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@PRJ next time you're in town drop me a line and I'll take you for a spin, it'll shock you how a barge can handle and deliver power. ;-)
I don't think anything can shock me anymore with regards to 2.2T...
I've spent too many hours... or shall I count in days? In the passenger seat with a laptop in my hands doing 3rd gear and other pulls.
I will take you up on the offer though, I need to come back to finish Lloyd's anyway, once he sorts his issues.
In the end you've put in a huge amount of effort, and I hope that everything stays together and runs well for a long time to come.
+1. Brave pioneering work.
I would suggest to use the Billman-technique for oil level, thats how we judge it on proto engines; based on dipstick protusion into the sump and compensating for girdle height / pick up
@PRJ: I for one like your contribution, good info.
Have some questions though.
Once the MAF is maxxed out, does it use speed-density calc to determine it's air mass flow?
You mention wrong DC for wastegate, does wrong mean natural system frequency messing around?
Once the MAF is maxxed out, does it use speed-density calc to determine it's air mass flow?
No, flow just pegs.
MAP sensor is used only for boost control. The fuelling is alpha-n in case MAF is absent.
You mention wrong DC for wastegate, does wrong mean natural system frequency messing around?
There is a map for base WG DC for rpm and throttle position, and same for boost. Plus PID controller settings.
If you get the WG DC wrong, your boost will be all over the place. Closed loop is there to take care of gearing, be more stable to fluctuations and improve spool in higher gears.
Looks like Audi didn't save on hardware & software calibration at that time.
I'm still puzzled by the fact that you know how to find the right maps/scalars within that locked environment and without a manual... (i assume )
It's time for some open source motronic a lá Hondata/Nistune.
Looks like Audi didn't save on hardware & software calibration at that time.
I'm still puzzled by the fact that you know how to find the right maps/scalars within that locked environment and without a manual... (i assume )
ASM baby... and no, I don't have a manual.
It's time for some open source motronic a lá Hondata/Nistune.
No you lack the connection @ Bosch to become a copy of that manual, unlike a certain tuner (just finished reading this, like i lack the skills to crack an EEPROM, i can only flash...) I really must say i am impressed by the fact that you were capable of learning all this within 1,5 years.
But make it fast please, i'm about to budge for another far to expensive aftermarket product while we have a very competent ECU as OEM fitted.
Thankyou all for info re ECUs. Likewise the link it made for interesting reading.
I'm glad the car was left in very capable hands on that front as it's out of my scope of things I have time to learn within my current life's 27hr days.
I can also hold my hand up high and say I made a tiny booboo on the oil filling side of things.
Today I ran the car up to temp and drained the oil once warm to ensure it drained 100% or as close as with a jack under one side.
Once drained I fitted a fresh filter and carefully metered out 4.5ltrs. Made sure the car was as level as I could get it and ran her up for a minute or two. Shut her down and let her sit for quarter of an hour.
Went back to look at the dipstick and checked the level. I can confirm rather embarrassingly that I've been over filling her. My idea of using the diesel dipstick and tube was spot on what I messed up on is the height of the girdle as the oil level was sitting exactly the thickness of the girdle +2mm below the max mark. The 2mm obviously being the difference in the capacity between the AAN sump and the stock diesel sump.
Well took the car out for a blast and no oil in the catchtank so problem solved :-D
Going to get on and make the dyno vid over the next day or two and maybe if the roads dry enough try and take it for a blast on a local private stretch with a gtech to check the 0-60 and quarter times
Thankyou all for info re ECUs. Likewise the link it made for interesting reading.
I'm glad the car was left in very capable hands on that front as it's out of my scope of things I have time to learn within my current life's 27hr days.
I can also hold my hand up high and say I made a tiny booboo on the oil filling side of things.
Today I ran the car up to temp and drained the oil once warm to ensure it drained 100% or as close as with a jack under one side.
