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Car Broke down! :/ after full revs Any help /advice?

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  • #61
    Voltage regulator is on the alternator.

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    • #62
      Originally posted by Bowie69 View Post
      Voltage regulator is on the alternator.
      I just had a new alternator fitted, would this be an issue? it is not the standard alternator

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      • #63
        The normal voltage regulation is around 14V+. Its normally printed on the back of the voltage regulator itself.
        Post the specs of your alternator or some way of identify it if it is an aftermarket upgrade. I an see the advantage of having more amps but not necessarily too much voltage!

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        • #64
          Originally posted by twoqu View Post
          The normal voltage regulation is around 14V+. Its normally printed on the back of the voltage regulator itself.
          Post the specs of your alternator or some way of identify it if it is an aftermarket upgrade. I an see the advantage of having more amps but not necessarily too much voltage!
          Huge thx!! I will do, once the garage gets back to me.
          I just asked an ecu specialist and they quoted me £161 to fix it and test it and send it back.
          The alternator does look a lot beefier than the old one for sure.

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          • #65
            Originally posted by twoqu View Post
            The normal voltage regulation is around 14V+. Its normally printed on the back of the voltage regulator itself.
            Post the specs of your alternator or some way of identify it if it is an aftermarket upgrade. I an see the advantage of having more amps but not necessarily too much voltage!
            Does this help? I took some photos from the alternator, has some details on it.

            Attached Files

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            • #66
              Ok so I phoned the company on that sticker and got some details from them:

              its an alternator for an audi a4 1.8 quattro, ASY engine code.
              95-98 year

              Bosch code: 0123 510 033

              Does this work? or a no no?, they had to retrofit something to fit it also

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              • #67
                On dear! You have a nasty Chinese alternator which has probably produced a voltage spike at high revs sufficient to kill your ecu.
                i personally would take it back from where it came and explain what damage it has caused and get them to pay to put it right. You can buy a proper OE Bosch remanufactured alternator from a bosch service centre for £200.
                Nothelle S2 Avant
                Black Ur project
                Ocianic Ur project gone
                S2 Coupe project gone
                Urs6 plus project gone

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                • #68
                  Originally posted by Tractor Dave View Post
                  On dear! You have a nasty Chinese alternator which has probably produced a voltage spike at high revs sufficient to kill your ecu.
                  i personally would take it back from where it came and explain what damage it has caused and get them to pay to put it right. You can buy a proper OE Bosch remanufactured alternator from a bosch service centre for £200.
                  is this likely!? :/ i am fuming if it is

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                  • #69
                    Hmmm
                    Is it me or has the two halves seperated. Looks like its coming apart in the third pic. The Made in China is hardly inspiring!
                    The stock regulator is 14.5V from what I can tell without knowing what alternator you should have fitted. There is more than one version apparently.
                    Looks like this is some sort of knock of. I can understand something being remanufactured from the original (Bosch?) alternator by a reputable organisation.
                    If it has come apart perhaps this has caused some sort of problem with the winding touching the case.
                    Unfortunately the voltage regulator is on the back of that black case. It is normally secured with two screws.
                    As we know it takes 18V from the worlds most knowledgable expert on our Motronic ecu's to blow that overvoltage protection, I would contact the vendor of the alternator and see what they have to say about the situation. Assuming its within a warranty period.

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                    • #70
                      You have found your problem, I think.

                      Get your old alternator reconditioned by a proper place, then you know it is good for another 200k.

                      The Chinese 'thing' isn't worth the rusty steel it was made from, and almost certainly the problem here.

                      Sorry

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                      • #71
                        ******... hmm ok well .. in order to point it at that. If i send the ecu to get repaired .. and the car starts... would the ecu store that over voltage as a fault code? Would it be obvious that the alternator is at fault. I need evidence for this garage.. :/

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                        • #72
                          I think it would have lost it once battery power was removed from the ecu- it would have been 00532. So once its repaired and connected it will be blank again unfortunately.
                          Perhaps there is a way of somehow getting the alternator tested off the car and using the findings as a bargaining tool. It would have be independent unless the seller of the alternator is going to put their hands up. Would have thought a new battery would be advisable to add to the list if making a claim, for some leverage.
                          In hindsight the code would have given a clue/provide evidence but you are way past that now. It does seem the alternator is the main suspect. Even though we know its not the correct fitment, most automotive alterntors use 14V so it should have functioned correctly.

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                          • #73
                            Hey thank you for all the help guys!! I really appreciate this! The mechanic has said he will send the alternator off for testing. He's also saying it should blow the fuse before it blows the diode in the ECU..

                            Any new thoughts on any of this?

                            Thx

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                            • #74
                              Hmm, blowing a fuse which is current based, before the voltage based diode.... well, while voltage and current are inextricably linked, they are not the same, and the chance of voltage getting too high to blow the diode before a fuse blows is pretty high.

                              Also, fuses are quite slow blow items, typically they can also take around double their rating before going 'pop'. A diode is not so forgiving, and will go pop quite easily once a certain voltage is reached, and very quickly at that.

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                              • #75
                                If its a Zenner diode then at a predermined voltage it will basically short the circuit out, thereby blowing the fuse. The factory manual for the ABY says this is above 16V whilst Dmitri says its 18V. As the voltage should have been regulated at the alternator to 14.5V then there should not have been an issue.
                                I meant to check if those numbers on the diodes still visible related to the pin assignments of the ecu.

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