Another "Stroker" Project

[Billman]

Hi, thanks for the reply. It was not so steep and it was at almost sea level. The temp was 3-4 degrees.

The 80-120 is with second the 100-150 is with 3rd.

What was the weight of your car when you made those measuments?

I had some boosting issues when we measured it and unfortunately the car was not on a proper scale. We must do it sometime again i think since now i have no issues with the boost and i also raised it a bit.

Tha car was much much faster than a Subaru Impreza Sti MY07 (approx 300bhp) and a bit faster than a previous BMW M5 with the 400bhp engine, so i think with the boost problems i should have had approx 400-410 hp.

[Billman]

I was giving some thoughts about this EM i am going to try and my question is how should i remove material in order to make last some more and be not so heavy?

see pictures and comment please!

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[Billman]

Please comment on the pictures above.....

Here is a video of us playing with the car with some lounch control. The car had then 1.45 bar overboost and 1.35 bar ct. Now it is running from 1.6 slowly rising to 1.7bar.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbkuYafUD2E

[quattro84]

I wouldn't cut the casting because of internal stresses and fiberstructure. It will change the heattransfer aswell.
And most likely if you divide the flange perhaps the parts will move in a way that the bolt-pattern doesn't fit that snug on the head.
What does it save you in weight if you remove it? 2kg max? I'd rather put my girlfriend on a diet...

[Billman]

do you think so? You know that i respect your opinion even i dont like your style all the time

i was tald that it would be better because the big contact area will transfer too much heat to the head!

[quattro84]

Your gasket should help to keep the temperature in the manifold. A heat-deflector like seen on the 100 S4 could help out.
The heattransfer is a funny thing.. the aluminium head is good for transporting heat. But where is the biggest amount of heat? I'd say around the exhaust valves. So who is warming up who in this game. Because of the restrictive properties of the turbo the manifold temperature will rise. But till what temperature compared to the head itself.
Thereby the head gets cooled by the waterflow. Water dissipates heat x times better than the air that's surrounding the manifold.

Seriously, i'd keep it original. I'd guess that the guys who developed this casting would have thought about removing that material.

[Billman]

I like the idea of cast with tubular design but the manifold has of course flaws that i am going to correct (casting imperfections)

I think the material is not like Wagners manifold but with my EGT and the EGT i am going to have with a T3 turbine housing i think and hope that it is going to be ok. appart i am going to support it somehow. I am going to try and watch it closely and then see if it holds.

[martinjs]

Where did you get it? and who's manifold did they copy?
looks a lot like a copy of Repo's.

[Billman]

whey come every now and then in ebay. I think they are a copy of these chinese tubular 304SS that are in ebay.

[Billman]

After a long time i started again with the stroker and i have some questions for you guys:

1. Should i go for 4032 or 2618 pistons? The 4032 are like the stock ones (can handle power and are good for day to day use) the 2618 ones give piston slap because of the higher tolerances due to metal expansion and can handle even more abuse then the 4032 ones.

http://www.tradekey.com/selloffer_view/id/1567808.htm

2. What cams should i use? I have a set of ADU, a set of AAN and a set of 7A

3. What Waterpump (RS2 one with the smaller pulley that turns faster or the ABY one that is more easy to find?

4. What clucth choises do i have for the 3B flywheel i am going to use? Any part numbers of the Sachs sprung sintered that would fit?

[Billman]

thats good to know.

other question is: does anyone made a stroker with 158mm rods like i am going to do? How should i check how to remove from the cylinder bottom? There an oil line to care about!

[quattro84]

Basic metallurgy learns that a 4000 quality like the 4032 contains a higher grade of silicon. The silicon makes it harder and more ductile. So greater restistance to wear and deformation. Bad thing is that it is more brittle and will crank faster under knock compared to the 2618. When cracks appear in 4032 they will continue to travel were in 2618 they don't.

Choice depends on your goals. You want a street drivable car. So take the 4032.

[AndyP]

thats good to know.

other question is: does anyone made a stroker with 158mm rods like i am going to do? How should i check how to remove from the cylinder bottom? There an oil line to care about!

I did mine by taking a little at a time and checking it by fitting the crank with 1 rod and an old piston ( no rings ) , turn it through 1 revolution to check for clearance. Keep repeating until it will turn. I checked the clearance by using modelling clay rolled to 2mm thick, when it missed that I knew ( hoped?! ) it would be OK. I used this for reference

http://www.leopardmotor.com/tdiblokk_18.jpg

I made sure I plugged all the oil holes before I started though!

[Billman]

CP pistons and JE pistons both recomend 2618 for this application so i think i will go for this.

@Andi

This engine in the picture has no oil squirters for the pistons :-( mine has and there is an oil line that connect the squirters.

[AndyP]

Mine has the oil squirters too, I don't think I removed as much material as in that picture, it was just used for reference. I'll see if I can find the pics I took of mine.