Paul's ABY Home Fries

[Paulm]

Glen

How do u guy's work out u r Fly figures? not that it make any diff but most people like to hear the Fly figures

I see u made 276 ATW and worked it out to 325ATF

276 is bloody good by the way

My car made 279 ATW and worked out to 360 ATF from Rollong Road, or 368ATF working on 25% tra losses which the evo seems to have.

How much boost u running Peak and Held?

Paul

[Ski]

So bbasically.. what my solution is...

order rs2 turbo and manifold

order a homefry remapped for rs2 turbo

fit all parts onto car

drive off without problems ??????

[Doug_RS2]

Originally posted by Ski
So bbasically.. what my solution is...
order rs2 turbo and manifold
order a homefry remapped for rs2 turbo

Ski, If I was you I would first check if you have a metal headgasket, if you do go and buy the RS2 Turbo, RS2 Exhaust Manifold, RS2 Intercooler and RS2 Injectors. With that you can get the most you can out of the RS2 Turbo. You need a custom reMAP from Paul or Mihnea - I think you are guaranteed over 350bhp, possibly getting close to 370bhp - that shoud keep you happy - and if you wanted any more power than that it will cost LOT more.

I have sold a reconditioned RS2 Turbo for £300, Brand New RS2 Exhaust Manifold for £300 and RS2 Injectors for £150 - If it's not those prices it's very close(ask Sal - he has the EM and turbo) - you then have the remap cost on top of that - That is a very cheap extra 120/140bhp.

Again, make sure you have the Metal Head Gasket though. And you will need new gaskets for everything (turbo, manifold,downpipe, wastgate pipe), new nuts for everything, new exhaust studs. And you should run a good quality oil as things are going to get hot, and better brakes and......

HTH

[Ski]

thanx Doug_RS2



sounds cheap...

can i still drive the car with all these bits on but standard ecu? (to drive me to get it remapped).

how do i tell if i got a metal head?

[Sidspud]

The car will be drivable, albeit a little harsh in its power delivery. It will be much better after getting remapped.

I'm not convinced on the metal head gasket. I can see the benefits of it, but from what everyone else seems to be running, its not essential to change it. My local dealer actually recommended that it was NOT replaced unless it blew. They said that taking the head off was a last resort job. If you're taking the head off anyway, then by all means change it for a metal one.

I'm planning a very similar upgrade to Ski with RS2 turbo, EM, IM, IC and injectors plus a remap from Mihnea. I've already got all the bolts and gaskets I need EXCEPT the head gasket.

[Doug_RS2]

Ask Tom if you need it - around 330bhp blew his paper gasket - I have a pic of what you should be looking for, to know if you have the metal headgasket - I'll try and find it.

[Doug_RS2]

And here it is - the rivets stick out but will be under the head so try and feel for them

[audiman]

@Sidspud, trust me on the head gasket thing! Cost me a lot more than changing the gasket!! Blew the main rad apart and also the little electrical turbo water pump!!

I was warned before the mapping was done to change the gasket, but i lied to Paul and told him I had done it, so that I could have bigger power!

Big mistake. There are some pictures on the site of my broken gasket, have a search and a look!

DONT WIND UP THE BOOST WITHOUT DOING THE HEAD GASKET.

[newsh]

Originally posted by audiman
@Sidspud, trust me on the head gasket thing!
(snip)
DONT WIND UP THE BOOST WITHOUT DOING THE HEAD GASKET.

@Audiman

Tom. How about the rod bearings, did you change them for the purple (?) ones? Are they a "MUST DO" for us 3B ers?

And is that just the small ends or the big ends too?

Is it possible to do these without the engine out?

[Sidspud]

I'm beginning to think that maybe I should change the head gasket.

I'll check to see if its metal or paper first.

[audiman]

Yes John good point, i was also supposed to do them as well!! Dont tell anyone, but i havent done them either! I will hear them start before there is a major problem. Still sounds fine at 151k!!!

I have the bits in stock, ie bearings and 2xsump gaskets. You have to lower the front subframe to get the oil pan off, but it can be done without engine removal.

[Mihnea]

Originally posted by audiman
Yes John good point, i was also supposed to do them as well!! Dont tell anyone, but i havent done them either! I will hear them start before there is a major problem. Still sounds fine at 151k!!!

WHAT????????????? u suicidal b@stard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! do them ASAP goddangit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!





:wacked:

[newsh]

Originally posted by audiman
Yes John good point, i was also supposed to do them as well!! Dont tell anyone, but i havent done them either! I will hear them start before there is a major problem. Still sounds fine at 151k!!!

I have the bits in stock, ie bearings and 2xsump gaskets. You have to lower the front subframe to get the oil pan off, but it can be done without engine removal.

Hehe, Mihnea

That's good news then, so head off, sump off, undo big ends, push pistons out the top, change the bearings and all back together with steel head gasket..

[Doug_RS2]

Can you remove the crank from under the car? Just taking the sump off?

Just as well I didn't know that when I had mine off - i might have spent even more money.

[Mark Halligan]

Just as well I didn't know that when I had mine off - i might have spent even more money.

LOL , I know how you feel Doug, its starting to get a bit expensive.

Maybe we could arrange a group buy on some therapy, dunno about anyone else here but, I am beginning to question my sanity :eek2: .

Cheers,

Mark.