S2 Avant -93

[Antsa]

Turbo coolant feed required a slide hammer to pull out.


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Aluminum parts ready to be sent out for vapor blasting.


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Then it was time to start with the fuel lines.



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It is going to be tight with the AN fittings at the back but there is just enough room.



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[rxl]

i dont see any cracks in the pictures you have. wow fuel lines look realy nice.

[Antsa]

i dont see any cracks in the pictures you have. wow fuel lines look realy nice.

I think I can see cracks in the circled areas. Or mayby I'm just overly cautious because so many heads are cracked

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[Antsa]

Well the fuel pipe bending was not so easy. I spent most of yesterday with them and both pipes had to be scrapped. Today I took usable sections of the scrap and I made some models which hopefully will be a little help when I try to bend the full lenght piping again.


This section was very hard to do.

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[rxl]

I think I can see cracks in the circled areas. Or mayby I'm just overly cautious because so many heads are cracked

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Halki.jpg

would not even worry about it. had worse and ran great

[Antsa]

Fuel lines got finally done last weekend. Definitely not an easy job, but now it is done and I'm actually happy how they turned out.


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This engine side of the pipes will be finalized only after all the relevant components in the engine bay are in place. This is to make sure nothing gets in the way.



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Tank bottom has (or had) these points for fixing the heat shielding to. The threaded rod just snapped off when removing the speed nut. I have a plan to remove everything inside the plastic square. Then insert a a screw into the square and use an adhesive specially meant for lse plastics to secure it in place. Or maybe I will insert a screw into a small piece of plastic first and then glue the whole piece in. I will have to do some testing and see what works.



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[John.]

....... I'm actually happy how they turned out.

I can see why !

[Antsa]

Some small jobs were done today. Engine block has these locating pins that position the head correctly on the block. These had to be taken out so that deck surface can be milled flat. I bought a relatively cheap dowel pin puller set from amazon and while cheap and amazon does not very often a good tool make, this one worked a treat!

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This heat shield has seen better days

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So I made a new one from very thin aluminum sheet. Quick and easy to shape. New clips to hold it in place.

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I also fixed the broken studs (or screws?) at the tank bottom. I shortened two hex head screws and glued them in with some plastic adhesive and polyolefin primer. And it worked

The big heat shield went in as it came out. I figured it still has some life in it without any restoration.

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I also forgot to remove the plastic injector seats. I was packing the aluminum parts to be vapor blasted when I noticed this. These are annoying to remove. Heating with torch and gently scraping the melting plastic seems to the way?

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Hopefully tomorrow the seats are out and I can start with brake lines.

[kubo]

Great project! Thanks for sharing it with us.

All the best.
Peter

[Antsa]

Thanks Peter, I'll try my best to keep everyone up to date

[Tractor Dave]

Yes, I'm watching this too. Might have to rebuild my engine. What are the tolerances you have for bore wear? According to something I've dug up it's 0.04mm out of round and piston to bore clearance 0.07mm max. Does that sound about right?

[Antsa]

Hi Dave

I take it you have the same AAN factory manual as I have?

According to that manual, max bore wear is 0.08mm and max piston wear is 0.04mm from nominal dimensions.

This means if pistons and bores are both at wear limit, the max piston to bore clearance would be 0.08+0.04+0.03(stock clearance)= 0.15mm . Obviously that would be seriously worn engine.

I measured mine and had 0.08 piston to wall clearance at places and no trace of hone pattern in bores so will need a rebuild. If stock pistons are available I will propably be aiming at a 0.04-0.045 clearance.

[Tractor Dave]

I don't have the manual. The figures i have are from the Haynes manual which covers the 7a engine. They sound about right though. Good luck with yours

[Antsa]

I can send the manual if you like? I think I have your email from when I sent you the instrument cluster pinout.

[Tractor Dave]

Yes please. That will be very useful. Thanks