B3 Coupe quattro 32V V8

[Kieron20V]

Yeh, i know who he is, hence the suprise suprise comment. Most of the negative feedback on ebay is from poor packaging and stuff, but I have read the issues you guys have had with him, and Ill give him a wide birth for anything other than consumables.

So, i got the drivers side mount in, its pushed the engine up probably about an inch or so, the old mount had sunk so far.

Not sure wether to go for the LH mount, or do the gearbox mounts. Im tempted to do the LH gearbox mount as it looks easiest haha.

@Stiglet, I put the manifold back on, of course I took it off really only to pull out a rouge bolt i dropped in there that was making a racket.
I have been considering a megasquirt setup for a while now, not the best on the market, but its cheap and it means I can ditch the MAF setup.

Old vs New mounts


New mount in place, nice and shiny.


Easy access, probably next job.


Does any body have any tips for doing the passenger side mount, looks like it gonna be a major pain in the ***.

Cheers,
Kieron.

[stiglet]

The engine pass side? Take the radiator out. I think that makes it much easier.

[Flat on my back]

.

Extesion bar and a UJ...worked fine for me...rad stayed in.

[Kieron20V]

Well what can I say, apart from WOW.

Ive done both engine mounts, and both gearbox mounts, the difference is unbelievable.

There's a lot more vibration in the car now, but nothing I cant deal with. If anything, it turns the whole car into a big 5 cylinder speaker.
I never wanted this to be a quite car anyway, hence the choice of parts thus far. Definitely worth the effort in my opinion.

Im gonna drop the oil now, long overdue. After maybe I will give the rear end a start, diff side mounts, maybe the centre mount depending on time.

Cheers for you input guys, appreciated.
Another happy 20Ver.

[stiglet]

Glad you like it. If you had gone for the solid diff and GB mounts too you'd have a transmission whine to add to that 5-pot vibration too!

[Kieron20V]

Stiglet,
I couldnt justify the extra cost of the motorsport tranny mounts, at nearly 3x the cost of the density line ones. It adds up when buying all four at once.

Had a bit of a hiccup taking the lh engine mount out, one of the captive bolts decided it didnt want to be captive anymore. Managed to just about grab hold of it from above, then pressed it back in with a big hammer and an extension bar.

Ive got a few more issues to take car of, the big breather pipe coming from the lh side of the block has gone all soft and collapsed. I have a new one from 034 to fit, but theres not much room down there. Ill leave that for tomorrow I thinks.

Stiglet, do you have any other mods to your car? Sounds like were thinking somewhere along the same lines.

Cheers,
Kieron.

[stiglet]

Only difference between yours and mine is a Whiteline RARB, 034 delrin bushes on the diff and wishbones and the 034 short shift kit. Got the promount top mounts on the front, and the rose jointed inner tie rods. Also been messing around with some ball joint extenders but that's a whole different story Otherwise identical. Got the ally flywheel to go on when I get access to a lift. At the moment i'm convinced it's underpowered due to fueling and/or a vacuum leak somewhere. Loads of little jobs to do!

So far I've only thought about handling mods really, and haven't done much to the engine. What are your plans for the brakes if any? I've got some ideas for brake ducting but otherwise still using the standard G60's. with some uprated pads.

[stiglet]

Forgot to mention I've got the same problem with that breather hose. The one on the passenger side back of the engine? Didn't know 034 did a replacement!

[Error404]

Good work Keiron
I see you had the same fun and games as me with the passenger side engine mount bolts!

You can get a metal replacement for that crank case breather btw, its a PITA to get to down there, but doable without taking the rad out if you undo the FPR and the loom bracket. Make sure you give the metal breather hose that runs to the intake trunk a good clean out too

Al - I found that replacing the breather and vacuum hoses and a couple of cracked hoses around the ISV made a big differece to the general running and economy and performance
Have you checked your knock sensors too? I had a dodgy one that didn't show up on the blink codes, I only found it through a process of elimination

[stiglet]

I've gone around the ISV area with some sealing tape on all the joints and dodgy connections. Got loads of iffy hoses which need replacing. You're probably right though, i need to replace all the hoses and have a good clean out. I can hear a hissing coming from somewhere and it's driving me crazy! When summer comes around I can finally get to sorting that entire mess up

[Error404]

haha, yup its really irritating trying to find the source of the problems, thats why I did the lot in one go lol.
Might be worth replacing the TB and IM gaskets too perhaps? IIRc they're not expensive

[stiglet]

Already done the gaskets when I did my manifold change. I think it's coming from the breather hose at the back of the engine.

I could try sealing the entire engine bay...

[Kieron20V]

Forgot to mention I've got the same problem with that breather hose. The one on the passenger side back of the engine? Didn't know 034 did a replacement!

Yeh I thankfully noticed it before I put in my big order with 034.

Linky to Breather pipe. Only $25 and its made from good stuff too.

Brake wise, im not too sure yet. Ive fitted some redstuff pads and some second hand diamondblack discs. They seem alright, havent experienced any fade, I tried my best on the longest bit of "test track" round the airport, up and down at least 10x, about 80 to 10mph. I had some cheapo generic pads on the standard discs before, and they were ship.


Talking power wise, I dont think theres much to be had with the stock hitachi ECU. Ditching the MAF meter is definitely the way to go, its tiny compared to the rest of the intake tract. Ive read about the V6 MAF swap, but I dont see how the engine can take advantage of this without a remap, as WOT is open loop and fueling is not governed by what the MAF sees.

Im not sure what to do yet, it will either be the easy way, go down the turbo route, or what id rather do is keep it normally aspirated. Higher compression and higher revving is the way to go.

Im going to be due a head rebuild at some point in the future as the car is starting to burn oil and I suspect the valve stem seals. I might take the opportunity to drop in some oversized valves, lightweight lifters, new retainers etc etc.

Definitely a watch this space on the engine front, but priorities are to get everything solid again, and get it back on the road.


Cheers,
Kieron.

[Jersey90TQ]

Nice work.. and good choice of parts

now get yourself a nice set of coilovers and an upgraded rear sway bar and it will handle amazing

[Error404]

Coilover and UK roads don't really mix

I love to see a 7A revving to 9k with some lumpy cams and some throttle bodies