80q b4 2.2 20vt project

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Thuppu
    replied
    Got confirmed that the 1.8T IAT sensor is the right one. The old stock PTC sensor won't work with this ecu.

    Leave a comment:


  • Thuppu
    replied
    It seems that what shows up in the log depends of the divider. If using Divby3 then there is 27(54) spikes shown, but when using Divby27 then log shows only 5(10), Divby9 show 15(30).

    There is a couple of things that maybe was wrong.

    First I thougt it may be the hall dizzy, turned it 180 degrees. But in the end I turned it around so many times that I'm not sure which way it was to begin with.

    Second was that I maybe had the reference tooth table wrong with the divby27. I changed to divby9 and then I relised that there is the referense table. I don't know how this affect..? Now using divby9.

    Third is that the engine was cranked so much that there was propably quite much fuel in the engine that helped it to fire on. Will see tomorrow how it starts again cold.

    Leave a comment:


  • Grillage
    replied
    Nice - looks like you got it squared away!

    Leave a comment:


  • Thuppu
    replied




    Leave a comment:


  • Grillage
    replied
    On the Log, the blue lines should be the teeth on the flywheel, the white line is the camshaft sensor and the pink is the spark plug firing (or being told to fire)

    your flywheel has 135 teeth so you should have 27 teeth per camshaft sensor line. Those will not all show up zoomed out like you are but you should also be firing all 5 cylinders between each cam sensor reading.

    Here's my old V8 cq's triggerlog:



    All 8 fired between each cam sensor line

    I think you have something set up wrong or something

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    80q b4 2.2 20vt project

    I just had exactly the same issue with a Maxxecu on my Pin swapped 3B failing to start with the AAN base map. I sent the Map to Jonus and he changed the trigger settings in some way. It may be because the hall in dizzy works differently to the one behind the cam gear? I knew the car was ok because it would start and run on motronic.
    Last edited by newsh; 13 March 2017, 09:55.

    Leave a comment:


  • Thuppu
    replied
    Thanks for the hints. Yes, bought it with full AAN harness, with no engine in place. Car has been running with stock AAN Motronic before. Crank pin sensor wires are swapped. Some fuel in the tank but quite old, car has been standing for a while. It gives spark, and seems to give some fuel as engine stumbled couple of times. Coolant temp seems to be 31C degrees in the pic and cluster rpm gauge has some movement(rises in VEMStune). There is one thing I will go and check right away. Will report soon...

    Leave a comment:


  • afterthought
    replied
    Originally posted by Thuppu

    Crank speed was something like 150rpm/min with plugs in. I'm not sure about these, no expert with trigger things, but I use Divby27 so 135tooth/27 = 5, and two crank revolutions = 10. Seems that the cam masking works, other wise there would be a secondary signal every 5 thooth.
    Blue is crank flywheel tooths, and white is crank home signal. It looks to me it is right, but as I told I'm no expert with these.

    Thanks Nick.
    Im no expert either but compared with mine it looks OK

    Leave a comment:


  • afterthought
    replied
    I have just first seen this thread today so just catching up sorry if I am asking stupid questions.
    So you bought the car non running with AAN Harness already spliced in place? Was it running before with VEMS or AAN Motronic ECU?

    If it was running with AAN you Should have the proper fuel pump relay then. If the wrong relay is in place you might have power to fuel pump but not injectors. (in that case you would see an injector pulsewidth in VEMS but its not actually doing anything in the car)

    When you first install the VEMS there are two wires that you swap on the VR magnetic sensor that reads your Crank pin. Did you recall swapping those? If not you will get extra "noise" from that signal.

    On VEMS I remember you need the ECU to see at least the following for it to trigger a start:
    *crank position
    *cam position
    *ECU needs to see 13 RPM or more

    When I can't get my car to start I usually run back to the basics. Compression, spark, fuel. Quick and easy to check for spark and fuel (if you said it stumbled once maybe you are past that point). If its the first time attempting start since the swap maybe take a look at all your grounds and stuff just to be sure the problem is not something outside VEMS. Sometimes I have to go all the way back (is there fuel in the tank ETC)



    At also could be that the car is trying to start and has the proper inputs but you are too rich or lean.
    Do your signals (coolant temp, rpm etc,) look normal? I couldn't really see from the pic. For example without a coolant temp plugged in it would default to being super rich with the warmup enrichment.


    is VEMS pulsing the injectors?
    Look at injector pulsewidth and maybe injector duty cycle. Also that req fuel number will need to be in a decent range, Req fuel on my car with smaller injectors for example was somewhere between 4.7 and 4.9. I think with bigger injectors your number is pretty close.

    Leave a comment:


  • V6quattro
    replied
    It's some years ago but I remember I also couldn't get my engine running on the stock Audi triggers so I got the 60-2 seal and the e engine is running perfect since.

