So after filling the rear diff with oil I have a slight weep at the lever for the diff lock. Is there a seal in there or is it just the bellows that is ment to keep the oil in? Cheers des
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Sorted the weep at the diff by tightening the clip at the bellows.Third solid diff mount made and fitted.
Fitted rear strut brace to the cage and also a diagonal on the main hoop. Then did the passage side door bars complete with gusset.
Gusseted the a piller too.
Other than drivers door bars I think that's it for the cage. Not sure I need to x brace the main hoop. Might just be overkill.
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Thanks Andy.
I'm going to bolt a plate to the original seat belt points on the b pillar as it twin skinned and then weld that plate to the main hoop. If I just weld a plate to the b pillar I will only pick up on the outer skin.
I'm not sure about the harness mounts yet, I'm thinking of using the rear strut brace though it might just be a bit far away. If so I will have to weld in another bar between the diagonal braces that go from the main hoop to the rear turrets.
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Ivan byd1380 got my wheels blasted and powder coated. Got the yokohama tyres fitted. Looking great.
Got the rear hubs modified for the bigger front wheel bearings to take the larger cv joints. Pressed on a steel collar to strengthen them and tack welded it to be sure it won't shift.
Pressed the bearings in and painted them.
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Yes I'm running custom made drive shafts that are made in a Russian tank factory. They allow a front outer cv joint to be used on the rear. They are very heavy and well made!
Stock s2 rear vs new custom.
CV joint size comparison.
New shafts built up.
Fitted the painted modified rear hubs.
Back almost complete. Just need to tighten bolts etc. Alberts AKmotorsport.net suspension parts fit great.
I need rear brakes. Thinking something like urs4 or a8 calipers on spacers with 300 to 320mm vented disks. Anyone do anything like this? Don't think I want or need 4 pot rears.
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Yep dual pcd hubs now. Stock m14 5 x 112 Audi and m12 5x 114.3. Gives more options. I need to play with rear suspension geometry as I seem to have loads of toe in with the toe adjustmentset almost full toe out and about 2 degrees negative camber with the bottom ball joint mostly in. Sliding that uniball ballljoint out on my fancy arm will give me more toe out but too much negative camber. Is this an issue running s2 gear in a urq? Eg are the strut towers more inboard on a urq? What have I missed?
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Today I set the rear alignment into the ballpark. Went with zero toe and 1.5 degrees negative camber as a starting point. Then I stripped the aby quick ratio steering rack to convert it to manual steering.
I welded up the 2 shafts so there is no play and the dogs don't take the strain as they can crack!
Then I cleaned and painted the rack.
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Ok so I have been messing with a rear brake setup. I have made a bracket to fit transporter van rear calipers inc handbrake with 312 x 25 mm discs. The calipers are big and have a large pad area so should give way more rear breaking than required. If its designed to stop the back of a transporter with 1800kg axle weight then the back of a URQ should be fine.
This is a picture with some 280 odd mm discs I had lying around.
They obviously need cleaned and painted but will do that when the correct discs come after final fitment.
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As I really don't like the way the Sachs race engineering sintered paddle clutch drives in my urs4 I had a company make me a twin plate Kevlar clutch for it. I will fit it and then use the Sachs paddle jib in the quattro. The Sachs clutch holds the torque fine but its just so juddery to drive in town. Ideal for the Quattro though.
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