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1983 UrQuattro

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  • #76
    Single fan should be more than sufficient
    Greg

    S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

    '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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    • #77
      After some interchanging of parts, Here is how the fan setup looks.




      Oil cooler will go here. It’s rubber mounted

      Also another important piece that took a while to find . For the oil pan. So tomorrow I should have everything I need to make the supply and return line to the oil cooler - at that point I will be able to fill the car with oil . Coolant not far behind

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      • #78

        I spent a ton of time trying to make a place to locate my harness interior parts (breaker, fuses, relays , ECU) that is hidden and safe . So first I tried just a flat sheet of aluminum .
        Marked a few things out, figured out how much space I have, and how much I needed. Current wiring layout .

        As usual I did not do any research or get any ideas of how to lay it out just tried something .



        This fastens to the blocker plate that goes into the hole where my AC intake used to be
        . This way no holes or modifications were done to any part of the car so if I don’t like it I can remove easily . Not sure if it’s the best way yet (??)
        It’s rubber mounted by bushings and held in with Allens . Then the ECU is mounted to it and plugged in. It *should* fit with the glovebox and not interfere anywhere and be invisible , just need to figure out how to tuck the wires away.

        This is what’s left as far as terminations I think.
        Fuel pump
        Switched ign 12V
        Black with eyelet (GND or 12V constant ?)
        Tach signal
        Mystery yellow wire (starter solenoid?)




        Refinished a couple more things and started cleaning the engine bay and rain tray . Time to stop storing things there


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        • #79
          Wow-looking good

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          • #80
            I posted elsewhere and someone mentioned my coolant reservoir . It bothers me how ugly it is but I think they are N L A . 857 121 403.
            I looked around to see if I had another that might fit ok but no luck yet


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • #81
              Had it running today but only for a very short period of time .
              Untitled by patrick C, on Flickr

              Found a few thing I need to look into ranging from small to big. Ha.
              The valve train is noisy, more than I would expect . I don’t know if that’s because this engine has not run in years or what. Everything was oiled when put together then the engine was rotated by hand.
              Then cranked the car over with fuel pump relay out and rechecked oil level twice . Then started and run for about 15 seconds, and rechecked. Topped off.
              Then started and run for 30 seconds or so. But it still sounds loud to me . Just loud lifters . Oil on the dipstick is totally clean.

              Second issue , I screwed something up on the fuel pump wiring . When I shut the key off the pump continues to run. This is with urs4 fuel pump relay. In addition I could literally disconnect the negative battery terminal and the car continues to run. So the ignition and fuel pump still gets power with ign switch off. So I will have to double check my wiring there and figure out what I did wrong . Possible that the terminal “I”15 is wrong for switched power ? Or I traced it back wrong and it’s not really going there .

              Third issue, my Power steering fluid pissed out of one of my hose connections and he hose is already tight .

              Lastly not necessarily an issue but I thought in MT cars the relay in position 8 was not needed , “AT lockout” relay. But that is the only way my starter would work . I double checked my wiring and I have the wire from the ignition switch running to the fuse panel at F50Z then comes out at E50A and runs to the starter .



              So a couple things that seem fixable , one thing that may or may not be an issue but will have to come back and recheck .
              On the good end lots of progress . Still need to finish the throttle cable .



              For the throttle cable I plan to make a new hook and crimp it on . I have everything measured out for length . Will clean up this donor pedal and find out if there’s anyway to chisel out what’s left of this old bushing and replace

              Also had to extend this bracket so I copied it from aluminum. Not as clean but it’ll work

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              • #82
                Throttle cable end is finished now . Same cable that is used with the Wagner intake but with a different end to match the B2 . I have another cable complete and I modified and was going to take a look soon. I can’t remember exactly what the B3 pedal looks like but I’m wondering in hindsight if I should have just changed the pedal. Although B3 pedal tends to fall apart I think .
                Small piece of stainless rod that was drilled on the lathe , then heated and bent into the proper shape .
                Soldered the new cable in place then crimped . Should work well

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                • #83
                  Temp gauge setup for running the car [emoji23]


                  And working on a permanent one but for lower down , not in the vent . It’s going to be difficult to fit the gauges I have in this car without cutting or modifying but I have a couple ideas and don’t want to alter the dash .
                  Last edited by afterthought; 4th May 2018, 20:49.