    Leave a comment:


  • Thuppu
    replied
    Originally posted by A80Avant
    Whoever sold you the edu should be able to help you start the car. When we order an ECU we let our engine parameters be aware to the developer/seller and the ECU will come with everything that is needed to start and run. Only thing to do is check the timing with a gun to make sure of vems calibration. If the package was sent as you say, then it should have the 1.8t hardware. For that just choose the default IAT and it should work fine.

    As why it doesn't start speak to whoever sent the ECU. They would know how the injectors have been set up as well as triggers.

    Finally the size of the injectors is relevant to use for the req_fuel number. The deadtimes and battery compensation is secondary and if you don't know it it's not that important, as you have a default alternative. If you do find out those numbers of course it's more refined.

    Sorry, I never went that deep into making use of the trigger logs, so I don't know how to interpret them.
    I bought the ECU used from a guy who had it on the shelf for few years, never in use. So can't get any help frm there, but I know who had it before that, so will ask about the IAT/MAT sensor thing. Injector and ignition outputs are now measured and tested and all are working and give signal to right place.

    Reqfuel is calculated with 4bar perssure flow @670cc injectors, gives ~3.2 Tried some EV14 deadtimes I found from the net.


    Originally posted by pasbogdan
    Not expert on sensor signals.How many signals do you have in that log?I can see at 1 sec interval a large white signal shape shows on the graph.That should be the camshaft position.Some smaller voltage signal in that 1 sec interval marked blue should be what?The crank sensor?

    Other thinking method i can use now.If you crank speed is 200-300 rpm/min,your crank singal should be 3.3 times/sec 5 times/sec.Seems blue signal could be the cam signal?Could you log the 1 sec mark larger?Again,i am not expert on signals and osciloscopes,but maybe using logic will help you.And meanwhile an expert might have a look

    Now i see you have 9 blue signals in almost 1 sec white interval.Something i do not understand.
    Crank speed was something like 150rpm/min with plugs in. I'm not sure about these, no expert with trigger things, but I use Divby27 so 135tooth/27 = 5, and two crank revolutions = 10. Seems that the cam masking works, other wise there would be a secondary signal every 5 thooth.
    Blue is crank flywheel tooths, and white is crank home signal. It looks to me it is right, but as I told I'm no expert with these.


    Originally posted by afterthought
    Damn I hope to see this fire up.
    Where did you get the ECU from?
    Could you post a screenshot of your fuel settings ?
    You do have spark and fuel at this time correct?
    I will take a screenshot later today. Explained other earlier in this message.


    Originally posted by quattro-nick
    about the iat sensor,maybe this will help you thomas
    http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?pa...Page%2FBillman
    Thanks Nick.

    Leave a comment:


  • quattro-nick
    replied
    about the iat sensor,maybe this will help you thomas

    Leave a comment:


  • afterthought
    replied
    Damn I hope to see this fire up.
    Where did you get the ECU from?
    Could you post a screenshot of your fuel settings ?
    You do have spark and fuel at this time correct?

    Leave a comment:


  • pasbogdan
    replied
    Originally posted by Thuppu
    I'm not sure about it, but I got the sensor with the ECU package I bought. The sensor was also already modded to fit the IM.

    Now all outputs are measured and checked and these are now the right ones.



    Still no start, but a couple of times it sputtered. Does this triggerlog look alright to you?



    Don't know about the injector settings either. Dead times are not availble for these. They are EV14 580cc@3bar, and I'm running AAN 4bar fpr, so flow may be ~670-680cc.
    Not expert on sensor signals.How many signals do you have in that log?I can see at 1 sec interval a large white signal shape shows on the graph.That should be the camshaft position.Some smaller voltage signal in that 1 sec interval marked blue should be what?The crank sensor?

    Other thinking method i can use now.If you crank speed is 200-300 rpm/min,your crank singal should be 3.3 times/sec 5 times/sec.Seems blue signal could be the cam signal?Could you log the 1 sec mark larger?Again,i am not expert on signals and osciloscopes,but maybe using logic will help you.And meanwhile an expert might have a look

    Now i see you have 9 blue signals in almost 1 sec white interval.Something i do not understand.

    Leave a comment:


  • A80Avant
    replied
    Whoever sold you the edu should be able to help you start the car. When we order an ECU we let our engine parameters be aware to the developer/seller and the ECU will come with everything that is needed to start and run. Only thing to do is check the timing with a gun to make sure of vems calibration. If the package was sent as you say, then it should have the 1.8t hardware. For that just choose the default IAT and it should work fine.

    As why it doesn't start speak to whoever sent the ECU. They would know how the injectors have been set up as well as triggers.

    Finally the size of the injectors is relevant to use for the req_fuel number. The deadtimes and battery compensation is secondary and if you don't know it it's not that important, as you have a default alternative. If you do find out those numbers of course it's more refined.

    Sorry, I never went that deep into making use of the trigger logs, so I don't know how to interpret them.

    Leave a comment:

Working...