Managed to change 3 cv joints on axle stands bit akward but doable still not a nice job it is best done on a ramp
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My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration
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Damn. My last post is missing my solution! Anyway, here goes again.
Use PROPER penetrating fluid. Not wd40 as it just doesn't work in the same way.
I did: squirt, soak, squirt soak etc. Then (maybe even next day) rotate the flange that is holding on to your driveshaft and then tap with a light hammer as you rotate. Tap, squirt, tap, rotate squirt etc etc. The shocking action of the hammer finally let the fluid in and broke the grip and away it came. Prior to that, it was not going to let go and thay was after using stilsons, levers and lots of swearing.
Proper penetrating fluid is a revelation. I'd never been convinced up till this point and have used it ever since if I suspect trouble.
Good luck!
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Originally posted by steve briance View PostDamn. My last post is missing my solution! Anyway, here goes again.
Use PROPER penetrating fluid. Not wd40 as it just doesn't work in the same way.
I did: squirt, soak, squirt soak etc. Then (maybe even next day) rotate the flange that is holding on to your driveshaft and then tap with a light hammer as you rotate. Tap, squirt, tap, rotate squirt etc etc. The shocking action of the hammer finally let the fluid in and broke the grip and away it came. Prior to that, it was not going to let go and thay was after using stilsons, levers and lots of swearing.
Proper penetrating fluid is a revelation. I'd never been convinced up till this point and have used it ever since if I suspect trouble.
Good luck!
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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Best penetrating fluid i have ever used is Omega 636. Dont know if its available in the UK, but it is unreal how good it actualy is. WD40 and the likes are like squirting water on stuff in comparison
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50/50 ATF and thinners bears everything
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Originally posted by newsh View Post50/50 ATF and thinners bears everything
I was going to post about the same thing and glad I read all the way through beforehand.
In refinery maintenance we use 50:50 ATF:Acetone when the off the shelf penetrating oils (typically Loctite 51221 or AeroKroil) aren't up to the task. Best part about the homebrew is that the surface tension is much higher so if you spray it upside down it doesn't drip off the threads as much.Find me on Instagram @pry4sno
2010 Golf Sportwagen TDI /// #farmenwagen
2002 Dodge Ram 2500 24v Cummins 4x4
1992 80q 20v /// Eventual AAN'd Winter Sled
1990 Cq /// Project: Because Racecar
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Great tip! Thanks guys. Last driveshaft came off no problem today. Soaked it overnight in the described potion and it did the trick.
All the struts also removed today and put aside ready for refurbishment.
I now am having issues with the rear subframe. Two bolts sheared and two came out ok but the frame is still refusing to budge. Of course I had to lower the car down to the ground so that the subframe will not drop on my head and now its difficult to see what's still holding it there. The joys of working on old carsNothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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Hi Dave you undone all 4 bolts that attach the subframe to the body disconnected all the the brake pipes and handbrake cables, all the suspension components etc. Have you attempted brute force it could be the addition of corrosion around the mounts holding the subframe there not that heavy i managed to get mine off with a pry bar.
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Originally posted by joss01 View PostHi Dave you undone all 4 bolts that attach the subframe to the body disconnected all the the brake pipes and handbrake cables, all the suspension components etc. Have you attempted brute force it could be the addition of corrosion around the mounts holding the subframe there not that heavy i managed to get mine off with a pry bar.Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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I was thinking maybe stuck on what’s left of the bolt..
You could try cutting out the rubber to leave the centre of the bush behind.
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On my car we had to cut windows in the chassis and fit new nuts
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As mentioned. if you can, cut the rubber out. Either use a blowtorch and melt the rubber off, or use a holesaw without the arbour/pilotdrill. Then you should have plenty to weld something on left.
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Originally posted by fish View PostAs mentioned. if you can, cut the rubber out. Either use a blowtorch and melt the rubber off, or use a holesaw without the arbour/pilotdrill. Then you should have plenty to weld something on left.
I then cleaned up the bolt and welded a nut on.
Came out nice and easy then.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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Happy days. Thats a relief not having to perform surgery!
I'm sure your plan for the underside includes the full treatment, back to metal, treat rust then apply epoxy/underbody stuff?
Don't forget to have a good root round inside the body where the captive subframe nut is...mine was literally full of dried mud. Heaven know's how this had affected the hidden metal but - a good poke out with a bent wire released a small pile of mud dust, blast with hose, dry and then plenty of dinitrol penetrating cavity wax pumped in there should have done the trick.
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