Refurbing Audi RS2

[ColonialNomad]

With a new subframe and wishbones the only thing thats left is the little bit of adjustment you get between the subframe and the chassis rails.
If they cannot get enough adjustment then it might be worth looking at the rail and elonggating the subframe bolt holes slightly to get that adjustment. Or using subframe bushes with offset holes to correct the problem.

The coachworks place didn't recommend elongating the holes, it might let things get loose over time. They had another look at the car and reckon that it can be sorted but it'll involve taking everything off and exposing the chassis fully so that it can be inspected for extra buckles. I was only half enthusiastic about that on safety grounds. So another option would be to find another front end for them to cannibalise and weld onto the bulkhead.

The coachworks were a little apologetic about not getting the car to where they wanted to but it actually handles a hell of a lot better with the new subframe. Doesn't pull to the left like it did after they finished the stretching.

[ColonialNomad]

OK so this week I pulled the trigger on the air brake ducts and engine undertray (ouch). I plan on getting them 3d scanned so that, if any some point in the future they end up getting ripped off for any reason, I can have parts 3d printed (assuming the cost of the tech goes down, which it probably will). I can't rely on Audi Trad to always have parts available.

The car handles a lot better with the new sub frame but will still consider getting new front chassis rails - maybe before October. Unfortunately the seat bolster has now given way on the right side of the drivers seat so will need to get the seat stripped and frame sleeve welded.

An issue that really bugs me at the moment is that the battery still isn't disconnected from all the ancillary parts when the ignition is turned off. All it takes is for the wipers to be left on after the ignotion is turned off, or (more commonly) my three year old presses something while mucking around in the front and thats the battery drained. Simple solution is to ban the three year old from the front of the car but I can't do anything about my own incompetence. It was something overlooked by Four Rings when I left the car with them.

My current contract finishes in November so I may have to put refurbing on the backburner until I find other employment.

[macspring]

I feel for you regarding the alignment of the front wheel, particualy so as you are dependent on others to do the work for you.

Blanks of these aluminium subframe bushes, shown in the first photo in the link below, drilled to offset / 'realign' your subframe into the 'correct' / desired position maybe an 'inexpensive' way forward ?

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60977

While it may not be possible, hove you checked that the hub and the shock are perfect and as they should be and they are not contributing to the cause of the problem, or some other smaller part.

If the front bumper is removed and the air box and turbo and driver's side chassis leg heat shield it may allow the driver's side chassis leg to be examined and measured without taking the whole front of the car apart leaving just the two chassis legs sticking out.

Right now I can't recall if the engine might need to come out for any cleaning or refurbishment work ? Not sure about the gearbox and clutch either ?

The idea of cutting off one or two of the two chassis legs, and welding on 'new' ones is a step too far imho, and should not be necessary, even when the other points mentioned above and any other such possibilities have been fully checked out / ruled out. It really is the doomsday button imo.

It needs to be brought to a decent body repair shop who care and have the right gear and staff, distance shouldn't be the overriding concern. Locating such a place will need care and will be time consuming. Other people's recommendations should not be fully relied on without other cross checking and referencing.

Just my tuppence from a distance.

Getting it resolved will be worth it in the end, but sounds like it is going to still take more money and time.

Is there any history of the chassis number / registration number being in a crash / damaged with previous owners insurers / the Audi dealer network's records. ?

Remaining patient / stoical / philosophical should help you complete the road you're currently on hopefully with a bit less anguish for you.

Don't set yourself any finishing deadlines, it'll be done when it is done. You only want to do it once.

Best wishes.

Will be watching for updates / hopefully positive progress in due course.

[newsh]

If the chassis leg was bent then the new subframe wouldn't have fit. ( I think I remember the subframe was changed??)
Really needs to go on a jig, QC have one, they sorted out my RS4 no probs.

[ColonialNomad]

If the chassis leg was bent then the new subframe wouldn't have fit. ( I think I remember the subframe was changed??)
Really needs to go on a jig, QC have one, they sorted out my RS4 no probs.

Thanks for your support Newsh - it's been on a jig with a reputable coachworks and pulled without removing any parts (including panels).

[ColonialNomad]

Blanks of these aluminium subframe bushes, shown in the first photo in the link below, drilled to offset / 'realign' your subframe into the 'correct' / desired position maybe an 'inexpensive' way forward ?

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60977

It's an option that I discussed with the coachworks after others recommended the same in previous posts on this thread. They'll be looking after the car while I'm on my honeymoon later this year.

While it may not be possible, hove you checked that the hub and the shock are perfect and as they should be and they are not contributing to the cause of the problem, or some other smaller part.

If the front bumper is removed and the air box and turbo and driver's side chassis leg heat shield it may allow the driver's side chassis leg to be examined and measured without taking the whole front of the car apart leaving just the two chassis legs sticking out.

Right now I can't recall if the engine might need to come out for any cleaning or refurbishment work ? Not sure about the gearbox and clutch either ?

Hub and shocks have been measured and are OK. Clutch was replaced in February immediately before I bought the car. The engine has been deglazed but the pressurised crankcase ventilation needs looking at. Gearbox seems very sound but it seems to be CGR so very short first gear. Suspect the turbo is worn too but it's not a priority at the moment. Subframe and wishbones have been replaced.

The idea of cutting off one or two of the two chassis legs, and welding on 'new' ones is a step too far imho, and should not be necessary, even when the other points mentioned above and any other such possibilities have been fully checked out / ruled out. It really is the doomsday button imo.