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                  • #84
                    So a couple solutions and another issue. I fixed the run-on issue, but I the fuel pump and cooling fan do not work.

                    I'll try to type this so it makes some sense.

                    I have done a few AAN swaps and always have used B15 to supply the 12V switched power to the harness. So with that in mind I switched the +12V Switched wire to the ECU from I15 to B15. In the diagrams, from what I can see, this makes no difference at all. But I can tell you that it does because the engine does not continue to run now. Odd

                    Second, the Starter. I was looking into old pictures ad recalled that when I initially got the car I had swapped out the fuse panel with one from a b4 (I think) to see if it would alleviate some weird starter issues. The panel that I put in has one thing different in position number 8 for the AT relay. As soon as I saw the old pic I realized why I needed a jumper for the starter. Swapped back my 'original to this car' 83 fuse panel and the starter behaves as it should.

                    Now with all that in place when trying to start the car I've realized the third issue.
                    I purchased the VEMS V3.3 ECU and a VEMS Base harness with the intention of wiring it myself, and had so many things on my plate I later decided to have Marc wire the harness for me because for the price its a no-brainer.

                    . With the laptop hooked to VEMS I attempted to get the car to start and cannot get it to start it seems because the fuel pump is not coming on with cranking. I verified this using a test light at the 12V supply to the fuel pump. So tried using a jumper and the car fires right up. With that in mind I now see (hopefully the reason) why the fuel pump relay is not triggering on and cooling fan are not working. The VEMS harness that he built for me has the cooling fan built in and relayed but the ECU was never set up for this it was just set up for base audi AAN. So looking in the settings I see that the cooling fan is set to off

                    Per recommendation above I tried
                    key on : laptop sees VEMS ecu connection
                    key off : Loses connection
                    *no fuel pump prime at any point*
                    Key on: Invert fuel pump , burn, key off *no fuel pump*


                    On the fuel pump just to double check I have tried 2 separate relays and cross checked both PN's / one is the older superseded PN but they both have the right connections on them so I’m fairly certain that it’s not turning it on / off.




                    Last edited by afterthought; 4th May 2018, 20:48.

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                    • #85
                      The current issue I’m working is the when the ignition is on the fan works as it should but when I turn the key off fan starts.
                      So I did a simple test
                      Key on, connect VEMS.
                      Fan is off
                      Lower fan on set point to 0Celsius : fan kicks on
                      Raise set point back to 80 c, fan turns off
                      Turn key off , fan starts.

                      So I’m trying to figure out if my power supply is wrong or there is some inverted setting in VEMS that I set wrong

                      I think I’m narrowing down to a few things with the power supply .

                      Starting at the engine bay . Power comes from the battery and goes to the starter. From the starter, it runs to the 200A breaker at the firewall .
                      Left = alternator and starter
                      Right = power out to vems main relay
                      Everything looks good there . Removed all terminals and tested each individually .



                      Now
                      It looks like At the main relay, I have a main power in that goes to one straight through fused (constant 12V) and another switched , fused , power out . So one inlet two outlets but one is switched .
                      When I test the +12V switched supply it test as it should.
                      When I remove the small 2 pin connector and test there with cAr off and battery disconnected I should have one leg with continuity to GND (small brown wire ) and one with nothing (small purple wire) . At least that is how I’m reading it .







