Not a bad idea pete
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what about the Morris Lubircants Multilife 10W/50
http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/im...on%2010W50.pdf
and the 5W/40
http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/im...%205W%2040.pdf
this is what I am using currently.Greg
S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster
'93 Coupe with a few tweeks
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Audifans has just set up an account for discount.
Do a quick google search for "oilman" As Steve says, he is well respected for his knowledge and advice on the subjsct of oil.
It's ok to say that "so and so who does this/that and the other" says 10w60 is ok, but then is anyone on here in the oil industry?
I've never used the Syna gold stuff, simply because I've heard more people say it leaks out all over the place than I've heard say it's good.
Hopefully I've not done any damage using a 10w60 [shrugs, I dunno] and I've just ordered some Silkolene Pro S 10w 50 to replace the current Mobil 1 15w 50 thats due to come out in 800 miles time.
Oil changed every 5k miles on the dot, come rain or shine.Last edited by Jas11n; 21 January 2006, 10:07.2001 Avus Silver B5 RS4.
2004 A4 Avant 1.8T quattro Sport-LE.
1995 S2 Coupe - sold (sniff)
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Originally posted by Jas11nAudifans has just set up an account for discount.
Do a quick google search for "oilman" As Steve says, he is well respected for his knowledge and advice on the subjsct of oil.
It's ok to say that "so and so who does this/that and the other" says 10w60 is ok, but then is anyone on here in the oil industry?
I've never used the Syna gold stuff, simply because I've heard more people say it leaks out all over the place than I've heard say it's good.
Hopefully I've not done any damage using a 10w60 [shrugs, I dunno] and I've just ordered some Silkolene Pro S 10w 50 to replace the current Mobil 1 15w 50 thats due to come out in 800 miles time.
Oil changed every 5k miles on the dot, come rain or shine.
I don't think we will have done any damage using 10w60 oil in our cars. It is made by castrol and is expensive and says fully synthetic on the tin. Even if it is not a truely fully synthetic oil I am sure it will be okay.
Minhea was recommending it, so it can't be all bad.
I suspect that the 10w50 is probably the "perfect" oil and 10w60 is "okay"
That's they way I see it anyway.
Not changing the oil at all or putting Tesco Value oil in would be "bad"!
Cheers,
Steve.The Perfectionist
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Audi Class Concours winner Stoner Park 2014, ADI Concours D'Elegance Class Winner 2008, Runner up 2014. Winner, S2Forum Show'n'Shine Billing 2006 & 2008.
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Ok, it was me that posted the comments on 10w-60 and you really don't need an sae 60 as it has too many drawbacks unless you are running excessive oil temperatures and by excessive I mean 150degC.
You need to understand that an sae 60 is as thick as gear oils creating oil drag which loses power at the wheels, poorer fuel consumption and friction, heat and engine wear.
In the worse case scenario an oil that is too thick causes air entrainment and slugs of air being fed to bearings.
Thick oils are not good for turbo's as they do not dissapate heat as well as thinner ones do.
Your cars handbooks specify sae 40 oils, 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 etc and this is because they need an oil that is 14cst at 100degC as specified by VAG not an sae 60 that is 24cst at 100degC (70% thicker).
As my brother Guy said and quoted in this thread, a good 5w-40 for road and occasional track and a good 10w-50 for modded and a lot of track action.
We like Silkolene PRO S and Motul 300V for the more extreme use as these oils contain no petroluem basestocks only proper synthetic pao/ester ones, the top of the tree Group IV and V basestocks.
The likes of Fuchs (factory fill for VAG) and Motul 8100 are good road oils and will not cost you the earth.
I have been contacted by the Club about access to discounts in the Members Area of our website and hopefully the admins here will be making an announcement soon.
If I can be of help, please feel free to ask.
Cheers
SimonUse the code S2F and get 10% Club Discount
oilman's website for BMW engine oil and much more - register for news and offers
email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
phone: 01209 202944
Comment
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Ok, it was me that posted the comments on 10w-60 and you really don't need an sae 60 as it has too many drawbacks unless you are running excessive oil temperatures and by excessive I mean 150degC.
You need to understand that an sae 60 is as thick as gear oils creating oil drag which loses power at the wheels, poorer fuel consumption and friction, heat and engine wear.
In the worse case scenario an oil that is too thick causes air entrainment and slugs of air being fed to bearings.
Thick oils are not good for turbo's as they do not dissapate heat as well as thinner ones do.
Your cars handbooks specify sae 40 oils, 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 etc and this is because they need an oil that is 14cst at 100degC as specified by VAG not an sae 60 that is 24cst at 100degC (70% thicker).
As my brother Guy said and quoted in this thread, a good 5w-40 for road and occasional track and a good 10w-50 for modded and a lot of track action.
We like Silkolene PRO S and Motul 300V for the more extreme use as these oils contain no petroluem basestocks only proper synthetic pao/ester ones, the top of the tree Group IV and V basestocks.
The likes of Fuchs (factory fill for VAG) and Motul 8100 are good road oils and will not cost you the earth.
I have been contacted by the Club about access to discounts in the Members Area of our website and hopefully the admins here will be making an announcement soon.
If I can be of help, please feel free to ask.
Cheers
SimonUse the code S2F and get 10% Club Discount
oilman's website for BMW engine oil and much more - register for news and offers
email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
phone: 01209 202944
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@Oilman
When you say 150 its the temperature on the sump because the temperature that the oil has to withstand is more than 300 Degrees celcius!
What do you have to say about the Mobil1 5W-50 ?? Dont know if you got it there but many S2-RS2 drives using it now, here in Germany!Go Holset or Go RS4
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