A1919060 = printed circuit for additional instruments
16 = 4A1919078 = base plate for clock, oil temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge

Been thinking, I think I might have the pin-outs for the rainbow ribboncable between the main board and the instrument cluster board. That *might* help you (or not). IF I can find it.

[hunker7]

10 = 4A0919059M = printed circuit for models with revolution counter, check package and/or on-board computer. S4, S4 4.2L
11 = 4A1919060 = printed circuit for additional instruments
16 = 4A1919078 = base plate for clock, oil temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge

Been thinking, I think I might have the pin-outs for the rainbow ribboncable between the main board and the instrument cluster board. That *might* help you (or not). IF I can find it.

Thanks for the info That could be very helpful, thanks

[UrS4boy]

Thanks for the info. That could be very helpful, thanks.

Or NOT:

from a previous post of mine on qW:

"Based on Bentley X62 for UrS4 and page W90-25

Colour...Function

Black.....Analogue Clock Adjustment
Brown....(+) Terminal 30 - to instrument cluster dimmer switch
Red.......(+) to Voltage stabilizer J166
Orange...(+) to Voltage stabilizer and then cluster bulbs
Yellow....(-) Ground
Green....(+) Power to Oil Temp and Pressure Gauges

But please take the above with a large grain of salt, and check for yourself."

In retrospect, what I don't see there is the signals from the UrS4 oil pressure and temp senders. Needs more investigation.

[UrS4boy]

Or NOT:

from a previous post of mine on qW:

"Based on Bentley X62 for UrS4 and page W90-25

Colour...Function

Black.....Analogue Clock Adjustment
Brown....(+) Terminal 30 - to instrument cluster dimmer switch
Red.......(+) to Voltage stabilizer J166
Orange...(+) to Voltage stabilizer and then cluster bulbs
Yellow....(-) Ground
Green....(+) Power to Oil Temp and Pressure Gauges

But please take the above with a large grain of salt, and check for yourself."

In retrospect, what I don't see there is the signals from the UrS4 oil pressure and temp senders. Needs more investigation.

Okay some more investigation. See the diagram below. 6 round dots representing the ribbon cable connector. Seem to be labeld or connected to the following, top to bottom. t, u, m, n2, p and "o". This is what I found looking at the connecting and referenced diagrams:

Letter - Presumed colour, based on the list above - Details

t - Green - Connected to T26a/12 in the instrument cluster - some links to T55/40 at the ECU

u - Yellow - connected to the fuel gauge at T26/3 but related to the clock

m - Orange - T26/11 in the cluster connector and the computer display J128/ voltage stabilizer

n2 - Red - J6 - voltage stabilizer and on to the G21 speedometer

p - Brown - connected to the instrument cluster lighting dimmer switch/clock control

"o" - Black - T26/14 in the instrument cluster as a Red/Blue wire through [459] to the other side of the clock

G8 = Oil temperature signal from sender - Black/Brown to T4b/2 and then the G9 oil temp gauge

G10 = Oil pressure signal from the sender - Black/White wire - via T3m/2 and then T4b/1

Analogue gauges like a stablized voltage, a sender signal/variable resistance ground and lighting.

It would be possible to fit aftermarket gauges in there - with a bit more work on the wiring.

[hunker7]

Great information as usual, thanks. Will make one good instrument cluster from 2 I've got, and experiment with the bad one.

[hunker7]

This would look very nice

[newsh]

you really need vacuum

[UrS4boy]

Example boost gauges that work on an AAN

you really need vacuum

Agree. With vacuum you can monitor the condition of the engine. A plain boost gauge can't do that. A boost gauge that goes to 3 bar is 1/3 useless because no normal daily driver UrS AAN will be taken over 28 psig (1.95 Bar).

Here are two that I have used and a metric one by a friend:

Autometer (white-faced, side lit)



Marshall (grey/silver-faced, true back lit)



Local 97 UrS6 owner's Greddy (white-faced, back-lit, 2 Bar with peak hold):

[hunker7]

Agree. With vacuum you can monitor the condition of the engine. A plain boost gauge can't do that. A boost gauge that goes to 3 bar is 1/3 useless because no normal daily driver UrS AAN will be taken over 28 psig (1.95 Bar).

Here are two that I have used and a metric one by a friend:

Autometer (white-faced, side lit)



Marshall (grey/silver-faced, true back lit)



Local 97 UrS6 owner's Greddy (white-faced, back-lit, 2 Bar with peak hold):

you really need vacuum

ahh, fair enough. Was trying to find something stock-ish looking