jbrentd's 2nd Chance CQ

[jbrentd]

Hey mate, lovely work on the car. I sent you PM few days ago, could you please check it? Also, what is that terminal , where goes two red wires?Also how big positive wire you used? 0Awg , some silicone of ptfe insulation? Thanks

Hey Tom, thank for the comments! I just replied to your PM. That terminal is an inline fuse holder for my high/3rd speed on the 500W fan that I pulled from the donor 200. I have it running to a 70 amp relay that is triggered by the red/black wire on the 7A fan plug.

As for the positive and negative battery cables, I used 2/0 ga cable and made my own terminals with cable lugs, heat shrink and a crimping tool. I think I bought a kit on eBay that came with 15ft of positive cable and 5ft of negative cable. That size might be overkill, but I didn't want any issues given the length of the cable from there to the battery in the back.

[Tom_]

I am thinking of making and routing the cable wiring as same as you, but with 0awg wire. Your battery negative is grounded only in the trunk? No problems with grounding? I read something that our cars needs to have perfect ground and is good to have the ground on the same spot as it was before

[jbrentd]

I am thinking of making and routing the cable wiring as same as you, but with 0awg wire. Your battery negative is grounded only in the trunk? No problems with grounding? I read something that our cars needs to have perfect ground and is good to have the ground on the same spot as it was before

I won't know for sure if I have ground issues until I go to start it, but I think/hope I am good. I've read that you want your battery ground to be as short as possible for safety reasons. I did ground the battery in the trunk to the body. And I used the old ProCon10 captive nut to attach a ground post in the engine bay for the ground to the bell housing.

[newsh]

Should be ok, I moved my battery under the rear seat using a battery box section from an ABY bodyshell.
In the ABY the underseat battery grounds to the body with a short lead.

[newsh]

I won't know for sure if I have ground issues until I go to start it, but I think/hope I am good. I've read that you want your battery ground to be as short as possible for safety reasons. I did ground the battery in the trunk to the body. And I used the old ProCon10 captive nut to attach a ground post in the engine bay for the ground to the bell housing.

All extremely tidy mate

[Tom_]

I will do it the same as you Brent, looks tidy and clean and the battery will be installed approx in the same spot as you have. Sadly I haven't that hole in the firewall at stock for the positive wire as you have

[jbrentd]

I will do it the same as you Brent, looks tidy and clean and the battery will be installed approx in the same spot as you have. Sadly I haven't that hole in the firewall at stock for the positive wire as you have

That hole in the firewall I used for the positive cable was used by the ProCon10 cables.

[jbrentd]

So, a couple weeks ago I started to prep for firing it up by filling it up with fluids, checking the timing marks, hooking up the instrument cluster, etc. When I went to turn the key just to the accessories position to see if I was getting any power...I got nothing. It had been so long since I worked on the wiring, I forgot I never finished tying in all of the grounds.

Last time I worked on the wiring, I merged what was left of the 7A harness with the 3B harness, made the necessary connections and I left off with this. Even though all of the relays are connected, this wouldn't ultimately work because all of the wire looms are hanging down below and they need to be tucked up behind the relay panel.



So, I disconnected everything again and went for another try. Much better this time around. It's finally showing signs of life when I turn the key! So, swapped a couple relays and tricked the fuel pump to run to purge the air out of the lines. The system pressured up and I quickly found a good sized fuel leak on the line between the regulator and fuel rail. I was done for the weekend.

Fast forward to last weekend, I went to repair the fuel line. Having repaired another fuel line on this car, I figured this one might be similar. So, I cut out the section of braided line and replaced it with a new section of fuel injection hose and oetiker clamps.

After repairing the fuel line, I went back at trying to get it started. It was clear I wasn’t getting any fuel or spark, so I started doing some voltage/continuity checks. Something wasn’t right. After digging in a bit, I quickly realized I hadn’t finished a few more crucial electrical items…like putting in the fuses for the two ignition circuits.

That’s what happens when I pick up the wiring from where I left off over a year ago. After doing that, the thing started so smooth and idled very well.

So pumped right now. It’s been 3 years since I took it off the road.

[Jaswan]

Woohoo!!

Well done

Best feeling ever

Regards

Jase.

[newsh]

Good work

[Tom_]

Great job, the wiring is my nightmare. So the second try was like, disconnect everything and then connect each wire to the fuse/relay board?

[jbrentd]

Woohoo!!

Well done

Best feeling ever

Regards

Jase.

Thanks Jase! Yes, I was grinning from ear to ear.

[jbrentd]

Good work

Thank you!

[jbrentd]

Great job, the wiring is my nightmare. So the second try was like, disconnect everything and then connect each wire to the fuse/relay board?

Thanks! Well, I had already made all of the connections to the main fuse panel. So, I didn't have to redo any of those. But for the auxiliary relay panel (under the steering column), I had to disconnect everything and tuck the wire looms behind the aux panel and under the main fuse panel as best I could. Before reconnecting all of those, it was important to first route and connect all of the grounds to the two ground lugs. Some of those ground wires are pretty short.

[jbrentd]

One of the remaining items keeping me from a test drive is the brake master cylinder. It’s been on the car with the lines bled for a while, but it had a slow leak. I feared it was on the piston on this brand new MC, because I paid about $90 for it a couple years ago, but the only one’s available now are over $300 now. After bench bleeding it and letting it sit in my vice for a few days, I was able to confirm the source of a leak was at the rubber seals for the reservoir. So, I swapped the old ones on and it's been dry ever since. Let's hope it stays that way.






Was able to get some of the dash back together last weekend too.




And received this in the mail from Issam. I’m fearful my DIY drill/tap job on the stock extension is going to leak since there is very little sealing area on one side of the gasket.




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