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  • #16
    Check out Tonks threads sure he's done a few of these

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    • #17
      Cheers lads.

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      • #18
        here some pictures of my b2 screwed alu roll cage

        http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...=alu+roll+cage

        is your roll cage for road or track use?
        an iron welded roll cage is obviously the best,i know
        audi coupe quattro b2 2.2 20vt project (573hp-626nm)
        TWINCHARGED power,zero lag
        AEM W/M injection

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        • #19
          Nick the cage is approved for msa fia events as it's proper 45mm by 2.5 cda but I will just use the car for track days and a cage is not required for these. I will have a read through your thread. Cheers des .

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          • #20
            Ok here is today's update. I removed the petrol tank today and it stinks!! It must be rusting inside as the old fuel came out with bits in. I was going to get a fuel cell type tank anyhow.

            I then cut out the rear bulkhead and parcel shelf area with the plasma cutter. It's a great piece of kit!



            Clear view to the rear now.



            I ******* about for about 3 hours with the roll cage. I have the front hoop and main hoop fitting fine now though I will need to make some footplates as I don't like the ones supplied. Need to get some 3mm plate for that. As for the rest of the bits I just can't make any real sense of them. Custom cages send me 2 drawings but they don't add up to what I have in parts.




            I seem to have parts that are someway similar to this.

            http://rollcages.eu/quattro/27-audi-...-cage-cds.html

            But it really doesn't add up. For a start I have 4 door bars which I assumed were for the crossover x style. But the 4 bars are exactly the same in every way eg length and notch style. They are notched in such a way that they won't go at a angle and want to be level. 2 are marked as lower and 2 as main. So should I put the lower ones at sill level and the main ones higher up?

            The next 2 bars are called hoop to hoop which I assume go at roof level between the front and main hoops. They arnt notched at all so I will need to cut to suit.

            Then from there back everything is a total mystery!! I have 2 bars that just have a 90 degree bend near their end which looks like the one here.

            http://rollcages.eu/quattro/27-audi-...-cage-cds.html

            It seems to maybe go from from strut tower to the main hoop but I'm not sure how strong it will be due to that 90 bend.

            Next suspect is 2 more bars marked rear stay. Again I have no clue were these go. Last but not least is a rear diagonal which might go from the main hoop to the opposite rear strut. Maybe.

            So I'm thinking as the rear bit is a complete guessing game I might just make my own setup at the rear. I did order a few extra straight lengths so was thinking of making 2 bits that come from the main hoop down to the rear strut without the crap looking bend. Then a strut brace between the rear struts. And maybe a few diagonal bits hear and there.

            In for a penny...

            So after getting frustrated with the cage I got the s2 front and rear subframes blasted.



            As the subframes will be taking some abuse I seam welded them and bulked up some other welds. There was obviously some crap between the 2 parts of the subframe were it was spot welded so the weld was a bit splattery but it's a big improvement over the spot welds. I have a bit more subframe welding to do but I ran out of mig wire and it was 12 hours in the garage by then.



            It's slow progress.

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            • #21
              Both subframes are now welded and ready for paint. So I decided to get on and just fit the cage my way. I made my own footplates which are over twice the msa minimum size and fit better than the supplied ones. I tacked the front and rear hoops where I wanted them and then tacked in the hoop to hoop bars. These needed a fair bit of trimming to fit. They will be welded proper when the cage is dropped through the floor. I then boxed in one of the rear turrets.

              Before



              After



              It's done in 6 mm plate and ain't shifting. I then made a stay to go from the main hoop to the new box.



              I just need to repeat on the other side now. I also need to fit some diagonals and a strut brace. And door bars. The door bars will be much easier done at low and mid level as compared to doing an X so I might just leave the X setup. I need to tidy and complete all the welds when the cage is dropped and then weld up the floor and but the heavy foot plate in.

              It's slow work but I enjoy it now it's finally looking like it will come together.



              I also set one of the seats in to get some idea were it needs it's brackets mounted.



              Will get back to it on Monday and hopefully break it's back then.

              Cheers des

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              • #22
                I got the other rear strut bar fitted and the other strut tower boxed in. Then cut holes in the floor and properly welded the top bits of the cage. Also added a diagonal in the roof between the 2 hoops.





                My dad gave a hand and was flat out painting the cage as it will be hard to get some of it when it's lifted up again. He also painted the subfames.

                Plan for tomorrow is to get it lifted up in and start adding braces and diagonals.
                Attached Files

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                • #23
                  Raised the cage back up into the car and repaired the floor and fitted the footplates. Then started welding everything back together. Added a diagonal and 2 b pillar floor to rear tower supports. Also added a b piller to b pillar strut and tied it into the tunnel. Starting to get low on cda tube so have ordered more. Will leave the door bars for a while as they will make getting in and out a ******.

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                  • #24
                    Got the msa type seat bars welded in and then ran out of gas again. Then got some 2 pack epoxy paint on the rear of the inside. It's slow work.



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                    • #25
                      Both subframes and running gear removed. Exhaust removed. Brake and fuel pipes removed. Just needs any loose paint and seam sealer removed and it's **** painted.






                      Most of the inside is painted now too.

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                      • #26
                        Floor painted in 2 pack epoxy. Front subframe solid mounted. Some of alberts AKmotorsport.net super sexy audi group b replica arms fitted with proper joints etc. Starting to put stuff on now not take off.







                        Last edited by diesel des; 29 July 2015, 07:53.

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                        • #27
                          Looks good, any pictures of how you boxed in the hoop foot plates?
                          Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon

                          Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
                          Sold ABY-stock

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                          • #28
                            I will get some snaps but basic the cage goes down onto the floor plate which is bent to go on the floor and up the sill. It's over twice the msa 120cm 2 . Also I have a plate welded to this plate and it goes up to the rear step part on the floor.

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                            • #29
                              I dropped the subframe again and got 3 coats of 2 pack paint the colour of the car on the underside and the wheel arches.





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                              • #30
                                Front and rear hubs stripped and shot blasted. Front ones painted and ready for machined flanges to mount audi and jap wheels. Will have 10 holes, 5 audi pcd and 5 at 114.3mm pcd.







                                The rear ones ready for machining to fit uprated cv joints with big bearing.



                                New 3 way kw adjustable suspension arrived from albert at AKmotorsport.net. He got me a great price on these.



                                I have them fitted with solid caster and camber adjusting top mounts again from AKmotorsport.net . No rubber in the suspension cause rubber is just for gimps. Lol









                                Rear subframe mounted with solid mounts and ready for the bottom arms and hubs once they are machined.

                                Tomorrow the front flanges and rear hubs are going to the machine shop for modification. If I get the rear flanges I need it might be on its wheels by next weekend.

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