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Throw that immo box completely away and solder together K-Line and W-Line.
W-Line goes from immo to pin 55 in ECU, K-Line goes from immo to diag socket.
Find those two wires, connect them together, the rest you can just tape off.
This is temporary anyways, I need this just for couple of days to start the engine. After that we'll think about it. Maybe just put it under the dash including key with capsule. Maybe disabling it, maybe standalone, maybe not... don't know what the owner of that car have in his mind.
Wiring should be fine, don't think VAG would be using different wire colours in here
ANN wiring loom.
T6C red connector. Some other places referred as T6B (like in first page of this topic).
Pin #1 brown/red coming directly from Vehiche speed sensor G22.
So, my question, why I need T6A green connector pin #3 white/blue which is coming from AAN ECU pin #50?
Found out that it connects to the G21 speedometer from "top of attached image" though T26/7.
G22 is on the gearbox and provides speed signal into the speedo on the dash. The speedo generates the VSS signal which can be connected to multiple other things such as ECU, HVAC, ABS etc
You can find the source of VSS at pin 7 on T26 behind the speedo on that ws/bl wire but it is often easier to find at the radio plugs where it gets used for GALA function.
Typ85 machines generally do not have VSS but there are aftermarket ways to create it - kind of handy for doing launch control ;-)
(T6b) Red 6 pin connector.
1 Brown/Red (0.5) Vehicle Speed Sensor (G22)
3 Black/Blue (1.5) ECU pin 22, Relay position 4/15a.
4 Blue/Red (1.0) ----- Yet to be established ----
5 Blue/Black (0.5) ECU pin 31
6 Grey/Red (0.5) Hydraulic Pressure Control Switch (F79)
4/6 pin is for backup lights.
Code:
6Pin Light Brown plug, 3 pins have connections. I cant find this on schematics but can locate and label the wires.
3 Black (4.0) Fuse S115, pin 1
4 2x Blue (1.5/2.5) 1.5 – Fuse S116 pin 1, 2.5 – Fuse S75 pin 1
5 Brown/Yellow (0.5) T6e/6
5/6 pin
My multimeter showed that this goes from ECU pin #3 and is signal for the Fuel pump relay.
Couldn't find T6e/6 connection with after run.
Engine cold. Turn on ignition. Fuel pump relay ON. That's not how is has to be but read on.
After some time engine has run, I turn off engine to "ignition on" state but fuel pump relay is still ON.
Next move: turn ignition OFF - fuel pump relay is still ON.
I have to remove and reinsert ECU fuse to shut it off. Not touching igtion key before and after...
Disconnecting ECU pin #3 from fuel pump relay "signal" wire does nothing. Relay is still running.
on my typ85 AAN swap i actually swapped in an audi 1992 90 fuse box. its plug and play for the most part and it has the extra pin for the fuel pump relay that the AAN ECU needs to turn the fuel pump on. if i can find my notes when i did my swap i'll post up how i did it. the loom actually fits the typ85 chassis nicely in the engine bay and under the dash. i fabricated the false floor from the URS4 donor car i bought as well.
"The really good drivers got the bugs on the side windows." Walter Röhrl
I already swapped the S pin in the black plug under the typ89 (yes, 89; not 85) fusebox - that should turn FP relay on.
There is one "15" wire in the same black plug that is connevted to black "15" eyelet from the AAN loom.
If I take out that pin from black plug, then FP relay is silent, but I can't start the engine. If that pin is directly connected to ignition switch "15", the same old problem.
Tomorrow I'm moving FP relay out of fusebox and connection it according to AAN. I just need some connectors for 87F.
I'm defeated.
Could it be that holding relay in motronic ecu isn't disconnecting or faulty?
Are You sure, the ignition switch is OK? Which PF relay are You using?
Not sure i can help, not swapping yet, just investigating harnesses, and it seems to me the mapping should be like this:
T89 B15 - AAN T6o/3
T89 BS - AAN T6o/5
T89 B15a - AAN T6c/3
T89 B50A - leave T89 starter wire
T89 87a - AAN T6o/4
T89 O - AAN Eyelet Black
T89 L30 AAN Eyelet Red
i also put an AAN loom i a type 85 and used the origional fp relay of the car.
