My Coupe project

[Tractor Dave]

I had really good results drilling out those broken off M6 bolts, go steady, centre punch, start with good quality 3mm drill and work up. If you can get the strut in a drill press it really helps.

New cap nuts are available as spares, if they’re really stuck you can always run a hacksaw cut down them and open them a little with a screwdriver.

Cheers John. One strut already drilled. Boy it's hard metal!

[newsh]

What colour code is the broken spring? I might have one left..

[newsh]

I had really good results drilling out those broken off M6 bolts, go steady, centre punch, start with good quality 3mm drill and work up. If you can get the strut in a drill press it really helps.

New cap nuts are available as spares, if they’re really stuck you can always run a hacksaw cut down them and open them a little with a screwdriver.

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks guys. Both came out ok after a soak.
What took a bit longer was getting the caps off the strut tubes.
This one was really difficult. Took heat and a very big stilson.


On the other hand, this one was really really really difficult. Lots of heat, a bit more heat, the big stilson and a very big pole. OMG it was solid.


Then all the little bolts that hold the brake pipe and abs line holders sheared off. Cry.
And I have one spring with a broken end. Cry, cry. Anyone have a good pair of oe ABY coupe springs?
The shocks are the original and completely dead. Cry, cry, cry!


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[Bowie69]

Almost all ABS sensors are the same size, so quite easy to get the coppery springy bits, fortunately.

[steve briance]

I got a bag of the copper ABS sleeves ages ago as they always suffer while removing the sensors. The idiots at audi wanted £10 each if i remember rightly but, its a part that also suits landrover and i picked up a bag full at £2 each. This was a long time ago so suspect an increase but its still going to be less than audi.

[Tractor Dave]

RE: ABS sensors, I think you can still get front ones relatively easily, but if not (like the case for the rears) then I managed to hit them out destroying the outside stainless 'can', but the inner workings came out fine and undamaged.

I then bought two of the cheapest ABS sensors on ebay, and carefully cut the cans off, checked the length against the OE sensor, trimmed to fit, and then epoxy glued the cans in place, making sure they would be water tight.

You can test the sensors with a meter, around 1000 Ohms is right, +/- 150 Ohms, I think.

Still working nearly a year on after my underside refresh

I do have two good spares but I'm still hoping to save them.

[Bowie69]

RE: ABS sensors, I think you can still get front ones relatively easily, but if not (like the case for the rears) then I managed to hit them out destroying the outside stainless 'can', but the inner workings came out fine and undamaged.

I then bought two of the cheapest ABS sensors on ebay, and carefully cut the cans off, checked the length against the OE sensor, trimmed to fit, and then epoxy glued the cans in place, making sure they would be water tight.

You can test the sensors with a meter, around 1000 Ohms is right, +/- 150 Ohms, I think.

Still working nearly a year on after my underside refresh

[Tractor Dave]

I got the linkage all back together and now everything is very stiff. I’ve had a chat with Error and hopefully we can sort something out.

So, I moved onto the front struts.
Removed without too many problems. Abs sensors are solid. I will soak them overnight. Top mounts look to be the original and bump stops and covers are well past their sell by date. I’m tempted to go Koni shocks and standard springs.


Quite a bit of cleaning required in here.


And here.


I’m hopefully going to get the front subframe and struts to the blasters before the end of the week.


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[Tractor Dave]

Errors bush fitted no problem.
Just waiting for the glue to set then it can go back on.



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[B5NUT]

I know the pain O so well with every word you have written, just change the word exhaust to suspension, aircon or cooling system etc etc..

[Tractor Dave]

So the exhaust is a mess and I wanted to take it off anyway but wasn’t planning to do it just yet. Just get on with it I thought.


And now I have access to the single bolt that holds the linkage together. There is no need to remove the heat shield.
And it’s off.


No turning back now.


Just hope I have the right size bush now. It seems a very tight fit.


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[Tractor Dave]

Heatshield has to come off to split the gear selector shaft. Changing the cup socket joint isn't a job to do in situ.

Ok, cheers. I thought that might be the case.

[SteveH]

Heatshield has to come off to split the gear selector shaft. Changing the cup socket joint isn't a job to do in situ.

[Tractor Dave]

I was shocked to find that the clutch is working nicely. Amazing.
This is what came out of the clutch line when bled. Those black bits are some sort of mould!


So, I went to replace the gear linkage and the ball joint popped off. The gaiter has a hole in it and the joint is a bit loose. I do have one of Alex’s bushes but not sure how easy this is going to be whilst it’s on the car. Has anyone done this job? Can it be done in situ?


Removing the linkage is going to be exhaust off I fear.

So, not feeling inclined to go down that route today, I thought I would make up my oil cooler bracket.


Lunchtime.


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