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My Coupe project

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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    The rear tie rods have cleaned up nicely.



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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    And I forgot to say. Been taking it easy last few days as I had a little accident with the angle grinder and took a chunk out of my finger. Ouch


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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    I needed access to the jacking points which needed a clean so dropped her onto axle stands.


    Pretty much all the cleaning is done now but it’s too cold to paint at the moment.

    I have been gathering parts to replace all the fuel lines under the car. Got the rubber pipe from Merlin who always give a top service.


    Eventually found rubbers for the rear ball joints that fitted. Third time lucky. I found cv grease works well on refurbished ball joints.


    Just need to paint everything underneath then I can start putting it all back together.


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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    All the fuel lines have been marked up and removed. I found the usual rust inside the rubber holders and it wasn’t far off failing.


    Now I have a bit more space to work on the rusty bits underneath.


    The rubbers were gross but cleaned up nicely.


    While it was sunny, I got some zinc primer on a few more parts in the poly tunnel. Hit 18c in there today!




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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    Originally posted by SteveH View Post
    I use the bolt to draw the two halves apart. If you place a suitable bar or socket behind the head of the bolt and unwind the bolt against it you can draw the splines apart. Still needs a whack to get it going.
    I did try that method but no joy. Just soaked it for a few days in pen oil and then gently tapping around the circumference for a while.


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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    The fuel filter came off after a fight.
    It’s an Audi filter and is dated 2001.
    Probably fitted when the car was last serviced by Audi.



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  • SteveH
    replied
    I use the bolt to draw the two halves apart. If you place a suitable bar or socket behind the head of the bolt and unwind the bolt against it you can draw the splines apart. Still needs a whack to get it going.

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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    Originally posted by Bowie69 View Post
    How hard was it to separate the two halves? Mine was a right pain......
    Yes, mine was a pain too

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    How hard was it to separate the two halves? Mine was a right pain......

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  • SteveH
    replied
    I bought the same one from memory from them. Initially had a febi bearing and it felt far too sloppy. These are much more like the OE version. Still not run my motor since fitting though!

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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    I got the bearing from Driveshaft Parts Limited. It was just under £30 delivered. I did buy a Swag one but it was complete rubbish.


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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    A break from cleaning the underneath.
    Split the prop shaft and fitted a new centre bearing. It was a good fit and seems sturdy like the original.



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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    Originally posted by tango123 View Post
    what will you use to protect/ coat it when you’ve finished cleaning all the old stuff off & rust?
    Zinc primer (Bilt)
    Epoxy paint (Novol protect)
    Seam sealer (Bilt)
    Epoxy underseal
    Clear wax on hoses, wishbones, fittings etc (Bilt)
    Should last well after that.
    The original stuff has done a good job considering its over 27years old. I found patches of surface rust here and there, especially around seams at the back, mounting points and brackets that hold cables and hoses. The subframe mounts were completely full of dried soil. I've blown them out and will treat them to some cavity wax. I haven't found any holes which is a bonus.

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  • tango123
    replied
    what will you use to protect/ coat it when you’ve finished cleaning all the old stuff off & rust?

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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    Nothing interesting to report on progress. I'm still working away underneath to get it all clean.
    I thought it might take a couple of days but I think it's more likely a couple of weeks

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