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Removing WGFV for good? Mechanical vs N75 boosting
Dredging up an old sticky, has this debate moved on since?
Having read this thread and separately returned our Ur to stock ECU it would seem the tuners applied a similar theory of disabling overboost fuel cut-off and either (Ur) mechanically upping the boost or S2/4 remapping and/or mechanically upping the boost.
I’ve got three Motronic ECUs here, Nothelle, MTM and a Homefry, so the assumption is at least some of the protection afforded by the N75 cycle could have been disabled on some of them. The diagnostic facility has certainly been turned off on the MTM, but has anyone got to the bottom of how neanderthal these ‘period’ Motronic tunes were?
85 WR Urquattro, 85 20vT International liveried RallyRep
93 MTMS2 Avant
Sorry for bringing up an old discussion….
What are the symptoms of a bad/faulty N75?
On my RS2 - all of a sudden I’m experiencing intermittent boost issues. On initial start up and go, after warmed up she boosts fine. Then max 0.4, but if I switch off and on - restart the car - she boosts fine for a while and then max 0.4.
I removed and cleaned the N75, hoping it would solve the problem
Is it possible for the N75 to cause intermittent problems. I’ll obviously try and get another, but asking if there is anything else I should be looking at. I’ve checked and no boost leaks
TIA
Sorry for bringing up an old discussion….
What are the symptoms of a bad/faulty N75?
On my RS2 - all of a sudden I’m experiencing intermittent boost issues. On initial start up and go, after warmed up she boosts fine. Then max 0.4, but if I switch off and on - restart the car - she boosts fine for a while and then max 0.4.
I removed and cleaned the N75, hoping it would solve the problem
Is it possible for the N75 to cause intermittent problems. I’ll obviously try and get another, but asking if there is anything else I should be looking at. I’ve checked and no boost leaks
TIA
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Try cleaning your MAF connector, the pins get a tiny amount of corrosion which upsets the signal to the ECU. Ideally you need to clean the mating surfaces of the female pins in the plug, or replace the pins entirely but a squirt with a good contact cleaner and good wiggle on and off a few times can offer sort it for a few days/weeks
Thanx all, I think I may have yanked a vac pipe to the ecu in error?
Fault code
I’ll have to trace and check
Will update when I find and solve to challenge
As usual, this forum or rather the people on this forum are awesomely helpful and knowledgeable - THANX
So found, what I thought was the culprit - the hose from the hard green pipe from the ECU to the FPR was a bit flimsy, so replaced that. Then came across another leak - the pipe from the, I think oneway valve - the yellow one, literally crumbled . Now I need to do delicate surgery to remove the piece of pipe that was clamped onto the valve , without breaking the valve........ aah the joys
An update - admin please move if this shouldn’t be here. I resurrected this thread looking for info on the n75, which I thought was the problem. Anyway I delicately managed to remove the pipe from the “yellow “ valve ? and decided to replace all the vacuum pipes - they were 27 years old?, some of the literally crumbled when touching them?. Those oem clips? are a pain to remove - patience was the secret. All new vac pipes and the intermittent boost issue is history - my little monster is back to her former glory?
Thanx for all the input?
I can’t post a vid - will try later
Have a good weekend!!!
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