My silver RS2 Project

[Crasher]

I fitted a Febi brake light switch and rebuilt the steering shaft bearing as well.

[Tractor Dave]

Wow. Thats a proper job!

[Crasher]

When I took this one out, I found one of the over centre springs broken and the pushrod already welded so I completely rebuilt the pedal box, powder coated pedals, new accelerator pedal, cable wheel, MC, springs and Ultra Delrin bushed the pedals for me, also pedal rubbers (not shown)...again, only possible because of Tradition.

[Tractor Dave]

All i can think its there for is to reduce pedal vibration.

[johne]

Go back 20 years and I recall plenty of debate over whether the rubber knuckle in the pushrod was needed and what it was actually there for??? It was often the first item to fail in the clutch system, especially if you had an uprated pressure plate.

Fortunately, after a run of 3 pressure plate failures (another Audi design delight ) the last Audi supplied (actually Luk brand) pressure plate had a much lower pedal pressure which then took the loading off the knuckle and has lasted over 100,000 miles.

[4WDrifter]

Bit late now but I (well my customer) do have a spare new genuine clutch MC (and slave) from Tradition due to being a **** and ordering them twice.

I wouldn’t put it too far away, I suspect you might get a few PM enquiries, spare or not!

[Tractor Dave]

Bit late now but I (well my customer) do have a spare new genuine clutch MC (and slave) from Tradition due to being a **** and ordering them twice.

Its always handy to have spares

[Crasher]

Bit late now but I (well my customer) do have a spare new genuine clutch MC (and slave) from Tradition due to being a **** and ordering them twice.

[4WDrifter]

I’m blown away again Dave. Thanks for sharing it all in pictures mate.

[Pibbow]

Fantastic progress David

[Tractor Dave]

Got this finished this morning. Last night I couldn't get the outlet pipe nut to thread into the master, despite spending about 30 mins on it. In the morning, with a fresh head I knew exactly what was needed. The pipe needs to be perfectly true in order to get the nut threaded in. Undoing this joint allowed me to get it right and it screwed straight in.


Then it was just a matter of bleeding.
Turn the steering to the right and remove the gear change linkage (one 10mm bolt).






I don't pump up the pressure too much. About 10psi. Pump the pedal slowly a few times then leave it down before closing the bleed nipple. Jobs done and nice smooth clutch operation. Happy face.


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[Tractor Dave]

Amazing. There must be a few out there left sitting in garages around the place.

Anyway, on to the clutch master. It seems I have a spare in my parts collection (as you do).


However. This has a m6 thread on the end of the rod. It should be M8. I did some digging and original masters are only available at Tradition and are mighty expensive. I rang Quattro Corner on the off chance that he still had some originals but he can't get them and sells one with a M6 thread and a new clevis to fit. It's also quite expensive.
So, I decided to get creative.
This is the little joint that causes the issues. It has a rubber internal bush which obviously disintegrates.


I have an engineer friend and I'm going to ask him if he car make a copy without the bush.
In the meantime, I decided to adapt the new rod.

The M6 thread was cut off and a new M8 welded on.





It doesn't look pretty but it's strong.

Removing the master isn't my favourite job.
I removed the airbox top and brake reservoir heat shield to give a little more space.


A shallow container to catch any fluid.


12mm spanner for the pipe nut.


Inside the car it's tight.
Fortunately I have the correct long 6mm Allen to undo the cap heads.






And the clevis is removed with a 13mm spanner.
The bulkhead seal just pulls out easily and the master cylinder comes out via the engine bay after a wiggle inside.


I measured the rod length carefully so it goes back the same.



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[Crasher]

I still have the genuine tool for that pump, only used it once in the last decade...

[K Simmonds]

Just been reading through, I was going to suggest crap in the tank after the failed fuel flow test but obviously you've sorted that out. A bit of a pain but a nice easy fix.

[Tractor Dave]

All back together. I filtered all the petrol whilst putting it back.


And got lots of muck out.


Took her for a test drive and she is running fantastic again. Boost is back and nice and strong.
Now, you know how these cars are. There is always something to fix. My clutch pedal felt odd. I removed the panel above the pedals for an inspection and I can see there is flex in the push rod. I did some research here and found that the plastic joint fails. Another little job to do!


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