A little something to keep me busy

[Tractor Dave]

Back end both sides is coming together nicely. I've been using Quattro World for torque settings. Some good info on there.




I have new abs cages. They are Truck Tek from Autodoc. Stainless steel and appear good quality. I coated them in Ceramic grease which is compatible with abs. Unfortunately, the new rear abs sensors sent by Autodoc have the wrong connectors so I will have to do some electrical work.




Before I put the brakes on, I've filled the inside of the cross member with good quality wax and sprayed all the nuts and bolts that usually go rusty with clear wax.





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[Tractor Dave]

So swapping over the abs sensors should have been a five minute job but took ages. I had to cut and swap the plugs over but I also swapped over the protector grommets as the new wire only had one pathetic one fitted.


The connectors are under the back seat.


The new wire is taped to the cut old one and pulled through from underneath.




I put some tessa tape over the joint.

Then onto the rear brakes. Splash plates are new from Tradition. Don't ask the price. Stainless screws holding it on. You have to cut down the ones next to the abs sensor otherwise they can crush it.

[sidrick]

Awesome work!

Got a link to that wheel bearing tool?

[Tractor Dave]

No link, sorry. I bought it from my vag mechanic friend and he got it through work years ago. I did search for one before I persuaded him to sell it to me (as I was borrowing it so often) but couldn't find one. He does the more modern stuff now so wasn't using it anymore.

[Tractor Dave]

Just back in from the garage after a couple of hours post dinner. I was hoping to get the back brakes on tonight but the caliper carriers are touching the discs (just). I checked that I had the correct discs and they are good. It appears that the powder coat on the hub carrier and caliper carrier is so thick that it puts the carrier out a millimetre or two and enough to make contact. I will have to clean the contact points down.
Impressed with the abs pin kit mind. Stainless steel and good quality boots.



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[Tractor Dave]

So I just cleaned the powder coating from the caliper carriers and everything fitted up nicely.




Then onto the front brakes. All went smoothly.


Big torque wrench for the main bolts and thread lock.

The little link pipes did not survive re entry so I had to make some new ones up.



I just bent them carefully by hand to the rough shape of the old ones.

Then onto bleeding brakes and slave. Using my pressure bleeder. Brilliant bit of kit.


And straight away there was a problem. I was expecting this as I've never managed to get these stainless connectors to seal.
So swapped it out for a brass one with copper olives and we are good.


Then onto the slave. I made a tool for bleeding the slave on the S2 a few years ago. There is no space for a conventional spanner.


And amazingly tue slave bled first go. These can be a right pita. Clutch pedal feels nice and light and returns nicely.

I will probably bleed everything again once all the bubbles have settled and the engine run.


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[Tractor Dave]

So today I cleaned up the prop shaft ready for re fitting. The joints are all good. I just cleaned them and put new grease in.


The flanges have been cleaned and a new gasket stuck on with red rtv.


I haven't actually put the prop back on as I'm waiting for new handbrake cable retaining springs. Access is much easier without the prop in.
So rear wheel arch liners got a scrub.


And fitted. Then boot got cleaned out and rear bumper fitted. I sprayed the bumper brackets with dry lube (plastic safe) and they slipped on really easily. Hook the top on and press in the bottom.


I certainly wasn't using the old bolts. Luckily, they are the same as S2 Avant ones and I happened to have some new old stock ones (as you do!).




Now I was thinking about the exhaust. These cats are from an S2 Coupe and don't really fit. Before I start cutting and welding, has anyone got a pair of S6 cats knocking about?


The cats from this car were stolen some time ago. Sad face.


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[B5NUT]

So how many more weeks now Dave, till you finish and you can get the UR on the ramp?

[Tractor Dave]

So how many more weeks now Dave, till you finish and you can get the UR on the ramp?

Not that much left to do on this one now. I'm waiting for the wings which are being painted local to me and should be ready this week. Only really the exhaust now that might hold things up. I measured the gap between the cats on the S6 and Coupe and we are about 3" out ,
If I can make a new mount, we might still be in with a chance of getting them to work.
The Ur should be done this week and maybe collect next week

[Tractor Dave]

Wheels back on today so I can torque the bolts that need doing when the car is on the ground.
Wheel bolts got a clean.




A little copper grease on the bolts and back side of the wheel where it meets the hub.


Then on to the front arb which needs to be on the ground to fit. I put a little silicone grease on the bush and jacked it into position.


Getting to the 19mm bolts behind the subframe is a pita. This is the only one that would fit past the engine mount and reach the bolt.


Then I got the big boys toys out to do the hub nuts.


These are also a pita to do.


And these even worse!


Anyway. Got there in the end.
Next airbox went back. One clip was broken and one completely missing!
Luckily, I had some spares from the cabbie I broke.




New air filter.


And new green mineral hydraulic fluid.


Phew. Busy day. Also fixed the broken rear tank undertray and brackets and fitted that.
Still waiting for handbrake cable springs. Highland Quattro, are you watching. Grin


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[Tractor Dave]

The injector cover was broken in half. It got hot melt glued back together and painted.


Onto the exhaust.
Here are the Coupe cats I have.


Not brilliant.


So they got cleaned up and treated.
A


The exhaust is worse.




So it got cleaned up and the cracks welded up.




My welding is a little agricultural but strong. Well I am Tractor Dave so it's what we should expect. Grin.


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[Fat Audi 80]

Great stuff, really good pictures and text. Thanks Dave!

[B5NUT]

The glue you used will it not start to melt again? The engine temps can get a little hot under the bonnet once the engine is switch off. Whenever I possibly can do I try to open the bonnet to let the heat escape. Just wondering if the hot melt will start to become a bit soggy even more so in the summer months.

Also what you repaired the exhaust what wire did you use with the tig stainless or normal steal. I need to repair the one on the TT as it has a similar crack near the backbox.

[Tractor Dave]

The glue you used will it not start to melt again? The engine temps can get a little hot under the bonnet once the engine is switch off. Whenever I possibly can do I try to open the bonnet to let the heat escape. Just wondering if the hot melt will start to become a bit soggy even more so in the summer months.

Also what you repaired the exhaust what wire did you use with the tig stainless or normal steal. I need to repair the one on the TT as it has a similar crack near the backbox.

When I say hot melt, I meant I melted it using a soldering iron on the underside of the crack. I've found this method really successful on hard plastic and really strong.

Just normal wire in the mig. Audi exhausts are a strange mix of stainless steel and mild steel welded together. The pipes are mild and the boxes stainless and heat shields mild. I've welded them before and the repair hasn't rusted any quicker than normal.

[Tractor Dave]

Great stuff, really good pictures and text. Thanks Dave!

Cheers. Feedback always appreciated