Although you are focusing on electrics I still strongly recommend testing for an air leak. When I ran kjet I had no end of them when the hoses were getting old.
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
-
-
Comment
-
Yes g28 counts flywheel teeth G4 reads the timing pin. Both checked as well as timing pin all working spot on. Air leaks affect fuelling as k jet is mechanical fuel injection. I should still be getting a spark. I will test rotor arm to see if it's going to ground.Comment
-
Yes the spark from centre lead of LT is both strong and about 3 or so per second. It's the number 1 plug that gave a very little or no spark..Comment
-
I even left LT lead on cap and left cap off the centre electrode was happily sparking away to the nearest earth. I'm suspecting the rotor arm at the mo. It was new but that doesn't mean it's ok. I have read a rmsimple test of holding the LT lead near the rotor arm and if the spark jumps to the rotor it is going to earth.Comment
-
Sorry Steven, I don't want to appear pedantic, but I'm confused when you say you get a regular spark from the LT lead. Is not the LT lead the one feeding the Coil? Is that what you are referring to?
If (as i believe) you're referring to the Coil to Dizzy cable (King Lead was what I was led to believe it was called, but that was years ago
), then surely if you're getting a healthy & regular spark here, and no further, it's got to be down to the rotor (grounding the spark to the centre shaft internally), or the dizzy cap itself.
The correct rotor for the WR has already been suggested, and I'm sure you have the right one with the wider contact edge, but could it be something as simple as the dizzy itself being just out of rotational position?
If i remember rightly- some 10 years ago I had a similar issue with my own WR, and slowly rotating the dizzy cured the issue, and it didn't return.
Just a thought, Buddy
Comment
-
Yes LT King lead etc. Dizzy cap is new and I have tried a spare. The timing marks are all aligned perfectly. I haven't tried another rotor arm yet. You know what it's like sometimes these faults screw your head. However the more I ponder I come back to rotor.. Cheers for all the advice guys..Comment
-
As I said Steven; I didn't want to appear pedantic, but aside all the quirky stuff that the WR has (wasn't it the worlds first car with a (albeit very basic by today's standards) engine ECU??), surely the basics of a dizzy still apply, ie if a spark is coming in, and not leaving where it should, it's either being lost to another cylinder (and as the injectors on the K-Jet spray 'Konstantly' (
), then would you not hear the detonation?), or it's being lost to earth via the shaft?
I know there are sensors everywhere to control the spark, but looking at this from a Basics point of view- I find it hard to believe the fault is anywhere other than the dizzy.
Good Luck
Comment
-
That's kind of what I'm thinking know. Eg a simple mechanical fault . As I exhausted all checks that involve the ecu I can only fault the rotor or dizzy. I will report back once I have a new rotor. Keep everything crossed..!!!Comment
-
I mean now...Comment
-
When you get it sorted, WE NEED PHOTOS/VIDEOS
Comment
-
I'm not sure if I explained myself properly earlier.. If the ECU gets the TDC sensor on the flywheel but doesn't get the hall signal from the Dizzy it only sends one spark per revolution of the crank and this will occur at TDC on cyl 1.
If the ECU is getting the hall signal from the dizzy (and the TDC sensor on the flywheel) then you will get 5 sparks per 2 revs.
Your description of 3 or so sparks per second strongly suggests that all is well and you're losing the spark in the rotor or dizzy cap.Comment
-
There is two different caps/rotors for the WR. The chassis break is at 85-E/85-F.
035 905 207A Cap 055 905 225B Rotor for up to E.
034 905 207B Cap 052 905 225C Rotor for F on. This rotor is listed as 10mm which appears to be the dizzy shaft diameter.
So perhaps this is just a mismatch between the components.Comment
-
Correct rotor arm
Comment
Comment