Projekt Alpinweiss V - Rebuilding the new engine...

[Rusty]

Was waiting for the new tappets to quieten down and making sure it didn't blow a coolant hose first

[Greg_S]

Glad to hear it's all back together. Which magnets are you getting?

[Rusty]

Here's how it sits at the mo



There are some cleaning and painting jobs to finish but they're accessible, so I've decided to just get it back on the road and sort them out later...

Things left to do are

• Refit the front of the car...
• Check everything over
• Bleed and top up the coolant etc.
• Adjust the brake and clutch pedals
• Stop the (!) on the dash...
• Test drive

I need to clean up the MAF housing and the a few of the clips (I may replace with stainless), finish off the engine bay cleaning and I may replace the header tank & rad and go to waterless coolant at some point... oh, and 101 things I've forgotten about.

Now to update my spreadsheet and 6 page work to do document... which I've not looked at since I wrote it to get a parts list

[Error404]

Looks great mate, you must be really pleased with it.
Get an OEM header tank ~ £45. The aftermarket ones i.e. Febi are *****.

[Rusty]

It was a new header from Audi about 8 years ago. I'll get a new one when I've run it for a bit, considering a large core rad and waterless coolant too, no real reason

Done 45 miles so far Changed the oil (Millers CRO 10W40 running in oil) and filter after 10 and there was nothing in the oil that concerned me. Not cut open the filter as I ran out of cutting discs when doing the servo conversion, so I'll do both with some new discs.

Got the clutch and brake pedal heights adjusted but they need a turn or two to get them perfect.

Getting used to the brakes with vacuum assistance, or lack of. Gone is the spongy pedal that was heavily assisted, instead replaced with a firm pedal that needs a shove but can be modulsted.

The clutch is lighter than I thought it would be, so not sure if there's a difference between ABY and 3B actuating mecvhasnism.

Only thing I'm not grinning about is the drtivekinbe vibration at about 1500 rpm. I had hoped it would go with a balanced engine but if anything it's worse... New mounts may fix it a bit while adding some NVH

[Error404]

Drive train vibration you have is the SM flywheel gear rattle I'd guess.

[AndyP]

Does it stop at 2000rpm? As Alex said it's most likely the SM flywheel, but that is more of a rattle than a vibration, on mine anyway.

[Error404]

Have to say mine was far more noticeable after I build my engine, perhaps getting the bottom end balanced makes the torsional pulses more pronounced?

[Rusty]

It was similar on the old engine when I went to a 3B FW from the ABY behemoth DM FW and seems to have changed rpm a little with the lightweight SM FW. Not driving it the same at the moment so impossible to tell exactly.

The new toys and a healthy engine have made the car feel like it's straining to take off! Looking forward to getting it run in... and maybe a k26/27 billet on there

[Error404]

He he yeah do it

[Rusty]

Vibration is gone after 1800 rpm and then all is smooth

[Error404]

Yup for sure it sounds like gear rattle. I assume the lighter rotating mass will change the frequency and so change the revs it happens between a little.
Something to live with unfortunately

[SteveH]

Add some solid engine mounts and your teeth will rattle with it in sympathy!

[Rusty]

Doing that. I've already ruined any comfort so might as well plough on. You need to try track day tyres if you want a truly awful ride comfort.

[gnutz2]

I've had what I'd call transmission chatter at light loads on my car for years, come to think of it, it probably started around the time I replaced the dual mass with a single mass, I just never connected the two together and over time become used to it.