I have an easy solution,I have open the relay and make a wire bridge between +15 and the plus of the relay coil so that the fuelpump runs all the time with ignition on
afterwards, I have a switch placed between the green-red wire that goes to the fuelpump so I can shut it off for theft or programming the ecu or........ without the pump constantly running
audi coupe quattro b2 2.2 20vt project (573hp-626nm)
TWINCHARGED power,zero lag
AEM W/M injection
Yes, ignition switch is OK. Didn't have problems with previous engine.
Right now i'm using AAN relay.
2.3 NG relay is similar, but with more pins but works identical to AAN relay.
Your pinout looks similar to mine.
T89 B15 - AAN T6H/3
T89 BS - AAN T6H/5
T89 B15a - AAN T6C/3 and T6C/4
T89 B50A - leave T89 starter wire
T89 B87F (better than "O" because B87F is fused - S13) - AAN Eyelet Black and AAN T6H/4
T89 L30 - AAN Eyelet Red
T6H=brown, T6C=red plug in AAN. You have it named differently but we are talking about same plugs Could be different wiring diagrams...
I have an easy solution,I have open the relay and make a wire bridge between +15 and the plus of the relay coil so that the fuelpump runs all the time with ignition on
Don't understand that. What is 87f? Maybe H87f? Arcording to fuse block scheme H87f is bridged to B87f and they are bridged to 87a when FP relay in switched.
Isnt' t Trip computer just a job of yellow Typ89 T1h == AAN T6c/5 ?
VSS must be connected with that, of course.
'90-91 Typ89 NG engine harness interface pinout:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
T5 black
T5/1 white/grey - F1 oil pressure switch 1.8bar
T5/2 empty
T5/3 brown/green - Both ECUs with bridge to black diagnosis plug T2c/1
T5/4 empty
T5/5 violet/black - VEZ ECU
T10 black
T10/1 - grey/yellow - brake fluid level switch
T10/2 - blue/brown - MFTS F76 1/T
T10/3 - blue/black - F22 oil pressure switch 0.3bar
T10/4 - blue/yellow - MFTS F76 4/C (bridge with T3/2)
T10/5 - blue - alternator
T10/6 - brown - earth
T10/7 - green/blue - engine speed signal (tachometer)
T10/8 - brown/red - G22 gearbox Vehicle speed signal (+bridge to AAN ECU/50pin)
T10/9 - empty
T10/10 - empty
T3 brown
T3/1 - gn/ro B53C - V5 windscreen washer pump
T3/2 - blue/yellow - MFTS F76 4/C (bridge with T10/4)
T3/3 - br/gn F87 thermo switch for fan run-on
T3a red
T3a/1 - ECU
T3a/2 - empty
T3a/3 - empty
T1h yellow - yellow fuel consumption to ecu.
T1d White - blue/white MFTS F76 2
Single red + from ACC - L30
T2a white round
T2a/1 - bl/ro F4/2 reversing light switch == T6c/4 AAN
T2a/2 - sw/bl F4/3 reversing light switch with bridge to B15a
B-staecker black 8:
B53G(C) gn/ro - T3/1
B50A red/black or black - Starter 50
B15a black/blue - F4/3 reversing light with bridge to T2a/2
== ==
B15a black/blue - F76 3/+
BS gn/li - Ignition ECU J154 14 or Motronic ECU. ECU feeding?
B15 black - feeding of ign. coil, ECU sensors, etc.through fuses
B1(l) empty(?)
B87F empty(?)
Single black/red brown plug - M30az
Single red/black green plug - M30ac(?M30ag?)(? if comes to T2b/2 black diagnosis)
--
Staecker for aux gauges - not in the common engine harness.
T2s brown round
T2s/1 - bl/ws - G10 Oilpressure sender
T2s/2 - gn/sw - G8 Oil temperature sender
T6 blue
T6/1 - White/blue - Vehicle speed signal bridged to T6a/3 and ECU T55/50 - A/C control head (vehicle speed signal)
T6/2 - blue/green - F76 2/R ECT Thermal switch (MFTS) - A/C control head (engine coolant temp signal)
T6/3 - white - ECU T55/41 - A/C control head (increase engine idle speed)
T6/4 - green/yellow - ?ECU? - A/C control head (shutdown on full load)
-------------
mapping to audi 80:
T6o/3 - B15
T6o/4 - 87a
T6o/5 - BS
T6c/3 - B15a
Eylt Black - O 0 internally bridged to B87F and H87F via S13 and N via S22
eylt Red - L30
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