It needs to be brought to a decent body repair shop who care and have the right gear and staff, distance shouldn't be the overriding concern. Locating such a place will need care and will be time consuming. Other people's recommendations should not be fully replied on without other cross checking and referencing.

Just my tuppence from a distance.

Getting it resolved will be worth it in the end, but sounds like it is going to still take more money and time.

Thanks for your support Mac. From next March, I'll have about £6k to throw at it a year if I can get another job sharpish. As mentioned above - JJA Coachworks have been doing the work, they normally specialise in italian cars.

If replacing the chassis rails is OTT, the alternative is to strip the engine out so any individual buckles in the rails/bay can be identified and worked on individually.

But in some respects new rails would restore the crumple zone integrity and there's also a balance between doing a bigger job faster and the time it would take to work smaller but at a more detailed level.

Current damage appears to have been caused in 2007 and is recorded elsewhere on this forum by the previous owner but one (AdamW)

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22731

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25666

He did much of the panel beating himself (and didn't do a bad job with panel alignment according to the coachworks). Looks like it may have never been fully sorted on a jig until now, though.

[ColonialNomad]

Brake air ducts arrived yesterday. I'm now looking for cheap(er) places to scan. Interestingly enough ASDA offer a cheap scanning and 3d printing service...but they don't "offer the service" of making the scan files available.

I'm looking into the national network of Makerspace as a potential way to scan stuff.

http://southlondonmakerspace.org/

[ColonialNomad]

Car is booked in with Ish at Quattro Coachworks at the start of October while I'm on my honeymoon. The following list of jobs is being looked at:

Detailed inspection and repair of chassis to align right hand front wheel
Repair broken drivers right hand side seat bolster
Pressurised Crankcase Ventilation: clean tubes and flame trap etc.
INvestigate why fog light switch on dash drains battery…? (Rewire ignition key socket: power off to everything apart from immobiliser and hazards?)
Supply and install boot window d pillar trims (l+r)
Install supplied undertray - 8A0863823Q
Supply and install undertray fixing kit (£62)
Install supplied metal and plastic IC ducting
Install brake air ducts
Replace ceiling light switch

Plus visting work that was missed or caused by previous mechanics:
Reconnect front passenger side window button doesn't work after door card was reupholstered
Replace missing fixing screw to shelf under steering wheel
Replace missing fixing screw to near side headlight trim
Investigate reason for headlight error message when lights turned on (lights all work)
Rear windscreen wiper doesn't work (relay has already been replaced)

Yes some of this I can do myself, but I really don't have the time with all the wedding preparations.

[gavs20v]

It's in very safe hands buddy

Gav

[Error404]

Glad you've gone with the advice given and are going to hand it over to Ish to get it sorted properly.

[ColonialNomad]

The list of stuff to look at keeps getting longer too.

We took the car out to south Kent today for a run and I noticed two things after a bit of overtaking on the M20 - the turbo was showing 1.7 bar maximum pressure - I have a vague recollection of seeing it hit 2 just after I got the car. The oil pressure was near maximum (5) but soon settled down to 4 or so after I got back in lane. Should I be getting the turbo pressure tested? I've either gotten used to it or the car seems down on neck snapping acceleration. Is the crankcase ventilation isse likely to affect either?

Also discovered the radio fascia drains the battery when left in and the window half height button doesn't function. Uff.

[jade]

It's surprising how fast you get used to it, my mine feels slow now...

[ColonialNomad]

I dropped the car off with Quattro Coachworks on Thursday. After taking Ish around the car, he didn't seem to think things were as bad with the front wheel as had been made out previously. He thought the wings just hadn't been mounted properly. That just left a whole load of small jobs to sort out...particularly with the worn out and bodged electrics:

Bring right hand front wheel back into alignment with wing
Pressure test turbo (advise on condition)
Leak test A/C system. (Advise if A/C compressor is seized).
Pressurised Crankcase Ventilation: clean tubes and flame trap etc.
Install supplied undertray and fixing kit
Install supplied brake air ducts and fixing kit
Install supplied metal and plastic IC ducting (supply fixings)
Investigate why battery drains when ignition key is removed and other components are left on (e.g. fog light switch, radio fascia, headlights etc.)
Check rear windscreen wiper (doesn't work again - relay was replaced)
Investigate reason for headlight error message when lights turned on (lights all work)
Check front passenger side window button connection (doesn't work)
Check electrical connections between alarm and locking pump. (Buttons don't pop up easily when car is unlocked)
Repair broken drivers right hand side seat bolster
Replace boot window d pillar trims (l+r - 8A9867296A 9XB + 8A9867295A 9XB)
Replace accelerator pedal rubber
Replace missing fixing screw to shelf under steering wheel
Replace missing fixing screw to near side headlight trim
Replace corroded fuel tank straps
Replace ceiling light switch
Repair drivers side mirror
Investigate leak by water sensor
Install bonnet cushion bolts

Overall he and his brother were pretty impressed with the car...it's nice to have some good news for a change.

The other blue RS2 in there looked like a beast with the 18“ alloys. Ish said it's owned by newsh!

[johnboy 3169]

Hi Steve,

Hopefully when you get back from your honeymoon Ish will have sorted your car for you mate.

It sounds like your biggest and most costly job could just be down to wing alignment (hopefully)

It will be worth it in the long run you will have a properly sorted car you can be proud off and have loads of fun in it again

Hope you have a great honeymoon mate

[macspring]

Haven't reread the thread from the start recently, but maybe text Ish and ask them to relay the fuel pump, assuming the current pump is fresh, and doesn't need to be replaced.

Enjoy your honeymoon, hopefully it will feel like a second one when you get the car back.