Black Ur Project

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers guys

[Rikki Kitto]

Amazing work

[Tractor Dave]

I got the other rear strut on this morning.



Then this afternoon I went to fit the rear brake shields. Should have been a five minute job. I'm using stainless steel bolts and one sheared off whilst tightening. Anyone who has had this happen will know how much of a pain it it to drill out stainless.


Took most of the afternoon. Ended up putting a helicoil in.


Got there in the end. Phew.




Rear brakes next.


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[newsh]

Just not worth using stainless unless it's boat quality A4 and even then you need to run a tap down the hole first and use antiseize. We had so much trouble with stainless at work, the customers want it though!
I tend to use 10 or 12 grade allen bolts for stuff like that or good quality plated hex and plenty of wax over them.
What I have learned is to run a tap or a chaser down any threads in parts that have been painted or had any kind of media blasting done, sand is bad as you think you’ve got rid of it but it lurks even in through holes and the glass beads are a nightmare, even worse.
A mate had a load of stuff vapour blasted for a 70s Kawasaki 1000, he assured me he’d jet washed it and air lined it and we started reassembling the front end and the bolts all seemed tight in the threads, tried to back them out and they’d lock up, it took hours and lots of release agent and back and forth with a spanner to carefully take everthing to bits again, chase the threads with a tap and then it all flew together with fingers.
With stainless though it can happen with brand new nuts and bolts, you only need a tiny bit of swarf or damage and it will gall and roll up a bit of metal and that’s it, seized. I have a love hate relationship with stainless! Lol

[Tractor Dave]

Spot on Newsh. The issue was powder coating in the hole and me not putting the tap in deep enough before hand

[Tractor Dave]

The rear brake calipers are mucky and the pistons are seized.
Took quite a bit of pressure to get the pistons out using the air line.


One bolt sheared off.




I've never done calipers like these before. Looks simple enough.
Carriers cleaned up easily.


Why would anyone put new pads and discs on brakes that were seized?


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[Tractor Dave]

So a quick blast with the welder and the old bolt was extracted.




Unfortunately, one of the pistons is corroded in one spot.


I have new pistons in the repair kit but not sure how to extract the centre part of the old piston. I can't see any circlip. Anyone?



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[Colesy]

Amazing work here Dave! Let me know if you fancy working on another one afterwards!!

[Tractor Dave]

Always happy working on a Ur

[Blagave]

Dave.....you are doing a wonderful job with your build / restoration.

[fish]

The center piece isnt threaded in is it? Was thinking if those notches around the edge were for a sort of wrench (or a hammer and a punch)?

[Tractor Dave]

I think it's pressed in and the outer ring engages with a lip. I will have a play in the garage today and see what happens.

[Rikki Kitto]

Always happy working on a Ur

What about a very tired and slowly deteriorating S2 Coupe

[Tractor Dave]

Anything five pot turbo always welcome.

So, the centres were just pressed in. I used the centre screw like a side hammer and they popped out quite easily.
Everything else dissembled and cleaned ready for painting.



I had one bolt the correct length to replace the one that sheared. One other bolt had been replaced in the past with a stud and nut. I had another bolt but it was too long and not threaded far enough. So cut the thread a bit longer and then chopped it to size.



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[4WDrifter]

I stumbled across this video yesterday, apologies if it’s been uploaded before.
https://youtu.be/namjJV8iRdQ