S6 timing

[HMS-S6]

Personally I think it was charged for and not repaired as when I got to it, there were no marks on it at all.
Yes, on VCDS the temp reading is exactly as you'd expect.

[twoqu]

The ecu repair is interesting as it means its a born again virgin or the nice Garage didn't actually bother opening it up!
Even if it was damaged by repairing it, doesen't explain why it behaves the same more or less on different ecus.
Asuuming its the same temp sensor we have been therefore and at the time it seemed to have worked. Then again if the ecu sees a plausible signal and its checks out in VCDS we have to assume it ok now.

[HMS-S6]

I seem to remember that one member (Sonic) had an issue with the timing rotor window being at the very edge of what was acceptable from the ecu perspective but cannot remember the symptoms. I'll see if I can find it again.

Wouldn't this throw the ignition timing out at idle too? Mine is text book!

Plus, through ALL this, my boost figures have always been good!

[HMS-S6]

There are some invoices hinting at finding a running issue. An ecu repair, a ecu temp sensor and broken wire for the temp gauge. But all of these things check out ok.
To recap. This problem is only present during max torque (3,000-5,000) everywhere else it's feels ok, going like stink with 12.5-12:1 AFR above 5,000. I've felt misfires on V12's even and know it isn't a misfire!

[twoqu]

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=713130&postcount=1364

It was a boost issue primarily and had an adjustable cam pulley.

[twoqu]

I seem to remember that one member (Sonic) had an issue with the timing rotor window being at the very edge of what was acceptable from the ecu perspective but cannot remember the symptoms. I'll see if I can find it again.

[HMS-S6]

The previous owner reported the car to have to power issues but I'm I sure how sensitive to it he would be, to some unfamiliar to how torquey they SHOULD be.
I bought the car as a non runner when it got warm. Turned out to be a camshaft position sensor. I've re checked that work time after time but found nothing.

[UrS4boy]

The boost gauge signal is taken electrically from the ecu presumably from the map sensor. Not sure if its raw or processesed. The only way to test its accuracy would be to apply a known accurate pressure source to the ecu line and read off the display. Probably accurate to whithin 0.1 bar at a guess.

Agree. Also not sure about the signal from the ECU to the trip computer. It leaves the ECU at pin T55/32 on a yellow/blue wire and goes through T6d/1 (the grey connector pair) in Connector Stn. 2 in the passenger kick panel on the way to the dash and the trip computer.

AAN ECU Pin-out info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21009.phtml

Connector Stn. 2:http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/209044.phtml

[twoqu]

The boost gauge signal is taken electrically from the ecu presumably from the map sensor. Not sure if its raw or processesed. The only way to test its accuracy would be to apply a known accurate pressure source to the ecu line and read off the display. Probably accurate to whithin 0.1 bar at a guess.

[HMS-S6]

Yeh I guess. But I must add that if really laboured up (ie up a hill or dragging the footbrake) the boost on the dash creeps up till its 0.3 higher.

[AndyP]

The boost gauge in the S6 reads absolute pressure, so if the atmopheric pressure is high, the gauge will read high compared to your boost gauge which is zero'd relative to atmosphric pressure. The pressure today is around 1050mbars, maybe the car gauge rounds up, which is why it was reading 1.1 with the ignition off.

Sound plausable??

[HMS-S6]

What about the issue with the ECU reading high on the boost? It's constantly reading 0.1-0.2 higher than it should.

Even with the engine OFF and ignition on its reading 1.1

Although if of thought this'd cause Rich not Lean.

[UrS4boy]

Plus if it 13.3V at the ecu it will be less at the battery and even less at the fuel pump!

Sorry Robin, I will accept that the voltage at the fuel pump will be less than battery voltage but I CANNOT accept the idea that the voltage at the ECU will be MORE than at the battery. I am quite sure that that is not how the AAN is wired.

[UrS4boy]

Dave, do you have ANY WOT logs of your AAN?

No. I don't own VAG-com OR a laptop or pine for VEMS *because* I wouldn't want to become obessed with monitoring the minute details of my RS2'd AAN's operation.

[twoqu]

It still needs to be addressed unless you want to be stranded somewhere with a flat battery!
There is some magic voltage figure that a batery needs to charge thats why the alternator puts out 14V+ and not just 12+V! Pretty sure the injectors and coils get for example get full battery voltage so its advisable that they get the full jolt even if the ecu is supposed to take that all into account. Plus if it 13.3V at the ecu it will be less at the battery and even less at the fuel pump!
Should be a relatively easy fix and then its another possibility off the list. Perhaps its a stack of little things that are making a difference.