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Audi S1.5 [OEM+] - (10-valve turbo B3 Coupé)

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  • Originally posted by Nuvo View Post
    Futuras! Are they the real deal or replicas? What size are they?
    Replicas, my pockets are no where deep enough for real ones
    18x8 ET35, I'm probably gonna go with a 215/45, to get as close to stock circumference as possible.

    Originally posted by newsh View Post
    Nice!
    Thanks!


    Originally posted by Kiku View Post
    In with my experience. Really it doesn't matter if your oil pressure is 2 or let's say 1.5 or even 1 with original gauges. I struggled quite a lot when i did a rebuild on engine on the car right now. Oil pump went original NEW ect other details. Fired up the car(2 seasons ago) and oil pressure was 1bar on idle and ~90oil temp. Then changed the sensors back to old ancient ones, pressure changed at same conditions to 1.5. Defo something was wrong and when i got tired of the crap i manually checked the pressure with standalone pressure meter and it showed 1.8. Anyways going strong for 2 years for now. Realy what matthers is what does the pressure at rpm 2000 and so on. Friend of mine did whole rebuild at the same time as i did allso new oil pump ect and hi had ~1bar at idle. Go figure...

    ps: friend allso tried the spoken "shims" in or on(how to say?) pressure valve and it didnt change nothing...
    Hmm, that's very interesting and good to know.
    I think what I'll do is swap the pressure sender, and if it's still wonky check the pressure with a stand alone unit.

    I still think it's weird (and scary!) that the pressure drops with boost.
    My working theory right now is that the sender unit has an internal leak and just cant handle it, but I guess we'll see...

    Comment


    • Just a thought... when its boosting you are accelerating so is the oil running to the back of the sump and away from the pick up? On my 7A only under HEAVY emergency braking my oil pressure drops and i can only assume i have the reverse in that oil is running away from the pick up but going forward and not back. Baffles in place and oil level correct?

      Previous posts about 'low' pressure and changing the sender giving different readings are what i have found as well, I also reckon on just having a fresh oil change can increase the idle reading by 0.2 - 0.4 bar.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by steve briance View Post
        Just a thought... when its boosting you are accelerating so is the oil running to the back of the sump and away from the pick up? On my 7A only under HEAVY emergency braking my oil pressure drops and i can only assume i have the reverse in that oil is running away from the pick up but going forward and not back. Baffles in place and oil level correct?

        Previous posts about 'low' pressure and changing the sender giving different readings are what i have found as well, I also reckon on just having a fresh oil change can increase the idle reading by 0.2 - 0.4 bar.
        I used to run Castrol Magnatec 5-40, but switched to Castrol Edge 10-60 after advice from a swedish Audi-forum regarding this problem.
        It made a tiny bit of difference (like you said about 0.2-0.3 maybe)

        I've actually thought about the oil running away in the pan, but realistically I don't think my MAAAYBEE ~240hp FWD monster could pull that off.
        Another theory I've had besides just the sender unit is maybe a broken seal on the pick-up tube? But I still don't know how that relates to boost...

        Comment


        • 2018 - Part 1

          The start of the season is soon upon us. At least for me since I'm planning to be out and rolling by the first of May.
          And by then everything should be done, so I don't have to (hopefully) do any work during the season.

          So I cleaned up my shop, grabbed myself by the collar, and started tinkering.
          And we'll start with my biggest problem - My questionable oil pressure.

          Last season ended with this problem and was briefly touched upon. I don't know if I had the issue in the beginning of the season and I just got lazy and didn't check the gauge, or if it's something that crept up.
          One of my goals this season is to dyno 200@the wheels (or 250 on the engine, whatever comes first), so I'd really like to have my pressure within spec...

          *****

          I bought a standalone oil pressure gauge


          When the engine was at operating temperature I had some... Interesting results.


          I think something else is up with this though. Maybe had something to do with the length of the hose and the fact that I had the gauge up on the windscreen?
          Anyway, the gauge showed a whopping almost half a bar at idle ~750rpm.
          1k RPM - 1Bar
          2k RPM - 2Bar
          3k RPM - 3Bar
          4k RPM - 4Bar
          Notice the difference between idle and 1K (~0.6bar på ~300rpm)
          Bearly touched 5Bar @ 5-6k RPM

          But during my very brief testrun (summer tires in the snowy hell of Sweden) at least this gauge didn't dip during boost. But this just confuses me more.
          Now I have 2 gauges that shows a lower result than spec, but one of them dips during boost for some reason? I can't explain that...
          Doesn't really matter though, the results are the same - a lot of work.



          Apperantly I didn't change the gasket last time I was here? It was old and stiff, but it didn't appear to be leaking.
          I was kinda hoping this would be the problem, because it all made sense in my head. I don't want to swap the gasket and hope for the best, because chances are I'll have to do it all over to get to the pump, which would be the next step...


          I made sure to check the pickup and cleaned it up.


          *****

          Right now it looks like I'd tear of the front of the engine and check out the oil pump.
          I got several pumps laying about, and one I know gave perfect pressure on the last engine. But it's just so annoying...