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                      • #86
                        Some great progress. On the lifter noise, are they hydraulic lifters? It may just 10 mins or so once warm for them to quieten down. As for the fan circuit what you describe sounds correct
                        Greg

                        S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

                        '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Originally posted by Greg_S
                          Some great progress. On the lifter noise, are they hydraulic lifters? It may just 10 mins or so once warm for them to quieten down. As for the fan circuit what you describe sounds correct
                          Yeah I’m getting real confused with the wiring . Still have some work to do on tracing it back . I’m certain at this point all my wires (switched 12V, batt, GND ) are hooked up to the harness from the proper places . I have double checked and tested everything . But I may be looking for something outside that realm like a short to GND or something in the fusebox or battery circuit or somewhere else
                          On the oil and what not . I stopped the engine after first run to investigate why it was loud and had an oil leak in the front of the engine , and a huge power steering leak.
                          So for now PS belt is off.

                          On the front of the engine I had to remove and re-install the valve cover gasket and I used that opportunity to double check the piling to the cam area , tightness of cam bolts, cam timing, ETC.
                          additionally before I started the car again I added some break-in additive to the oil . At next start I made sure let the engine get fully hot .
                          Anyways I Had to take short break from the car due to work - which sucks because I’m so close .

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                          • #88





                            Still trying to trace wires back and figure out what I crossed up.
                            Tested the small two wire connector that is pictured above . Looks like it triggers the main power on and off. Purple wire is definitely switched and goes to 0V with key off.
                            Need to go back and test the fan relay now and figure out why seemingly the power to the fan is bypassing the rest of the system . The ignition is turning on and off when it should , but the fan is on with the key off and fuel pump is not turning on at all. Not sure if that’s settings related or not .

                            On another note , I picked up another AAN engine in good shape and I plan to rebuild it. Came with SCAT forged rods.
                            Anyone have any thoughts on these two items ,
                            Valves: stock or oversize?
                            preferred bearings to order ? Coated ones or OEM ?
                            I’ve used calico ones in the past but found something odd, that there is one bearing in every set I’ve had that seems to have an tab on it that is slightly misplaced.


                            The lifters have quieted down after I added some additive then let the car get to full operating temp. Oil pressure and everything else is good, oil is clean.
                            But I’ve got a nasty sound coming from the bottom end and have my fingers crossed that it’s just the water pump. So I ordered another one so soon I’ll be pulling that to get a look at the impeller .

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                            • #89
                              https://youtu.be/O9LucjauTGY

                              Fixed the issue with the “noise” - a fellow Audi nut came by and listened and recommended I pull the water pump. Got down to water pump the water pump and found the issue . Long story but the pump that was in there was wrong , too big on the pulley side and slightly larger on the impeller side . Which caused the belt to be tighter and ran out of adjustment . Installed new and checked free-spin at all ends of range and no issue.
                              See pics... old vs new impeller



                              Old vs new pump pulley side





                              So the car will run now smooth , but still have more issues to sort


                              The fuel pump is not being triggered by the ECU and I need to find the proper channel . Wire comes from ec36/18 pin and the configuration may not be set properly in vems . It’s currently set to INJgroup ch.5 which doesn’t sound right .
                              Ec36/18 is labeled as Injector F Ch. 32 on the vems website

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                              • #90
                                Ok . I’m an idiot .
                                Fuel pump is good now and all the wiring there has been checked .
                                Car starts and runs with no jumpers or anything .

                                Last problem I need to figure out wiring wise is the cooling fan.
                                As soon as I connect the battery the cooling fan turns on. (The switched power that controls the ECU is not on yet) .
                                I tried running a quick test and unplugged the ECU and then connect the battery. If I do this , the fan does not turn on.
                                So ive tested and what Im seeing is that the relay energizes the fan as soon as I connect battery power. I'm not sure why or how (if there is a setting in the ECU) that will change this but since the ECU doesn't have power at this point I don't think it has any control over that.



                                So somehow vems is allowing the fan to turn on . I’m wondering if it would be the P.259 driver somehow (lack of diode or something)
                                more to come ...
                                Last edited by afterthought; 11th June 2018, 03:47.

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