3b s2 coupe resurrection
Collapse
X
-
SHould that multipin connector in the top photo be plugged into the alarm? Why is there a brown mark on that connector ? Is it dirt or burnt? -
Yep, you've got it, just a case of removing the stuff that's obviously not supposed to be there and joining the OE wires back together using their colour codes as a guide. You may find you need to add some short sections of wire or the ends may well just join straight back together, depends on how much effort the fitter made. Almost all alarms/immobilisers break two or three circuits, normally starter exciter, fuel pump and/or low tension ignition.
I've had to remove alarms on many vehicles including all of my current cars, the longest ones taken me work out is 1/2 an hour, but doing a tidy job of putting things back normally takes a couple of hours with a soldering iron and heat shrink.Leave a comment:
-
I have never had anything to do with alarms.
I presume I find all the wires they have split and re connect them?
I take it they "break" feeds and then reconnect them through a relay?Leave a comment:
-
Balls!
Looking at that mess I'd say you've found your problem, I had to remove the remains of three old alarms from mine, if you go at it methodically it won't take (that) long to sort out.
I think most alarm fitters are technically 'adults in need of supervision'Leave a comment:
-
And now it doesnt start
I HATE this car at times
I have a clifford alarm (came with the car)
Normally
to start if you unlock and start straight away the car starts. If the car has been sitting unlocked for a while you turn the key to the on position, press the alarm fob, the dash lights come on and then you can start the car. If you try and start the car without pressing the fob the alarm goes off.
Now
Nothing, no start, no alarm.
Battery is ok, lights etc all work so I assume the immobilizer has shat itself.
Pulled the glove box out


Under the drivers footwell

Just looks like a cluster**** of wires, scotch locks and insulating tapes.
There are bare wires hanging loose, OE wires cut into and not reconnected
As it was working before, and now doesnt I assume I might have dislodged something, or they have tapped into something I have broken the circuit on?
Sunroof motor
roof lights (still work, I plugged it back in)
I am booked on track for Sunday, so kind of need it fixed!Leave a comment:
-
Sunroof roughly bracketed in for now


Going to seal or duct tape it for now (track day this weekend), then weld a blank in somehow when the new heated screen goes in and paint the roof.Leave a comment:
-
3b s2 coupe resurrection
Yes like that, the ISV just hangs on the pipes, it's pretty solid.Leave a comment:
-
Thanks John.
Like this?
Did you make a bracket for the FPR from the IM bolts?Leave a comment:
-
Well you lot are hardly the voice of restraint, and partly to blame I feel.....
Leave a comment:
-
I borrowed an 034/DNA 3" downpipe from martinws for a look, should be a fairly straightforward cut onto my existing 3" top section

And quattro-nick found me a wanger intake in Germany for a reasonable price, bought it and posted it on to me, huge thanks

I have the top section of a wagner hose after the throttle body coming from John, and should be able to re use a couple of bits of my existing pipework to get up from the intercooler.
I need to get
shorter PAS belt, documented by John
extend TPS, IAT and ISV wiring (where do I get suitable wire?)
make ISV extension pipe
extend throttle cable (bike cable bits?
)
Leave a comment:
-
Yeah the billet RS2 does look very appealing indeed, it's great turbo in stock form but with quicker spool and a bit more grunt again it must be truly awesome with good mapping.
The lifters I have are the full weight INA's.
Tried the catch can vented to atmosphere, seems to be fine no bad smells etc and if anything I'd say she goes better, hard to tell with a cooked clutch though.Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: