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  • maiks
    replied
    Has anyone done this test? I measured mine and got 2400 ohms.

    Across Pins 2 and 3 on the switch:
    Throttle closed = 750 to 1300 ohms
    As throttle is opened from closed to WOT = increase to 3600 ohms
    If NO, replace sensor.







    G69/F60 Throttle position switch:
    The pin-out on this connector (Based on Pg. X56 in Vol.3 of the Bentley) and the G69/F60 is as follows:
    Pin 1: A red wire that also connects to T12/55 in the ECU which provides 5V+ to the G69/F60 combination
    as well as the F96 Barometric Pressure Sensor and the G40 Cam Position sensor. (Note: The Bentley
    incorrectly calls the Pressure Sensor the "G16" but there is no such "G16" device for the AAN).
    Pin 2: Green wire with a Black stripe - goes to ground connection 5 in the engine harness.
    Pin 3: Gray wire connected to pin T53/55 in the ECU - the signal is the 5V+ modified by the variable
    resistor in the throttle position switch which tells the ECU the degree to which the throttle body is open,
    which helps the ECU compute "load".
    Pin 4: Brown wire with a red stripe, goes to ground connection 2 in the engine harness.
    Pin 5 - not used
    Pin 6 - Violet (purple) wire that connects to pin T52/55 in the ECU that tells the ECU that the throttle is
    closed (via the microswitch in the diagram shown above).
    Testing the F60 Closed Throttle (Idle) Switch is as follows:
    Across Pins 4 and 6 on the switch:
    Closed = 0 ohms (continuity)
    Open throttle (slightly) = infinite ohms (open)
    If either fails, adjust switch as per procedure above.
    Testing the G69 Throttle Position Potentiometer:
    Across Pins 1 and 2 on the switch:
    Must be 1500 to 2600 ohms
    Across Pins 2 and 3 on the switch:
    Throttle closed = 750 to 1300 ohms
    As throttle is opened from closed to WOT = increase to 3600 ohms
    If NO, replace sensor.

    Leave a comment:


  • maiks
    replied
    Thanks Dave!

    But to understand better I made some photos.

    Front panel size before, marked green lines.


    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    C4 Radio Cage Differences and why

    Originally posted by maiks View Post
    Also bought a new radio... Needs to make correct size..
    Wires fit directly.. Only antenna needs the adapter..

    C4 Radio Cage Differences and why:


    http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/184617.phtml

    Leave a comment:


  • maiks
    replied
    Great that someone understands

    Also bought a new radio... Needs to make correct size..
    Wires fit directly.. Only antenna needs the adapter..

    (illustrative picture, not mine)
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    I know how frustrating it can be to get window frames to sit correctly.

    Leave a comment:


  • maiks
    replied
    The car is hibernated for the winter..

    And some things done and a lot needs to be done..
    Last winter, I did bottom so this year needs upper side a little care..



    First thing what was bothering me were the doors. The car was painted by the previous owner and someone was really rushing. So many things were put together badly. I removed rear door cards to see how to adjust them.. Doors were twisted or something..

    This area was always clean, no matter how dirty the car was (both sides).


    It took a few hours before I finally got the result I wanted.
    Quick how to


    There are four 13mm bolts, when you loose those you can easily bend door how you want. But it takes time And a lot of cold nerves to get perfect results..
    On the other side I already knew what to do, so it took 15 min
    Also I found a problem, why one door did not open when you try to get out. Simple - cable wasn't connected. Other side window did not go all the way down, there was also a mess.. Now, rear doors are good..
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • maiks
    replied
    Not enough space and skills

    Leave a comment:


  • Taavi
    replied
    I would suggest soldered joints to the crimped ones. Soldering is much more reliable. And these last pics are typical for old cars. It is harder and harder to find parts w/o "age damage"

    Leave a comment:


  • maiks
    replied
    Just some things....



    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • maiks
    replied
    Car wanted to burn again...
    Lots of smoke in the car...
    This time someone has done ''good'' electric
    Luckily nothing serious happened..


    Quick repair... of course its now taped also..
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • maiks
    replied
    Everybody probably knows why

    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • maiks
    replied
    Originally posted by hunker7 View Post
    B8 is for when you go more that 30mm I think.
    If I remember correctly then b6 is to 40mm and b8 is over that
    Difference with b6 an b8 is that b8 is shorter a little..
    But anyway here in Estonia are very bumpy roads and car acts really fine

    Thanks Spyform!

    Leave a comment:


  • Spyform
    replied
    Beauty!!

    Leave a comment:


  • igor136
    replied
    H&R is - 40.When the car goes on the hoist, will that be a problem?

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    Originally posted by igor136 View Post
    Nice car.I noticed that you put together h & r springs with B6 shocks. Is not better to use B8 to them? Just curious.
    B8 is for when you go more that 30mm I think.

    Leave a comment:

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