Once drained I fitted a fresh filter and carefully metered out 4.5ltrs. Made sure the car was as level as I could get it and ran her up for a minute or two. Shut her down and let her sit for quarter of an hour.
Went back to look at the dipstick and checked the level. I can confirm rather embarrassingly that I've been over filling her. My idea of using the diesel dipstick and tube was spot on what I messed up on is the height of the girdle as the oil level was sitting exactly the thickness of the girdle +2mm below the max mark. The 2mm obviously being the difference in the capacity between the AAN sump and the stock diesel sump.
Well took the car out for a blast and no oil in the catchtank so problem solved :-D
Going to get on and make the dyno vid over the next day or two and maybe if the roads dry enough try and take it for a blast on a local private stretch with a gtech to check the 0-60 and quarter times
Did you measure how much oil was in the engine before?
@Billman no but I know looking at where the level is noe and how much I had to top it up by to get to max level I was getting on close to 6ltrs. It'd literally throw it straight out when thrashing it. If it wasn't for the fact that I used a part used oil container when filling and the oil cooler was empty I would've probably taken more note. Like I say to people leave me to work on the block and head but keep cars away from me :-P
@A80Avant, don't see the point in guessing virtual dyno fig's using a gtech when I had the car on a real dyno whose numbers have always been spot on especially when using those numbers to work out expected real world 1/4mile times?
Using a gtech in my car will always give skewed tq results purely because it squads so hard under acceleration to the extend I run caravan spring assisters to try and alleviate it. So a gtech meter will give false figures as if you're going up a hill. Whereas the quarter mile and 0-60 gives it a rough ballpark figure but again nothing to write home about.
@A80Avant, don't see the point in guessing virtual dyno fig's using a gtech when I had the car on a real dyno whose numbers have always been spot on especially when using those numbers to work out expected real world 1/4mile times?
Using a gtech in my car will always give skewed tq results purely because it squads so hard under acceleration to the extend I run caravan spring assisters to try and alleviate it. So a gtech meter will give false figures as if you're going up a hill. Whereas the quarter mile and 0-60 gives it a rough ballpark figure but again nothing to write home about.
True regarding vehicle squat and the G-Tech. However, a G-Tech 4th gear pull should provide some pretty accurate results as peak G should be below 0.5 in that gear.
WHP numbers from a 3rd gear run and WTQ figures from a 4th gear run to say 5500rpm is a good combination, as it limits the speed required (approx. 100mph in 3rd) and 4th gear provides decent load for a good WTQ figure.
Vagcom generated data will not be affected by vehicle squat, so that should work fine, and will most likely lowball the numbers as the resolution is horrible (around 3hz) and that will smooth the peak numbers.
FATS (Vagcom timed 4200-6500rpm in 3rd) will work too and is very real world (approx 60-90mph).
The more road data that we have to compare with MRC's excellent dyno, the better
1995 RS2 on Alcohol (6.8sec 100-200km/h)
1994 80E Avant
1986 2L Golf 2 on Alcohol
all im saying is that we have data for several cars now and would be nice to compare road results rather than dyno ones. Sure i have my car dynoed as well, but i only believe results from the road as being more true, so long as i am accurate on my assumptions(or at least always the same). I make those assumptions and not a dyno controller who i have to trust, so that is why i believe the road is the true tester.
This is not to prove anything in regards to the power of the car, but merely for the fun of it!!
On the note of accuracy though, my dyno dynamics dyno vs my virtual dyno had only 15hp difference, so id say its pretty damn accurate!
If someone local has vagcom I'll quite happily do that as I wouldn't know how to do the fats no.s.
Come Feb/March I'll be doing the 30-130 event which is measured on gps performance box's. And hopefully next month santa pod will be open so again I'll have some more data then too.
I tried the gtech when I had 520hp and really struggled on consistent results in the real world based on either slope of road, length of road or traction of road. So I doubt it'll be any better now, worked fine when I had traction and 280hp though
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