Mr Simmonds 3B lite project.

[K Simmonds]

Minor update.

Now got all the new genuine Audi gaskets, studs, nuts and washers I require, as well as a brand spanking new throttle body hose and all new heavy duty jubilee clamps. Thus facilitating reassembly to Germanic standards with absolutely no oil weep-age from the cam cover ect. I'm going for a relativity factory looking engine bay, using a combination of new and used (but really good condition) OEM RS2 and 3B boost hoses. All the small bore stuff is being replaced with brand new black vacuum pipe. I'm also going to polish the cam cover and detail the groves in it with black paint. Might do the inlet manifold as well, but I'll see how long it takes me to do the cam cover first. I have quite a good polishing kit, however the manifold is relativity rough cast and a quite a troublesome shape compared to the cam cover.

Refitted the drip trays properly, which took a whole afternoon due to the previously mentioned botched windscreen fitting. Before they would fit correctly I had to very carefully trim loads of excess bonding from the seal/lip at the base of the screen as well as from the trays themselves. Fitted a brand new pollen filter and siliconed around the blower intake and fuse box, I'm absolutely determined to get the old girl leak free.

Started mocking up my boost gauge and Zeitronix ZT II display installation. I'm going to make a patten out of MDF that angles them both towards the driver for ease of viewing, it must also look as factory as possible. The plan is to have a local company vacuum form a panel from high quality material using my MDF patten. The Zeitronix unit will be set up to display EGT, AFR, charge temp as well as boost, I'm using the analogue boost gauge as well for at a glance reference or in case I want use the forth display option for something else, ie RPM or Lambda.

I'm also considering using a Jetex 2.75" back box to finish off the exhaust system, someone here recently got one and I like the look of it's quality and price. That said I'm toying with idea of having no back box at all to save a bit more weight, just 3" pipe straight through from the down pipe and as far as the rear axle, then go down to 2.75" to make sure I don't get any contact with the O/S rear drive shaft. I'd finish it with twin 2"/2.5" slash cut tail pipes. What I may do is give it a try and if it's to loud add a small rear silencer.

Strongly considering going VEMS sooner than planned as Peter has made me a great offer on a new kit. I like the idea of being able to tweak the set up myself especially with the cost of Motronic remaps.

The more observant of you will notice the stereo, I decided I'll still want to listen to radio four on long journeys. I've used two high quality dash speakers and deleted the ones in the the rear door cards and parcel shelf supports to keep mass down. The stereo and two speakers weights approx 3kg in total.

[K Simmonds]

Got a mega bargain industrial steam cleaner/pressure washer from the bay of thieves, one hell of a piece of kit. Also a shot of my work area.

[K Simmonds]

Minor update.

This is my final plan, I was very seriously considering going VEMS as Motronic remaps aren't cheap. However I've been doing a lot of thinking and have decided to stick with Motronic and get the car live mapped by MRC to whatever it's safely capable of producing with my current RS2+ set up then LEAVE IT ALONE. The temptation to keep going with bigger turbos, reverse inlets, ect ect ect would be too high if I went VEMS, and as fun as it would be the costs would soon get silly. The car had a full engine rebuild just before I got it and it's only covered 15K miles since so I'm loathed to strip it again just to change the rods especially as it runs very nicely at the moment. Plus I think 350+BHP and 1300kgs will be quite fast enough for day to day road and occasional track use.

I've bitten the bullet and decided to have my Nothelle k26 hybrid fully reconditioned with a 360 degree bearing, AET's couriers are picking it up in the morning and I should have it back by the end of the week. Having lashed out on all new gaskets and studs ect I figured it'd be foolish to put everything back together with a turbo that's done over 80k running 1.5 bar of boost and has play on the shaft in both aspects, especially as I'm planning on pushing the turbo to close to it's limits.

I've also whacked some standard G60's with Tarox pads and drilled disc's on the front for now as I want to do a decent job of overhauling my 330mm Alcon set up as well as reduce them down to @320mm so I can run standard wheels with tasty tyres. The Alcon's will be going back on before I get the car mapped.

Just got to make my mind up about the exhaust, tempted to go completely straight through at 3" as an experiment, bare in mind my waste gate vent's to atmosphere by the bottom of the down pipe and I have no sound insulation what so ever so it's going to be fecking loud anyway. Has anyone on here ever tried a completely straight through system? The other option I'm considering is continuing with 3" pipe straight through from the down pipe to a 2.75" Jetex rear box, probably far more sensible.


To keep entertained and distract myself from playing with the S2 once finished I've decided to build myself a budget B2/3 80/90Q 10VT sports shed, I've already sourced a great complete running MC2 motor for free (with a 100 Avant still attached). I know the 10VT is a little limited tuning wise but it cost me nothing and not only is it a bit lighter it's also easier to work on than a 20VT. I'm going to rebuild and flow the head, fit a metal head gasket, change crank seals and water pump ect inspect the bottom end and replace the shells if necessary. Done a compression test and all looks well rings/bores wise, the heads coming off in few days so I'll know more about what I'm contending with then. Once rebuilt It's going to be converted EFi as the CIS K-jet system is vastly over complicated, highly restrictive and generally pants. I've been discussing this with Peter in Hungary who I have to say is very helpful. Something in the back of mind wants me to super charge it as having the inlet manifold directly above the turbo is not ideal for inlet temps, G60 five pot would be interesting though I'm rapidly moving away from my budget ethos with these perverse thoughts. Anyway here it is. The inlet pipe work is highly improvised as a couple of the original hoses were completely shot.

