New S2 Avant Nothelle N300 owner

[Tractor Dave]

Is it possible to move the belt over a tooth without doing the whole cambelt job? Can the top sprocket be removed with belt on but loose?Just thinking. Everything was done new last year.

[steve briance]

I am not sure moving the belt 1 tooth to the rigth would make it hit the mark bang on, wouldnt it end up the same amount out but just past the mark the other way? Have you looked at it with the flywheel mark bang on the edge of the hole? (tdc)

I had similar dealings with my markings last year. You can pretty much ignore the mark on the timing belt cover - it is not really accurate enough and more of a guide. The flywheel mark and cam pulley marks are the ones you need to make right. My engine had a head which is at maximum slim and a light skin to surface the deck of the block. This added up to make similar deviations in where I could get my marks, I got a Tommi's adjustable pulley fitted and it needed 4 deg adjustment to get the cam marks to line up once flywheel mark (tdc) was exactly right.

I don't think this is your problem though as the engine ran before laying up for a while didn't it?

It is possible to get cam pulley off without removing the crank pulley. You will have to release tension on the belt by moving waterpump (or separate tension roller on your engine?) you just need to be careful to make sure the belt sits properly in the teeth on the crank pulley when you put it back together as you can't see it.

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks Steve. I've been reading up on the tooth out subject here and it mainly prevents boost rather than starting. Even with the plugs out, the engine doesn't seem to want to stop right at TDC with the flywheel mark in position. Yes, it started and ran nicely before and the belt is tight so I think I'm barking up the wrong tree

What I have noticed is a small amount of play at the camshaft sproket. Looks like it's going to have to come off anyway

[steve briance]

I made this tool to hold the sprocket well enough to torque the bolt. My book says 80nm. Holding the sprocket still and hard enough to put that torque on is tricky. There is a risk to the woodruff key on the cam sprockets in the same way the crank pulley suffers - the key is simply not strong enough to stop the pulley turning when doing up bolt, you need a locking device. The key in a cam sprocket on an engine I rebuilt a while ago was held in with lock tite for heavens sake! count myself lucky I noticed it.

My tool idea does need the belt to be off in order to work but if you are going down that route anyway its no bother

[Tractor Dave]

I think you are right about the timing. I re checked, marked the flywheel with a little silver paint and managed to get it lined up.

Top pulley when TDC

If I move over a tooth I will just be the same but the other side of the mark.

Checked the resistance on the crank sensor and got 979 ohms.


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[steve briance]

Other than you still need to make sure the pulley is tight, sorry I'm out of ideas

[Error404]

You need to be a fair bit out on the timing for it to be a non-start - that looks fine to me. You need a scope to check the crank sensors really, resistance doesn’t tell you what the ECU is seeing. What about the G40? Did you test it?

[Tractor Dave]

You need to be a fair bit out on the timing for it to be a non-start - that looks fine to me. You need a scope to check the crank sensors really, resistance doesn’t tell you what the ECU is seeing. What about the G40? Did you test it?

No, I don't have a led to test it but I think its ok as the fuel pump relay is operating when I crank the engine. I have ordered a VCDS usb cable and Newsh has sent me the software. Should arrive on Monday then I can properly read the codes.

[Greg_S]

Have you confirmed the sensors on the bell housing are connected the right way round. They both have the same connectors so could have been plugged in the wrong connectors?

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks Greg. I don't think so but I will check.

[Tractor Dave]

Has anyone got a good picture of the loom as it reaches the coil packs and holder rail, preferably with engine out of the car so I can see which one hooks up where? I have searched but not found. Or is there another way to test?

[Tractor Dave]

My friendly Audi mechanic came over and spent a couple of hours on the car. He has proper vagcom and tested everything he could. The only code present was the same code I got with my cheap reader. We re checked the timing marks and all the wiring connections. Everything else is pointing at the ECU. It’s just not timing properly. I don’t know why this would happen as I haven’t done anything on the car that would potentially harm the ECU since the engine last ran.
Has anyone got a spare ABY ecu (without immobiliser) that I could try?


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[John.]

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

From an "old school" point of view...…...crank/cam timing is ok, and you have a spark yes?...….plugs are wet with fuel but it won't fire?

[Tractor Dave]

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

From an "old school" point of view...…...crank/cam timing is ok, and you have a spark yes?...….plugs are wet with fuel but it won't fire?

Hi John. No, I haven't but it floods very quickly. Maybe too much fuel? Would that be a faulty FPR?
My mechanic thinks its timing because when we swapped the coil feed plugs on the original twin coil packs we got pops and bangs. Correctly installed, nothing, but we still have spark.

[Tractor Dave]

Here are my coil pack connectors when the car was running last. Brown to light brown and black to black.

The below is from another working S2. Brown to black.



Which is right?


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