B3 Coupe quattro 32V V8

[stiglet]

Yep they are a c*nt. You need a really big hammer and a sense of humour.

[madwolf_Uk]

Yep they are a c*nt. You need a really big hammer and a sense of humour.

Strangely enough, having done them once with ure help mate, second time around wasnt so bad tbh, still not my fav job though

[Kieron20V]

Done the other side today, a bit quicker than yesterday, but still a pain in the ***. Car feels a lot less woolly now, would feel a lot more planted if the subframe was screwed down tighter.

Also had a clear out in the car today, been using it as a shed really while its been off the road. I managed to find £54 odd today in the car and in clothes that were about to get washed, so thats money I didnt think I had. Hells yeah.

Ive ordered up new bolts for the subframes, to collect on tuesday so I shall be dropping both subframes during the week.
Will do the rear first so I can remove the rear diff bush and send it to a kind gentleman on here who is swapping my powerflex for a 034 delrin one. Wooo.

Ive also sourced a 27mm front anti roll bar, but im putting off fitting that until I have found something suitable for the rear.

Also bought a set of coil over converted strut housings from a guy on here (vagrallye) they should arrive sometime next week.
I wont be fitting them for a while until I can afford new dampers, not sure wether to go for Konis, or splash out on bilstiens. Anybody out there converted to coilovers? Recommendations for dampers?

Ive also fixed my leaky exhaust, it was blowing at the join from the cat pipe to the centre box, pulled them off and refitted with plenty of hermetite. Job done.
Ive got a rear brake hard-line to replace that was snagged up as an advisory last MOT, then hopefully it will pass.

Ive put up some bits and bobs for sale too, nothing too special but I need some room.

I think thats it for now.

[Kieron20V]

27.04

Well what a miserable day today was.

Started with removing the rear subframe.
Much enjoyment to be had laying in the rain. Woo woo.

Ran into a few problems, both the rear track arm ball joints came loose from their tapers, which made removing them a right pain. Much clampage and swearing later, they are both off. Looks like I'll be needing a new one on the LH side as the boot is shot. Does anybody know if these boots are available separately? cant find anything in etka, only lists the whole arm. Seems an expensive way of doing things.

Got the pinch bolts out of the hub housings, just need to borrow my mates 17foot long pry bar to break them free.

So hopefully it will be down tomorrow, then I can strip it. Im thinking of sending it to the local sandblasters to clean it up, then it will get a lick of POR15, and new ally bushes.

No pics for today, didnt really feel like it.

Thats it for today, im damp cold and in need of a beer.

Kieron.

[Acidburn]

Have a look at error404's thread you should be able to get the boots seperately.

[Error404]

I couldn't find one the right size for the rear tie rod but i'm sure they do exist somewhere - i took a good boot off an old tie rod in the end

[AndyP]

I used these when I did mine

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-ball-joint-...713.m153.l1262

They are a little on the large side and I couldn't get the retaining clip back on them so I ended up lockwireing them on.

[Kieron20V]

Excellent, just what I needed. Cheers for that Andy, I owe you a beer!

[Kieron20V]

Right, dropped the subframe tonight, went nice and smooth for a change.

Started to strip the subframe, sheared a bolt off on the anti roll bar bracket so that will need sorting tomorrow. Removed both tie rods, still not decided if im going to bite the bullet and replace them. Same with the wishbones, they look pretty tatty, gonna need some cleaning up, bushes look pretty welded in there. Might go for new lower ball joints too, might aswell while everything is off I suppose.

Burned the rubber out of the subframe bushes and knocked the inserts out, just need to cut the outer sleeves out and knock them out.

Also spotted a bulging brake flex line, might be a good time to upgrade to goodridges all round.

Time for a beer I think, this is going to get expensive.

Kieron.

[stiglet]

No messing around here

[istoo]

My understanding on the MAF isnt the readings its the increase in flow rate, the readings will be the same, but the change, or rather increase in flow will be that little bit quicker, drawings slightly more air over a given period. Much the same as Port and Polishing principles, makes a more efficient path for the volume to flow through, and usually increasing the cross sectional area a little and build up the stack, ie the have more air ready to come through and get to the throttle body and into the engine. Boring up and removing the restrictions on the MAF and TB certainly works with the 2.8. I would consider looking at the throttle body to see if it can be improved, the primary aperture ont he V6 is tiny and you can enlarge it by about 25% releases a bit more torque, again but speeding up the cfm.

I see you have the 034 injectors which is also something i have noted, did you consider their ECU as well, which i believe is mapped for those injectors... but i suppose that is yet more money to spend!
With the engine runnign well a port and polish should give you notable gains on top of what you already have...

I have a spare 20v TB which I think I will ****** about with first to see if we can get any improvements. A chap on audifans did it with his 20v and seemed happy with the improvement, its a more commonplace 2.8 modification, as there is not a lot in the way of modifications for this car at all.

Would be interested to hear your before and after with the way it drives... keep it up, good read!

gorgeous elan, I see a 2+2 fairly regularly up here and its a daily runner as well.

[Kieron20V]

These ought to help

Time for an update.

Changed the crankcase breather pipe yesterday, what a PITA that was, 034 one seems to be a decent fit.

I've sent the rear subframe and 'bones to get sandblasted, as they were in a bit of a state, they will get a coat of POR15 when they come back. They guy I used is a bit on the expensive side, £30 an hour, he reckons 3+hours. Will have to shop around when i do the front.

Also, I got my 27mm front anti roll bar, the drop links that came with it arent great, they are the later plastic types, looks like there is no grease left in them. Is it possible to swap these for the steel ones, or are the plastic ones better for the larger bars?
Current one on the car is 25mm with steel drop links.





Should also be fitting these over the next few weeks!

8" springs all round, I have pairs of 350, 325, and possibly 275 lb springs. 034 track density topmounts.
I'm thinking of fitting the bigger roll bar and running the 350s on the rear with the stock roll bar for now to see how it feels.

I need to get hold of inserts too before they're fitted obvisouly, still not sure whether to go for Konis or bilsteins.

Will I be ok running standard length shocks or is this a no no on coil overs? Both manufacturers offer shorter length shocks for lowered cars, I presume I need these.


I started to remove the rear struts this afternoon, just need to get the tools to get the cup off the top so they can be dropped from the car.


Thats all for now, enjoy your long weekend!

Kieron.

[Error404]

you sure thats not an S2 bar (26mm)?
IIRC the RS2 is 28mm - never heard of a 27mm bar....

I'd definately use the RS2 steel droplinks anyhow mate

[Kieron20V]

I thought the RS2 style ones were they plastic ones? Certainly looks that way in ETKA.

To be honest I havent measured the ARB, but I was told it was 27mm. Powerflex do a 27mm rubber mount, so I guess they made one.

[S-Express]

I'd definately use the RS2 steel droplinks anyhow mate

Why? Glass filled nylon or PP has a much better strength/weight prop's than steel, its also stiffer so will flex less under load.
Why do people assume plastic is c r a p all the time?