20V CQ Tidy Up

[andy10v]

PS, you seem to crack the TIG out at any excuse now

Are you going to tune the Maxx ecu yourself?

[Error404]

haha
Yes any excuse to glue some metal together

I used a 1mm disc on the grinder to cut the hose. Works well, then used some av shears to trim any stragglers.

Yes hoping to get familiar with it and tune it myself

[G60Rallye]

Great progress on the car, the oil cooler install looks very nice. A grinder with a 1mm cutting disc is what I use for the braided hose, works well but does create a bit of debris which has to be cleaned out.

[Error404]

Cheers Hamish. Yes I jetted them out with brake cleaner before fitting. I was really paranoid about debris as they are post- filter so any fragments are pumped straight into the mains

[Error404]

Ok question for you AN wizards.
Will the hose reseal correctly if I disassemble the hose-end to fit some fire sleeve to the hose then reassemble it?
Or will I need to trim 1/2" off the end and refit the hose-end onto fresh hose?

[SteveH]

I've refitted mine to do the same. It's easy if you have the thin walled teflon/PTFE hose and it doesn't leak if you leave the ends without trimming back, not sure if it's the same for the thick-walled rubber stuff.

[newsh]

You can take the end off but you can't remove the olive from the end of the hose and then re-use it as its diameter gets crushed slightly and it won't fit back over the inner, you have to use a new one.

[Error404]

Thanks chaps
I'm using the hi-flow hose ends with rubber type hose rather than the PTFE stuff.
I will give it a try and see how I get on, not a major drama to redo them if they leak. Hell, they might leak anyway as I don't know what I'm doing

[GazzaG60]

looks good alex.

nice detail. lots of work.

I used the lugs on the xmember to mount my cooler and I have that orange firesleeve stuff on the lines. it was on the cooler already when I got it from a mate. mine was off a Scooby and ive seen flames here before.

nice cable work too. I just cut mine fit it to the manifold and crimp brake line in the straight section.

whats with the maxx?

[GazzaG60]

on the bonnet alex don't cut it. some do.

I found that removing the plastic edge and using a panel hammer on the right spot did it easily. no issue.

[Error404]

Cheers Gaz.
Yes I need to cut the plastic trim at the front, I don't think there is any need to modify the bonnet itself but this is one of my next jobs.
MaxxECU was due to wanting to calibrate it myself and not being able to decode and tune Motronic. Only Automark will do it ow in the UK and by the time I'd traveled and paid for a map I was well over half way to paying for a standalone setup. It seemed like a real good package for the money and the M-tune interface is really nice. I figured if I can't make it work I'll just get Jonus to do it

[Thuppu]

Also I have ordered a Maxx ECU

Way to go Alex! You will not be disappointed.

[GazzaG60]

whats the cost and options?

what reasons over vems or others for maxx.

on the bonnet I found it was clear but would catch occasionally on return so in effect throttle stuck. had to do lots of tests to get this. worth an extensive test. I know some catch some don't. I put some paint marker on the throttle cam and closed bonnet. it marked the arc leaving a thick spot at stuck point. it don't catch on the old style bonnet at all.

looking very good though.

[Error404]

Hey Gaz, must have missed this. Yeah basically I looked at VEMS but everyone seems to have a least one or two bugs at any one time, the speed is slow compared and I didn't like VemsTune.
Plus I got a really good deal on the MaxxECU kit complete with Bosch LSU, EGT sensor, oil pressure sensor etc all thrown in

So I've got the last few bits done now:

Modded the Wagner ISV pipe. The tab for the dipstick tube was a bit crude, so I tapped a little ally block and bolted through it, making a stud to attach it to neatly.
no the best pics, but you get the idea:

Before:

Dipstick Fitment.JPG


Spacer:

Dipstick Spacer.JPG


After:

Dipstick Spacer Fitted.JPG


Lastly the wiring. My injector harness was pretty crusty so I chopped it up. Jointed in new wire for the injectors, hall sensor and also integrated the IAT wiring into the same harness:

Injector Wiring 1.JPG


Finished with some Raychem DR-25 with epoxy resin joints

Injector Harness Repaired.JPG


Welded the hall sensor bracket to the lifting eye, fits nicely

Hall Sensor Bracket.JPG


All done

F7D77EF7-87E4-41FA-85DA-86CAAAD94B6A_zpsxy1tohjs.JPG


Not had a chance to drive it yet, need to do a boost leak test and then some shake down. Then will I be going to see Danny @ DNA and we will put it on the dyno and see if the Wagner reverse kit makes any difference on the standard turbo

Don't really like the finish on the Wagner inlet so I will repaint that when the engine comes out to fit the MD357 later this year.

I plan to enjoy the car over the summer and do some track days, then fit the turbo and map the car over the winter.

[A80Avant]

If you didn't use a phenolic spacer you will be alarmed with what you will see on the IAT sensor although I noticed you are still using the stock one so the steps will be by 7deg. In summary the head gets hot and the inlet hotter. With the phenolic spacer this gets solved but you will have to sort clearance issues