My silver RS2 Project

[John.]

Johne/Dave What type of sensor is the crank/speed sensor and can it be tested with a multimeter please.

Dave, that car has more secrets than POTUS !

[johne]

They are both just an inductor or coil. They have no active element, just a long coil of wire connected between the two pins (1 & 2. pin 3 is a screen connected to ground). You can check them with a multimeter by measuring the resistance between pins 1 and 2. Don't know the value, probably around 1k ohms but it doesn't matter as long as they both measure roughly the same and not open circuit or short circuit to the case or pin 3 in which case they're toast.

If Autodoc are to be believed, you can have a new one for £25.

[Tractor Dave]

I did test ohms. They were both the same, about 8 from memory. I ordered two new sensors just in case. Coming tomorrow.

[johne]

Skulduggery afoot........ Dave find relay J342 and unplug it. Car should start. Also check you've got 12 volts on pin 27 of the ECU.

Apologies Kit, on a RS2 you do need the factory alarm unit/vacuum pump connected for the car to start.

hashluck, the same doesn't appear to be true for S2 coupe's but it may depend on the year of the car and if it has the immobiliser key chip system fitted. I don't have all the wiring diagrams for all years to check.

[Tractor Dave]

Pin 18 has power ignition off and pin 27 has power ignition on. I need to check I have good continuity between crank and speed sensors and the ecu.
My Rs2 owners manual says that if the car has not been used for an extended period the drivers door must be unlocked using the key to deactivate the immobiliser. There must therefore be a link.

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks John. I don't seem to have that relay. My car is an early 95 so it was the first of the key transponder immobiliser type. Doesn't have the infrared remote either. Some good news is that since I cleaned the two pin connection under the speedo the immobiliser light no longer flashes. Maybe that part of the conundrum is solved?
So my new sensors arrived. Before I fitted them I hooked up an extra long test lead so I could test connectivity between the sensor plugs and the ecu end of the loom.


Everything tested good including the earths.

So I fitted the new sensors. Intermotor brand. I've used their stuff before and quality seems ok.


Still no start.

Now I am concerned as to why two of my vac pump wires had been cut. I've ordered another pump and will see if that makes any difference.

Failing that I need to re check all the loom I can see for cut ins or other bodges.


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[Tractor Dave]

Just did a couple more tests today.
Re checked fuel flow and pressure at the fuel rail and that the connections are right. Removed the fuel pressure regulator and checked nothing in there causing a blockage.
Tested for a spark. This isn't as easy as it sounds on an ABY/ADU.


And yes, I have spark.

Then tested all injector connectors and I have 12v on one terminal with ignition on.


So something is preventing the injectors from firing. Everything else seems good.
All the injectors were recently cleaned and tested good.


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[newsh]

There are 2 immob relays in positions 8 and 10? The ECU is looking for a signal on Pin27?







Fuel pump relay supplies 3 fuses 13, 24, 25, 28. Trace those circuits to make sure they're complete.




Did you rejoin the wires into the doors after removing the alarm? Or were they not cut into?

[newsh]

Sorry those were a bit blurry.

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks John.
I don't have relay 8.
I've tried another good relay in 10.


I will do some more crawling under the dash.


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[Tractor Dave]

Those door wires were not cut. Just spliced into.

[Tractor Dave]

Some news.
Thanks to Newsh, Johne, Paul Nugent and others who sent me all the wiring diagrams and suggestions. Last night I had another good crawl under the dash and found two new wires (well hidden) that had been cut and joined to black wires that also had been cut. I repaired those and this morning had another go. She immediately fired up.



However, I only ran her for a few seconds as the red oil warning came on and the oil pressure gauge jumped straight to max. I know from experience that this is probably due to incorrectly fitted wires on the cotton real sender. So set about swapping them over and went for another start. All good this time. Oil pressure just under 5 bar and dash light gone.
So I ran her up to temperature and burped the coolant bottle. Everything seems to be working and fan cut in just above 90 on the gauge. The power steering pump is very noisy though. I think I have a spare somewhere. The tappets were also noisy for a few minutes but this disappeared when the engine warmed up.
So up on the ramp and this 15/40 mineral oil dropped to clear all the assembly grease. I will re fill with some more 15/40 mineral oil and a new filter for the running in period.


However, no celebrations unfortunately.
I have a major oil leak. Looks like the front crank seal which is brand new. These cars!
Issimo called by to cheer me up.





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[newsh]

Major hurdle nonetheless, award yourself a beverage!

[John.]

Well done Dave

[Ian Simmonds]

Lovely to see you today Dave, and the RS2. It’s fantastic work, believe it or not, the photos don’t do it justice.