Did you swap the whole throttle assembly?
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Yes I did mate and both cars ran the same after the swap!
With the stuff that's been swapped out it has no right to be poorly still. But yes it's as if a part of the car isn't at WOT.
I'll check the fuel pressure first and go from there.Last edited by HMS-S6; 21 December 2014, 12:09.Comment
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Pressure gauge hasn't arrived yet plus a very good friend of mine is in intensive care in a serious condition so I've not had time to work on the bus at all recently.
If the pressure is ok I might try putting the MAF on the boost side to rule out completely any air leaks in the intake.Comment
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Air leaks in the intake will make it rich under boost, not lean, so don't waste your time.Comment
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Even between MAF and turbo?
I thought unmetered air made it lean?
I'm still planning on measuring fuel pressure first I'm just also trying to have a game plan for what next if it is ok.Last edited by HMS-S6; 23 December 2014, 08:25.Comment
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This may be a stupid idiotic question but I dong suppose the destroyed flywheel and gearbox could cause any running issues with maybe ignition timing or making noise for the knock sensors to pick up by ANY chance? Just a thought!Comment
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I don't think in this case that's what is going on but, it is possible
for the ECU to pull the timing because it THINKS the engine is knocking.
Mine did this years ago when my alternator came loose, the vibration
at certain rpm would every now and then have me reduced to spring boost as the ECU would turn off boost control.Comment
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Shouldn't make it lean though. Pretty sure Prj has said in the past too that motronic richens up the mixture when knock is detected for safety.1994 URS4 Avant RS2+Comment
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On my 7a Coupe I had a broken inner exhaust valve spring cause the knock sensor to pull timing. The engine would not reach redline & felt as if was being held back. Initially it sounded like a knackered distributor drive gear.
Mechanical noises in the engine or flywheel could cause the knock sensors interpret this as a combustion knock. One way of testing knock sensors is to monitor the knock sensor values with a scan tool & use something like a wrench or hammer to tap on the block near the knock sensor location.
HTH, ChrisLast edited by A1QSHIP; 23 December 2014, 13:05."Nulla tenaci invia est via"Comment
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Fuel pressure gauge turned up yesterday so obviously not had time to fit it up BUT , , , , I've discovered a definite link AND the reason I thought it was fixed. Wait for it , , , , on a full tank it pulled like a train with perfect AFR, let it run to around 2/3 and it starts to lean off. I'm going to let it go low/lean off once more then fill it up and make double sure it richened back up then take the tank top out again and have a better look!Comment
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Hope you're getting close.
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Previously, I suggested
...Might be related to how high the fuel level is in your tank. When it high, i.e. filled to the second click, fuel is in the No.2 pipe above the fuel tank. Therefore, there could be a leak at the connection between Item 5 Hose and items 1 (tank) and 2 (filler pipe).
When the fuel level in the tank is high, the pressure head on the fuel pump inlet is higher, making it easier for the pump to increase the pressure to that required at the fuel rail (4Bar plus boost pressure). When the fuel level is lower, there is less pressure head on the fuel pump inlet, making it more difficult for the pump to increase the pressure to the required levels. As a result, it is possible that your lack of fuel is the result of a weak pump that is aided by higher fuel levels and hindered by lower fuel levels.
Bottomline: I would change the fuel pump using the DIY that I have posted at least once in this saga, er, thread.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avantComment
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