20V CQ Tidy Up

[Acidburn]

Look forward to seeing more pictures, what braided hoses you using? goodridge?

[Error404]

yeah, Goodrich hoses from Vagparts.

Just rears for now.. i'm on the lookout for a pair of front calipers to refurb, then the fronts will be given the same treatment

[Azman]

Get a set of them for you. Az

[Error404]

Nice one

Right, more progress

Brakes bled, rear wheels on and car on the ground for the first time in ages!! Woop!





Replacement Rad in (thanks Azman )


Waiting for parts to arrive, so took the front end apart - belts stripped, crank seal replaced.
Replacement crank sprocket, snub mount, alternator and alternator bravket to go on, as well as new belts and waterpump.

[Acidburn]

Got alot of your parts off today, just out of interest when you was working on the back end what colour was your shocks on the car as on mine they are a nice yellow colour, gonna clean them up and see if its anything uprated

[Error404]

Windscreen and A-piller trim resealed - no leaks now!!!





Bit of rust needs sorting here at teh top of the windscreen. Bit for the moment i just want the car on the road and water-tight


Bit of paint on the D/S pillar trim to be sorted though... oops!

[Azman]

Sorry I didn't ring you today been all over the place, def next sunday though!!! DEF!!!

[Error404]

Got alot of your parts off today, just out of interest when you was working on the back end what colour was your shocks on the car as on mine they are a nice yellow colour, gonna clean them up and see if its anything uprated

The ones are black on the CQ, there were already Konis on my 20v when i got it - they are yellow

No probs Az, managed to get a sh*t load done this weekend and the end is in sight
Next weekend is fine mate, hoepfully grabbing the last few bits i need of Mr Acidburn too

[Error404]

Had a half day at work, so i thought i'd put the afternoon to good use

Insulation in:




Carpet washed and in, drivers foot area needs a bit more scrubbing




S2 Instruments

[Acidburn]

Looking good with a lot of progress done. keep at it and it will be on the road in no time.

[Error404]

Putting the interior back in i remembered this redundant black plug i'd spotted taking it all apart.. any idea what its for? Is part of the loom for the VDOs by the look of it



S2 door cards in




most of interior back in and starting to look more like a car than a scrap heap
Dash trim panel sprayed black while i look out for faux leather or carbon.
Also on the lookout for some white VDOs - anyone know if they are the same plug connectors etc?




On the lookout for some new seats, grey or black I think
... rear is looking bare!!



Existing seats and door cards are scrap as far as i'm concerned - they make me sick

[Error404]

After giving the brakes a good bleed and taking the car for a little test drive i discovered the brakes we non existant and i could feel the PAS pump modulating the brake pedal due to a duff servo I know the bomb is pretty much a write off too, so i decided to replace both with better condition used parts.

Did the servo today - not that pleasant a job, but had it off and all back together in about 2.5 hours - too too bad considering i was hungover!

Becasue i couldn't find repalcements for a CQ 20v, I got a replacement master cylinder, servo and bomb from a 90 20v, so was fairly sure they would share the same setup.

This came out:


Leaving this!


The servos are the same between the 90 20v and the CQ20 - only the date stamp to tell between them


The master cylinders are different however - CQ20 on the left, 90 20v on the right.


The CQ has a brake pressure reglator bolted to the master cylinder - is this the same as the S2?


All refitted.


Just need to repalce the bomb next weekend and give the brakes and the Pentosin a flush and bleed.


What are people thoughts on refilling the master cylinder - i was a bit worried the seals might get ******ed if i pumped it before the fluid had filled it - any suggestions?

[Cullam3n]

bleed the master cylinder first mate using the bleed screw on the cylinder before you start pressing the pedal. You should really bleed the system first anyway.

the connector in the first pic is for the aux gauges, I will get you the pinout

[Cullam3n]

This is from a v6 (not sure if it's different)

Ok, I'll answer my own question. After a lot of tracing, here's the revised pinout for those who want to know...

Pin 1 - Gray/Blue; Dashboard lamps dimmer (variable)
Pin 2 - Blue/White; Oil pressure sensor
Pin 3 - Brown; Earth
Pin 4 - Gray/Brown; Lights on +12v
Pin 5 - Green/Black; Oil temp sensor
Pin 6 - Black/Blue; Ignition On +12v

I don't really know why the pod wants the lights-on +12v on Pin4. Maybe it's the later-model version of the relay-based 'booster' the earlier pods have. In any case, it all works perfectly.

For those who want to do this to their car, here's the wiring connections that I used. I managed to get a spare inner harness that has the white 6-pin connector, so I cut it out of the spare harness and used the wires to splice in to my existing one. Why didn't I just swap harnesses? My car has an airbag and the spare harness didn't, so swapping harnesses would have been a drama. I also noticed some subtle difference in some of the 'always live', 'Ignition on' power (the cigarette lighter, for example), so I decided to leave well enough alone.

Pin 1 - I soldered this lead on to the pigtale lead on the cigarette lighter illumination.
Pin 2 - Plugged in to the 2-pin plug from the engine harness that was sitting under the carpet near the duct for the under-seat heating.
Pin 3 - Soldered this on to the brown lead on the cigarette lighter plug. Removing the pin from the plug to facilitate soldering is very easy.
Pin 4 - Ran this lead all the way back to the fuse box and simply snapped the terminal in to the connector. If you don't have an original harness to chop up like I had, these terminals can be obtained from Audi.
Pin 5 - As per Pin 2
Pin 6 - Soldered on to the Black/Blue on the cigaretter lighter as per the procedure for Pin 3. If your ciggie lighter has a Red/Blue, that means it's on all the time, so hunt for a Black/Blue.

For what it's worth, the result isn't that exciting. The volts sit at 14, so that's good. At idle (850rpm) on a warm engine (90 degrees on the temp gauge), oil pressure is 2.5 bar. Anything about 1500rpm, it's at 5 bar. Oil temp eventually gets to about 100. Mind you, I haven't driven very far, but based on that, I guess my engine is pretty happy!

Oh, don't forget you'll need a different ash tray, a little trim bracket that fits above the pod, and I used the transmission-tunnel cover from a car that donate the pod to me.

[Error404]

bleed the master cylinder first mate using the bleed screw on the cylinder before you start pressing the pedal. You should really bleed the system first anyway.

the connector in the first pic is for the aux gauges, I will get you the pinout

I don't use a bleeder, i pump the new fluid through using the pedal - old skool
I do have an old fluid reservoir cap though, i could bodge something together to run off the spare tyre I suppose.

Confused by the wiring for the aux gauges - there is nothing for that 2 wire connector to plug into