Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

A6 Nogaro Blue TDI restomod

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    Was is the right word, now they are impossible to find. They have a valve which is activated at around 1800rpm which changes the mount stiffness.

    Comment


    • #47
      Originally posted by radi_nrj View Post
      However I plan to get rid of the stock K14 6707 and replace it with K16 6711 from Audi 100 2.5, it should be a direct swap. I already bought the K16 but still wonder what to do with it, just rebuild it or upgrade it with a billet compressor wheel.
      You can also use K16-6721. It's much bigger turbo than K14-6707. Compressor and turbine side.
      We used this turbos at Fiat Uno Turbo years ago :-D

      My father has this turbo in his Uno, running around 150hp but more is possible...

      Very robust turbos, do the upgrade to Billet wheel!

      I hope you check the chassis next to the steering rack, is offen broken at the V8 under the "enforcement" sheet.
      Can look for pictures when you need.

      Good luck!

      Comment


      • #48
        Thanks Acki, I already have one rebuild 6711. it is getting ridiculously hard to maintain those cars, could not find the turbo mounting kit in Bulgaria so I'm waiting for it to be delivered from Latvia...

        Got the new turbo hoses.
        Last edited by radi_nrj; 23rd February 2018, 10:54.

        Comment


        • #49
          Got everything delivered and now the turbo is installed but still boost only to 0.3Bar. Now we have to check everything, MAP, N75, and all the vacuum lines.


          Comment


          • #50
            We have Boost

            And one more grapgh from 1000rpm

            I did a log from 2000 to 4500rpm and you can clearly see how laggy those old engines are, I floor it on 1900rpm and it still spools till 2500rpm

            It was all fun and games for several days tull yesterday when I've noticed white smoke when I accelerate, and this morning 300mL of coolant were missing.

            Now I have another upgrade on my mind - ARP studs and MLS gasket

            Here I was cougnt in action while fixing a friend's UrS6 wiring.
            Last edited by radi_nrj; 12th April 2018, 17:32.

            Comment


            • #51
              I did a 0-200 test and the results look pretty good for 1.7ton car with heavy 18' wheels and tires (the tires are Pirelli P7 225/45 RFT).


              Also did a smoke check, it looks pretty smokeless for a remapped AEL which is good

              Last edited by radi_nrj; 18th April 2018, 08:22.

              Comment


              • #52
                It is always fun with those old cars. Hello white smoke... It is not oil, and it is not coolant. Now lets see which is the culprit. My bets are 80% on the injection pump and 20% on the injectors.



                It ran a 17.2 where it should do16's

                So the injectors and the pump got out. The injectors were sent to a specialit to be refurbished and the pump will be checked when I come back from vacation
                Last edited by radi_nrj; 25th May 2018, 18:17.

                Comment


                • #53
                  It has been a long time but had some other other things to do and the car was left aside. So we now have one fully refurbished fuel pump, new DTP injector nozzles and the car runs even worse. it does not smoke so much but it lacks even more power. However after almost a year and a half I managed to assemble the rear hubs and at least i'll get the S6 rear brakes fitted before winter (It may lack power but it has to stop )

                  in the meantime I'm helping a friend restoring his 2.2T 6 speed manual S4

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    finally got the rear S6 brakes on it


                    1eedd97116e3b5c9.jpg

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Check the camshaft timing and perform a leaktest (pressure air into the chamber - via glow plug and then check where the air leaves the engine).

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        I would suggest check for signal to/from from No.3 Injector lift sensor. The wiring from it is small and every time injectors are removed you risk damaging it. BTDT due to careless injector "specialist".
                        Pump timing can be fun on these engines. I wouldn't waste time using a dial gauge in the *** of the pump. Line up the pump marks as per factory, and check with VCDS once run up to temp. Also, disconnect the temp sensor at hot idle and you will hear the engine sound a wee bit different until reconnection.
                        On my last C4 (AAT) I ended up with the pump body's marks noticeably "over advanced" whilst VCDS was spot on, and she pulled like a trooper.
                        Last edited by 5cylinderman; 25th June 2019, 14:17.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Timing is spot on, checked via VSDS, needle lift sensor works perfect. The engine is very hard to turn by hand and I suspect a bad crank shaft. The crank shafts on the 5cyl diesels are known to twist.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X