My Coupe project

[Tractor Dave]

The one you have is 130mm between the mounting holes and OEM is 133mm. So you mustn't have the same gap between the bolt and edge of the mounting hole on one of the sides - the missing 3mm..
Does that make sense?

Just been out and 're measured mine as you had me worried. The one that came off is an original Audi part and the hole centres are 130mm. There must be two versions. Mine is a late aby. What is yours?

[jp_paul]

I'm confused as the one I fitted was identical to what came off

The one you have is 130mm between the mounting holes and OEM is 133mm. So you mustn't have the same gap between the bolt and edge of the mounting hole on one of the sides - the missing 3mm..
Does that make sense?

[Tractor Dave]

I'm confused as the one I fitted was identical to what came off

[jp_paul]

A break from cleaning the underneath.
Split the prop shaft and fitted a new centre bearing. It was a good fit and seems sturdy like the original.

My new centre bearing arrived today from the same place. But I got the 133mm version (which is listed at the same £20 but I seem to have paid a couple of quid more after vat and p&p, £32.40). This one is the exact replica of the original's dimensions - it's the CB30133 part number rather than the CBA8 you've got. Just thought I'd mention for others future reference. I'm guessing you'll be using an alignment jig but if not, you might be 3mm out somewhere if going off originally installed position.

[Tractor Dave]

After epoxy for the seam sealer.

That's what I've decided.

[steve briance]

After epoxy for the seam sealer.

[Tractor Dave]

Are you using any seam sealer?

Yes. Forgot to mention that. I have an almost full tin of the Bilt Hamber stuff. Now, Should I put that on now or after epoxy? I will do some reading on the Bilt site and see what they recommend.

[B5NUT]

Are you using any seam sealer?

[Tractor Dave]

It’s still cold.
So I fired up the space heater and got painting.


Everything has received two coats of Bilt electrox.
The heat shields have been done with Fertan mm30. Nice stuff.


When the underside is dry I will put a coat of Novol Protect epoxy on. Then underseal.

It will be time to start rebuilding soon.


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[Tractor Dave]

I'll stick my shafts in the post Dave


Jase.

After cleaning underseal off the underside, it my next least favourite job

[Jaswan]

I'll stick my shafts in the post Dave


Jase.

[Tractor Dave]

On to the messy bit.



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[Bowie69]

Yep, copper wire is excellent for that, glad not to be alone!

[Tractor Dave]

I replaced the ball joint boot on my rear tie rods last year. Destroyed several boots trying to use the spring clip that is meant to hold them on. No idea how you are meant to fit them but i gave up in the end.

I stripped some copper core out of twin and earth cable and used a strand of that wrapped round the boot. Twisted the ends together and it nipped up nicely to seal.

Just a thought if you find yourself despairing.

I've used that method on my Ur joints and it works well. Planning the same here.
I bought a mixed pack of 14 rubber boots. I've found two that fit perfectly.

[steve briance]

I replaced the ball joint boot on my rear tie rods last year. Destroyed several boots trying to use the spring clip that is meant to hold them on. No idea how you are meant to fit them but i gave up in the end.

I stripped some copper core out of twin and earth cable and used a strand of that wrapped round the boot. Twisted the ends together and it nipped up nicely to seal.

Just a thought if you find yourself despairing.