New S2 Avant Nothelle N300 owner

[Tractor Dave]

Oops.
I was following the guide I found on the forum which gives several options including everything which I went for.
I did plug the Ecu hose as I didn’t want to risk damaging anything there.
I should have listened to you in the first place John, but it looks like I got away with it.
Car is running nicely and co has dropped down to about 0.3 on my tester. I need to take it for a long drive now to get it properly warmed up and test it again. I will clear the codes first and re check afterwards.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tractor Dave]

I had some nasty holes in my centre consul where a mobile phone was fitted. It was also missing the front left clip which holds the panel tight to the centre.
Lefrog is a very kind person and very useful to know as his family runs a breakers yard. He found me a good replacement, which I fitted today.

The ash tray was toast but I swapped it with mine.
He also found me a good bonnet pull which I will hopefully fit tomorrow.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tractor Dave]

More fun and games.
My friend helped me change the wheel bearing over for another new SKF.

When all done there was no play. So I drove the 10 miles home and notice some noise again from that wheel at about 30mph. So, jacked the car up to check all was ok. The play had returned!
Striped it down again to check something. I had pained the hub so cleaned it off just in case this was causing the issue.

Put it all back together again. I still have about 1mm of play.
Any ideas?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tractor Dave]

Then. On the drive the Auto check oil light came on. Not done this before.
And the oil pressure gauge in the centre consul still goes directly to max and stays there all the time. I’ve tried another pressure sender and a new relay but made no difference. Could it be the smaller oil sender below the cotton reel one?

On the plus side the car is running beautifully pulling strongly in all gears from low revs up to my self imposed 3k rev limit. It’s so tempting to give it some welly!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[twoqu]

I think the blue wiring terminal should be on the G terminal of the sender.
Thats the terminal plastic cover!

[steve briance]

Have you been able to determine where the play is occurring?

I've never fitted a bearing before as it involves a hydraulic press that I don't have but I've watched it done and it involves quite a lot of force to press the bearing into the bearing carrier.

Is the play between the fixed and rotating parts of the bearing (I. E your bearing has failed) or between the outer race and carrier (I. E your carrier is ever so slightly too big) or between the inner race and hub (I. E your hub is slightly too small)

Skf bearings last a good while in service, if the play is between the fixed and rotating halves then I wonder if you have sadly damaged the bearing pressing it in? I hope not as that would be awfully annoying. You must press it in with a blank that pushes the outer race into the carrier, if you are pressing it in by pushing the inner race the I'm afraid that is probably why it's knackered again. Sorry if you already know this, I'm just throwing ideas out there!

[Tractor Dave]

I think the blue wiring terminal should be on the G terminal of the sender.
Thats the terminal plastic cover!

Yes. It’s on the correct terminal. If you clean up the sensor there is actually a blob of blue paint to indicate which terminal goes where.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tractor Dave]

Have you been able to determine where the play is occurring?

I've never fitted a bearing before as it involves a hydraulic press that I don't have but I've watched it done and it involves quite a lot of force to press the bearing into the bearing carrier.

Is the play between the fixed and rotating parts of the bearing (I. E your bearing has failed) or between the outer race and carrier (I. E your carrier is ever so slightly too big) or between the inner race and hub (I. E your hub is slightly too small)

Skf bearings last a good while in service, if the play is between the fixed and rotating halves then I wonder if you have sadly damaged the bearing pressing it in? I hope not as that would be awfully annoying. You must press it in with a blank that pushes the outer race into the carrier, if you are pressing it in by pushing the inner race the I'm afraid that is probably why it's knackered again. Sorry if you already know this, I'm just throwing ideas out there!

I’ve done a few bearings and did it with proper support both times. It’s difficult to see where the play is. Certainly very tight fit going into the hub carrier. Maybe there is wear on the hub itself. I will have to visit my Audi mechanic again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tractor Dave]

This car is fighting back!
Fitted the new bonnet cable and now it works.
Only problem is that the grommet is the wrong size and mine fell into the black hole behind the dash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[twoqu]

Yes. It’s on the correct terminal. If you clean up the sensor there is actually a blob of blue paint to indicate which terminal goes where.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As both of those signal goes through the aux loom with the round connectors, I would check for continuity there down to the sender. I believe the pressure sensor should have some resistance whereas the pressure switch is either open or closed circuit. The full scale deflection is supposedly down to not having any signal.

[Tractor Dave]

As both of those signal goes through the aux loom with the round connectors, I would check for continuity there down to the sender. I believe the pressure sensor should have some resistance whereas the pressure switch is either open or closed circuit. The full scale deflection is supposedly down to not having any signal.

Thanks for the tip. I did have a problem with that section of wiring previously so its a good place to start. I ran a test on the bench previously before installing that bit of the loom but its been pushed and pulled into place sine then.

[Tractor Dave]

I think I found the problem. The loom that runs on the left side of the engine was actually touching the block and looks heat damaged. I will have to take it all out and repair. It's the section that goes to the oil sensors and water rail.
My back is still sore from yesterday (crawling about under the dash) so I haven't even started on the grommet hunt

[Tractor Dave]

I’ve spent this afternoon on the car. I tested for continuity on the sensor wires and had 0 resistance on all three wires. All the connections were good so I was still scratching my head. My electrician friend called by and suggested that a simple resistance test would not always show up a problem. Sometimes a small strand of wire would show 0 resistance but not carry sufficient voltage in operation. So I hot wired each connection in turn back to the relevant wire on the plug on the bulkhead. Hey presto, the black and white wire to the oil pressure sender wasn’t carrying sufficient voltage and when hot wired, the warning light went out.


Now I just have the horrible job of taking that bit of the loom out and fixing. Not looking forward to that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tractor Dave]

And thanks to Lefrog who found me a good replacement cable, the bonnet now opens nicely and I ditched the blue string!

[newsh]

Before you take the loom out, try just shortening that wire a little and crimping a new tag on the end.