My Coupe project

[Tractor Dave]

I don't rate Hammerite. It's not as good as it was years ago. I like to use epoxy these days. The products by Bilt Hamber and Rust busters are very good and so is Novol Protect which I believe is made in Poland? I think it's cheaper there too!

[RumJanek]

Hi, Dave
I seen you carrying project same as me ?
I have grid on the road even temp. is +3°C or little bit below ?
To better protect subframes from corrosion, I used Hammerite, not sure how much help, but everything was brushed by wire brush or angle grinder. This help a lot, I'll see next year...

Wysłane z mojego Redmi Note 8 Pro przy użyciu Tapatalka

[Tractor Dave]

Called over to see my tractor mechanic friend who has a very useful press.
Made light work of pressing out the wheel bearing’s.



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[newsh]

As I said in another thread you rock man, all that work!

I´ve read all your updates everyday and love the pictures... you do have a rust problem in your country, my car doesn´t have a spec of rust I feel lucky I live in a sunny country because I couldn´t tackle a job like that as you do! Respect!

Salt on the UK roads most winters here in the south, not to mention cars that have spent time in Scotland!

[psiconauta911]

As I said in another thread you rock man, all that work!

I´ve read all your updates everyday and love the pictures... you do have a rust problem in your country, my car doesn´t have a spec of rust I feel lucky I live in a sunny country because I couldn´t tackle a job like that as you do! Respect!

[Bowie69]

Amazed you still have the brake shields!

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers.
I will probably leave the rear struts then and do them after the front is back together. Or maybe fit a spare front subframe I have. Will think about it.
BTDT with the welded bolt in the dif. Worked very well last time.
Put the guard to one side for me then please. Thanks again. Advice always appreciated.


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[Bowie69]

Strut top bolts means dismantling the tweeting shelf/parcel shelf supports either side, or no access, sorry to be the bearer of bad news. There is a screw hidden behind the seat belt that holds it in place..... took me a while to find that one!

That drain plug won't come out.... just weld a big (M16?) bolt in there once on the bench and it should come out easily.

I have a refurbed difflock actuator guard I'd be willing to sell -looks like you need one... I made one out of 0.9mm stainless for my car so no longer needed, see my thread.

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers Steve. I’m aiming for a good quality end result.

Made a start on the back end. Everything cleaned and soaked in penetrating oil.
Most of the bolts have been sprayed in under seal which is messy but has reduced the rust.
It’s going to be fun dropping the struts as the car is up on the lift and I can’t drop it as the gearbox is being held up by a ladder. I did intend to do the front first, then rear. I will have to climb into the boot somehow and see if I can get the strut top bolts undone.





The dif oil drain isn’t looking good.



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[steve briance]

Thats good news then re your bush holes and your original coating still seems to be pretty much still there despite the flames!

The car will be well and truly saved by the time you are done.

[Tractor Dave]

Subframe cleaned up nicely with a power wash. The rust isn’t bad at all.
All the bush openings are identical. It appears that the loose bush had lost its metal case. It must have rusted out.



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[Bowie69]

Perhaps new parts just arent made to the correct size these days.

These were the factory originals

[Tractor Dave]

All eight of my subframe bushes essentially fell out when I did them a few years ago, completely wasted.

I think you have answered my puzzle. They are all fooked!

[steve briance]

There needs to be a happy medium; bushes falling out is bad as is never coming out. Perhaps new parts just arent made to the correct size these days.

[Bowie69]

All eight of my subframe bushes essentially fell out when I did them a few years ago, completely wasted.