          Comment


          • Do you have hydraulic tappets on your engine? Wouldn't they be tapping at that low pressure? Oil light coming on at idle? This is all very strange indeed, i shall be watching what happens

            I've got a fuel pressure gauge that looks similar. You have to purge the air out of the line to the gauge as otherwise you are measuring the pressure acting on the air in the line and we all know air is compressible. I presume they put this in the instruction to avoid dodgy readings.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by steve briance View Post
              Do you have hydraulic tappets on your engine? Wouldn't they be tapping at that low pressure? Oil light coming on at idle? This is all very strange indeed, i shall be watching what happens

              I've got a fuel pressure gauge that looks similar. You have to purge the air out of the line to the gauge as otherwise you are measuring the pressure acting on the air in the line and we all know air is compressible. I presume they put this in the instruction to avoid dodgy readings.
              Yes, I do have hydraulic lifters. And yes, they tap, but they always tapped when the car has been standing for like a week and quiets down after a while.
              No oil light. But last season I had reason to believe the light didn't work, can't remember if I investigated that further or not...

              This gauge was actually designed to always stop at the highest pressure, which is ridiculous and stupid for an pressure gauge. So I had to modify it (removing 2 spring valves)
              I didn't even think about the air compressing until now when you mention it. Which bums me out, because I spent a bunch of time and oil dropping the pan and now I wanna redo the test

              Comment


              • If your sump is off to get at the pic up pipe maybe this is the perfect time to try a plastigage check on the main bearings? Get the red stuff as it has the right range for these cars.

                If you find a biiiiig gap here then that may answer your question without having to put it together again

                I'd choose mains to check for three reasons; I'm sure i have read somewhere that the oil circuit sends oil to the mains first (any bits will do their worst here then) and the main bolts are not stretch and can be re-used unlike the con-rod bolts and lastly - the check can be be done easily with engine in situ.

                The running clearance range is actually quite big in the book starting at 0.0007 thou (tiny) and going to 0.006 i think as maximum (huge) I've got just under 0.002 thou which i am happy with but i cant report on the pressure this engine makes as it is not finished yet.

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                Comment


                • Originally posted by steve briance View Post
                  If your sump is off to get at the pic up pipe maybe this is the perfect time to try a plastigage check on the main bearings? Get the red stuff as it has the right range for these cars.

                  If you find a biiiiig gap here then that may answer your question without having to put it together again

                  I'd choose mains to check for three reasons; I'm sure i have read somewhere that the oil circuit sends oil to the mains first (any bits will do their worst here then) and the main bolts are not stretch and can be re-used unlike the con-rod bolts and lastly - the check can be be done easily with engine in situ.

                  The running clearance range is actually quite big in the book starting at 0.0007 thou (tiny) and going to 0.006 i think as maximum (huge) I've got just under 0.002 thou which i am happy with but i cant report on the pressure this engine makes as it is not finished yet.
                  Yeah it's in the back of my mind. And yes, if that is the reason for the issue it would be a good opportunity and it would save me time.
                  But as I see it, if it comes to that my whole year is ruined, so I choose to be blissfully ignorant as long as possible.

                  Comment


                  • 2018 - Part 2

                    So I went out to my workshop today ready and amped to get the old oilpump off the engine so I could take a closer look at it.
                    But halfway through I ran in to another amazing problem...

                    *****

                    This seems like an unreasonable amount of oil in the intercooler after just one season
                    There's trouble brewing...


                    **** me.
                    Guess I'm doing this instead ...



                    Tighter than the devils a55h0le



                    Ugh


                    *****

                    As far as I'm aware, this is the same K24 that the S2 uses (but without the small port on the compressor housing, mine's in the elbow instead)
                    Is there any reason for me to switch to another/bigger turbo if I'm just aiming for 250isch hp? If so, which would you guys recommend?



                    During the weekend I'm gonna order a bunch of parts, a new turbo wasn't really on that list. But hey, I don't seem to have any choice anymore

                    Comment


                    • That's unfortunate, What's it been eating?
                      91 Modded 3B
                      14 A6 Avant Black Edition

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by SteveH View Post
                        That's unfortunate, What's it been eating?
                        No clue actually. Whatever it was it had to make its way pass both the airfilter and the fuel-measure-disk-thingy. Or it got in through the BOV maybe?
                        I haven't got the slightest

                        I got wind of a guy from Norway that does modded KKK turbos. They're a tiny bit bigger to make room for billet turbines and 360° ballbearings.
                        Cost about 600eur, seems like a fair deal. It's either that or some random second-hand one. Because I'm imagining that a brand new one is way WAY above my wallet

                        Comment


                        • For 250cv use the same k24/7000.

                          photobucket SUCKS
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                          Comment


                          • 2018 - Part 3

                            New weekend, new energy
                            The only thing worth doing this weekend is what was suppose to happen LAST weekend - Removing the oil pump.

                            *****

                            A bit of trouble with the crank-bolt, but at last.
                            I can't see anything special right off the bat...


                            The only difference I can see is this little markings on the outer cogs.
                            The current pump has a triangle that's set one spline -before- the inner marking. While the "new" one has a square set one spline -after-
                            It would be nice to know if they have some meaning.



                            I'm gonna clean up the "new" pump a bit and swap the crank seal.

                            *****

                            A couple of my packages arrived though!
                            A new BOV. Dual-piston that's supposedly much better for cranky fuel systems...


                            And a turbo-hat. Nothing special, but when the manifold is directly under the intake...


                            *****

                            The rest of my stuff should trickle in during the week and we should be putting stuff back pretty soon.

                            Comment


                            • Don't afraid for the turbo's hotside?
                              photobucket SUCKS
                              sigpic

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                              • Originally posted by M_GORDON View Post
                                Don't afraid for the turbo's hotside?
                                Not really. It's not uncommon for turbos to glow red hot after hard driving, and that's something that I've never had happen with my car.
                                So even with the cap I don't think I'm really 'pushing the boundaries'. I will however be better at letting the turbo cool down properly before shutting it off or setting up a turbo-timer

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