S6 timing

[newsh]

Probably covered this before but, the temp sender at the back of the cyl head, is it the correct part no and is the wiring plug ok?

[HMS-S6]

Yes. And checked continuity.

[newsh]

The lambda isn't used at all at WOT on a stock ecu.
I've checked a few times now, the continuity from ECU plug to the MAF pins which all come up with zero resistance. You're right though unmetered/incorrectly metered air is exactly how the car FEELS even. Plus, the figure at idle is text book. This is why o could really really do with a *control* car reading before heading down the wrong path blindly again.

But have you cleaned the ECU connector?

[twoqu]

In VCDS my nber 3 in group 000 stops rising at 255 despite the other channels showing true RPM. Is this normal?

Ignore me! Wrong group!

[HMS-S6]

I am quite sure that you can't just arbitrarily move the MAF from an atmospheric pressure, cold air temperature location to a pressurized hot air location and expect that everything will be wonderful without at least some remapping of the ECU.

I did think that too but I do have a spare everything to at least try it. I've been searching for what full load should be expected to be via Google so I can compare mine but all I've come up with is 1.8t engines. Although an entirely different setup. ALL load readings I found at WOT were 180-190% in group 003. Mine is 110%.
Like I said, I'm struggling defining where to go with the car without readings from a car that runs correctly. Think I may just have to bite the bullet and buy another car to read.

[UrS4boy]

Maybe pop the MAF in the hose from IC to Throttle Body. That way, any leak would be on the BOOST side do unmeteres air at WOT would not be possible as everything then is under pressure. No vacuum.

I am quite sure that you can't just arbitrarily move the MAF from an atmospheric pressure, cold air temperature location to a pressurized hot air location and expect that everything will be wonderful without at least some remapping of the ECU.

[HMS-S6]

In VCDS my nber 3 in group 000 stops rising at 255 despite the other channels showing true RPM. Is this normal?

[HMS-S6]

Maybe pop the MAF in the hose from IC to Throttle Body. That way, any leak would be on the BOOST side do unmeteres air at WOT would not be possible as everything then is under pressure. No vacuum.

[twoqu]

Going back to the idle. It seems the factory tolerance is quoted as 770-830rpm. Above and below these figures are faults needing investigation.
It also seem that there is a direct relationship between the measuring blocks 2 and 3, the idle speed and the engine load. The idle specification is 77-83 (X10). We know the load is a calulation based on rpm. The specified load range is 20-26.
So in effect each increment of the load equates to an increase in idle speed of 10 rpm, where 20 = 770rpm through to 26 = 830rpm. With the aircon on there should be an idle speed boost so both values should be in excess of the higher specified figures.
Therefore if the idle is truely 880rpm then the load figure should be higher than 26. Or looking at it another way if there is a descrepancy between the load figure and the idle speed it might again be suggesting an air leak. For example if the load is at 26 (830rpm) and the idle is 880rpm then that suggests unmetered air.
Of course I could be oversimplifying it! I await being shot down.

[HMS-S6]

It could still be to do with a sensor reading wrongly, either the MAF or the Lambda. I know that both of these have been replaced and the pins in the MAF connector have been replaced too. I think I'd be looking at and cleaning very carefully the connectors for the lambda sensor and the ECU connector, ideally pulling the female pins and cleaning in between the mating contacts with some worn out 2000 grit wet and dry and good quality contact cleaner like Caig De-Oxit.

The lambda isn't used at all at WOT on a stock ecu.
I've checked a few times now, the continuity from ECU plug to the MAF pins which all come up with zero resistance. You're right though unmetered/incorrectly metered air is exactly how the car FEELS even. Plus, the figure at idle is text book. This is why o could really really do with a *control* car reading before heading down the wrong path blindly again.

[newsh]

It could still be to do with a sensor reading wrongly, either the MAF or the Lambda. I know that both of these have been replaced and the pins in the MAF connector have been replaced too. I think I'd be looking at and cleaning very carefully the connectors for the lambda sensor and the ECU connector, ideally pulling the female pins and cleaning in between the mating contacts with some worn out 2000 grit wet and dry and good quality contact cleaner like Caig De-Oxit.

[twoqu]

If you get really bored you can X ref the atmospheric pressure sensor against the boost gauge in VCDS! Then again I don't think thats the most accurate sensor either and only effects boost pressure I believe.

[twoqu]

I would give the car a good charge over the New Year!
Do you get the aircon boost at idle? Should be able to hear it or measure it! Be intersted to see what the idle is when hot and whether it increases with the aircon on. It should effect the ign timing as well I think. Not that this is necessarily a problem but who knows!

[HMS-S6]

Still stinks of unmetered air but I've been disproving that since day 1.

[twoqu]

Wouldn't this throw the ignition timing out at idle too? Mine is text book!

Plus, through ALL this, my boost figures have always been good!

Again I think the idle is a bit high if it was at 880rpm. I thought it should be 830rpm when hot and a bit more with the aircon boost on. Obviously it fluctuates and I seem to recall that VCDS shows different values of the same parameter in different measurement blocks. Again just an observation based on what I have been shown!

We could do with an expanation of how the car apparently does not suck in enough air yet produces enough boost yet is as flat as a witches tit in the mid range!