[Rusty]

Nice, glad to hear someone at least try and claim they're sensible and don't need millions of ponies unter ze bonnet... it wont last of course but well done

Go for the 2.75" back box to start, don't want to be over track dB limit like Newsh, straight through defo won't pass, well designed side exit with silencer instead of cat and silencer under rear seats might be a nice option too, I'm tempted to get one done as I'm turning into more of a hooligan every time I drive it stripped... -100kg is truly a great mod

[Rusty]

Nice, glad to hear someone at least try and claim they're sensible and don't need millions of ponies unter ze bonnet... it wont last of course but well done

Go for the 2.75" back box to start, don't want to be over track dB limit like Newsh, straight through defo won't pass, well designed side exit with silencer instead of cat and silencer under rear seats might be a nice option too, I'm tempted to get one done as I'm turning into more of a hooligan every time I drive it stripped... -100kg is truly a great mod

[K Simmonds]

Yeah, I know the temptation to go mental with the S2 will always be present, but at the end of the day I want the old girl to be reliable and not too stressful to drive in traffic ect. Hence the 10VT or possibly SC diversion project.

Good point on the exhaust, a completely straight through system would sound awesome and spit loads of fire but as you say getting it on a track could be a PITA and I dare say the novelty would soon ware thin after a couple of long journeys. Jetex back box it is then.

Totally agree on the -100kg's mod, you can't get better value than completely free . Going to get mine on a weigh bridge once it's MOT'd, my calculations suggest I should be just over 1300kg's with greatly improved distribution.

[Azman]

I had a straight through 3" pipe on my old CQ20 converted to 3B. Was a tad loud till it had 3 mufflers in it. Then was just great a little boomy around 2500rpm but after that was just aural pleasure.

[K Simmonds]

Fair play someone else mad enough to give it a go, I did think it maybe a bit much. Have just this moment done a deal on exactly the Jetex back box I'm after, courtesy of another member.

[Rusty]

Should work well. Make allowance for a small inline silencer to sit where the cats would go, then you can adjust the volume depending on a) where it ends up and b) what the track you're attending wants. I have a bolt in centre section that's currently 3" stright through but can be replaced with a 2.5" and small centre silencer for reduced noise.

[lind4hl]

ehm, i had 1 sport-catalyst and 1 magnaflow 3" inlet and 2x 2,5" outlets @ rear.. with that downpipe as yo may know

And that was loud! with sound deadening etc.

also when the Wg opens

so would go for atleast 2 mufflers..

[Jamo]

Depends on what boxes you have, I have full 3" with sports cat and Milltek boxes, it's not loud, it's not boomy it just has a lovely grumble. Ask Terrybullwon

[K Simmonds]

Thanks for all input guys, Jetex 2.75" back-box now paid for and I should have it by the weekend, thanks add for the bargain deal .

From what you guys say I think I'll make provision for another light weight silencer where the cat's used to be using V-bands. I'm going to make the rest of the system myself, well I'll tack it up then get it finished by a pro.

[Error404]

Nice work Kit, sounds like its coming together nicely

Are you doing any chassis bracing on the S2?

[K Simmonds]

Cheers Alex, yep finally getting somewhere. I'm going to go for a rear strut brace using the mounts from the front of a scrap S2 Avant that a mate has. I'm picking up a MIG next week to tack my exhaust system up so I'll have a crack at the strut brace mounts once I've had some practice, I'm bit rusty on the old welding lark at the moment. I was thinking about doing something with the brace in the exhaust tunnel just not sure if it's worth it. I'm open to any other practical suggestions, though I don't want to go down the cage route with this car.

[Error404]

yeah the stock tunnel braces are pretty weak, I remade mine out of 3mm plate - but I think really you need a triangluar ladder brace across tunnel, especially on the 3B with its mega wide bits - but its only really possible with a custom made exhaust and no cat / front silencer - but it sounds like thats the route you're taking maybe?

Front lower brace between the chassis rails is a prime spot, just behind the rear mounts are on the front subframe - bit of low profile box section or pressed tube a la stock 3B brace works nicely - I just welded some M14 nuts onto a piece of 3mm plate, then cut that to suit and welded that onto the chassis rails so the brace bar is removeable.

If engine ever comes out there space to add some triangulation between the turrets / inner wings and the firewall above and below the rack would be good (on my list when i do my engine swap) - although IIRC the S2 already has something in this area?

Rear strut brace sounds ideal using the stock mounts right at the top of the strut
I am modding my bar to triangulate it to the cross member that the front edge of the fuel tank bolts into.

Also a nice easy one is stich welding the cross members in the floor pan that the front seat runner is on - these correspond roughly to where the U-shaped OEM tunnel brace is IIRC so I think it is there for a reason

Anything helps the coupe chassis TBH - its predominatly made of custard don't you know!